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I felt it was much easier to navigate when on mobile than using the browser on my phone. Also gave me alerts when someone replied to a thread I was following or sent a PM iirc. I liked using Tapatalk

I bought some of the “chips” from southern shine media and I would not get them again. If you think pins are a pia to deal with just wait till try those… they are small and light enough to get stuck in a drop of water and they cling to everything. I’m sure IV already lost a crap load of them. They also get stuck in towels and everything so much easier. They do clean at least as well as pins, and are slightly cheaper (the reason I bought them when I lost pins during a move to a new house), but totally not worth the extra trouble imo. I will be buying some more pins when I need to clean some rifle brass more than likely

Hmm I will try some of these suggestions also before ditching aa7. I have only used cci spp and some S&B spp. I have both srp and spmp I will a try even though I don’t have any poppel holes which sounds like is a big cause of the unburnt powder.

I have been using AA7 for about 10k rounds now. I’m thinking of going back to HS-6 however because AA7 is just way too dirty for me. Leaves unburnt powder EVERYWHERE in the gun and gums everything and needs to be cleaned way more often that I would ever think it should otherwise it slows down my slide too much (this starts around 150-200 rounds and is unbearable by 4-500 rounds). I tried hs-6 before and remember it felt a little harsher, but under the timer I don’t remember feeling much difference. Will possibly load up some test rounds this weekend to try. Or if anyone has any suggestions for making the aa7 shoot a little cleaner I’ll take any suggestions I can get. shooting 9.7gr 124JHP PD V1 getting around 173 PF out of my Honcho. It’s a great feeling, flat shooting round, but is just getting too dirty for me and seems to be a common consensus from multiple other local shooters.

Bought a brand new Lee 223 die set. The resizing die fixed everything it seems. Out of a couple hundred resized cases all but 2-5% or less of one single head stamp passed gauge (less than 1% total). This is much less variability than I was seeing before with my RCBS SB die, so I’m going to attribute it to the die at this point.

You are correct, we are talking about plinking 223 ammo with 55gr FMJ bullets. Nothing precision about this, just for fun. I have never measured shoulder bump on my 223 ammo. I only gauge, and if it passes the gauge it’s good to go for my use. I guess I’m just trying to figure out what kind of variance is ok for these so I don’t have to worry about shooting the ammo in multiple guns. And I know some people will say it should be to totally fine and others will say they’re too dangerous if they don’t fit the gauge. IV just never had a great understanding of the 223 headspacing since I’m mostly a pistol shooter but I do know it can be a big deal with out of battery discharges and what not so I’m just trying to understand what kind of variance is ok, or if I need to sort by headstamps that all size the same just to be on the safe side. Just seems a little crazy to me to have to do that though since I know all these commercial guys sure as hell aren’t doing that when they’re cranking away. Just a lot of work for plinking loads imo.

Why do you only use the ones that fail high and not low? I have a couple handfuls of brass that fail low by the smallest margin that your comment is making me thinking again about using them. I found with my small base die my press requires zero cam over, otherwise brass comes in under the lower step. Right now I have it set to barely touch the shell plate, but no cam over at all which seems odd as usually I need a slight cam over with every single other caliber/brand of brass I load for. But again, then I run into problems when I have it.

I am talking about the “headspace” steps at the top of the case or shoulder dimension to the base of the case shown below. Some will come in below bottom shelf on the inside of the gauge, while others are taller than the outside step. I am only resizing and depriming here. My process is to resize, trim, swage primer pockets, retumble, then load. So the only process I’m trying to accomplish in this step is sizing. Trimming and swaging are done off the press with giraud tri way trimmer and the dillon bench top swager which is why I’m only doing the sizing right now since all other processes required aren’t done on the press. Hope this clears it up a little, guess I didn’t do a good job of explaining my set up in my OP, sorry about that.

Interesting, I will try to add a couple of the extra powder I have, I never thought about that before. I have noticed I get different results with a full vs empty shell plate though.

I’m using One Shot and I don’t think I’m using too much, but I will try a little less and see if that helps, thanks.

Sorry, should have mentioned, I’m running this on a Dillon 750

Hello all, I’m going to start this by saying I’m feeling like quite the newbie right now and I'm looking for a little help. I used to load a lot of 223 but haven’t in many years. I went to set up my sizing die (RCBS SB die) and I’m having a big variation is sizing between headstamps. I’ll get it set right so that it will properly size certain headstamps but then some are over and others are under the steps in my RCBS case gauge. I don’t ever remember needing to sort by headstamp that in depth to load 223 so what am I missing here? I used to use a Lee die but the threads stripped and will no longer hold the recapping pin in place so I’m stuck with my RCBS unless I order a new die. I gauged some of my previously loaded ammo and it all falls into the correct place in my case gauge so I know I used to be able to do, but can’t get it right now haha. Any help is greatly appreciated.

One drill I always come back to is “designated target” by Ben Stoeger. I usually one piece of steel as my designated target, and 3 other targets at varying distances. I have my designated target one far side of the range and then targets spread all the way to the other side of the range, usually about a 120° angle between the farthest targets. Start with shooting the steel, then the first paper, then stew, second paper, steel, third paper, and finish on steel. This works transitions, throttle control, and accuracy for me (I usually use a mini popper at ~15 yards for designated target). I also get feedback from everyone I practice with that it is one their favorite drills also.

I love the way my honcho shoots, I would sure as hell enjoy trying one with some poppels though!

I ended up grabbing an Everglades also. Picked up about 0.2 seconds on my draw actually. Haven't used it a ton, but I am thoroughly enjoying the holster so far. Pretty good fit with the honcho, but I think it has about as much side to side movement as the DAA when locked so I’m not super pleased with the final fit of the gun, but it’s not terrible. Still happy I bought it so far. Much easier to lock, unlock, and draw from. My biggest problem with the DAA is that it would sometimes get stuck when trying to draw or holster the gun but I don’t get any of that with the Everglades.

I load pistol in multiple passes for one major reason: consistency when actually loading (putting powder and bullets together in cases). When I process my brass before I do this, I get a much more consistent loading experience. Everything is resized and swaged, so there is no extra hard handle pull on some buldged and blown out case, and there is no handle pull difference in a crimped or uncrimped case. And there is also one less thing to pay attention to, I don’t need to worry if a primer got sucked back into the case or not. Just need to worry about correct powder drops and bullets sitting in the cases correctly. Because I’m loading 9 major now this is even more important. I want my oal, powder drop (and no powder spillage), crimp etc to all be as similar as possible. Taking out the sizing and swaging operations while loading helps make this easier for me. My goal for reloading is to make the best possible ammo I can and IV found a process to help me get there. It’s not the most efficient, and it doesn’t work for everyone.

I was worried at first that water would get stuck in the primers as well. Iv done probably 10+ 5 gallon buckets this way with no problems though. Although, I have enough brass that it sits for a while before it gets resized/deprimed and if I have any extra gehumidifier packs/Silica gel packs sitting around I will toss them in the bucket in the bucket with the brass (I’m sure this does nothing though as IV never had one change color to “wet” after tons of loads in a row) , then it sits again before it gets loaded so at that point there is especially no water in it since I process and load in separate steps. To test at the beginning, I dried for 2 hours in the dehydrator, then deprimed a couple and didn’t see any water in them. So it works for me, but if have to wash and load right away, you might get a different result? Who knows. Just figured I’d share my process. For those that are “depriming before washing” are you using a dedicated machine like the rollsizer.com one? Or you just simply dry tumble to remove dirt then process and wet tumble before loading?

Could you do multiple batches in a row? Or would the dry media need to dry out for a bit? I also will separate the media and use a dehydrator. Not for as long as you however, only about 2 hours, never had a problem with wet ammo *knock on wood* but it comes out very dry, and that’s with primers still in the cases.

Aa7 and SWMP are the same recipe but SW is produced over seas (probably why you can’t find it now) and AA7 is produced stateside. Everything I have heard is that they are within a tenth or two of each other for the most part. SW is known to have more variance between batches though from what I have seen. Aa7 has been consistent for me so far though over 2 different batches

Anyone have a comparison of the v2 vs RMR profile? IV been shooting the PD v1 124 for 9major all of last year and I love them, but with the price difference between PD and RMR at the moment I realized I could save a couple hundred dollars over the course of the year so decided to order some RMR to try. Trying to minimize load development if anyone has gone through the process already. Based on Brookes test, the V1 and V2 are very similar in powder charge and PF result so V2 to RMR should be able to see a correlation?

I use two 45acp/40 cal 100 round ammo boxes. I dump cases that need to be sorted into them (most of them will end up case mouth up) first, I then check the inside of the case for the stepped cases, then I use the second ammo box to flip the cases over and check headstamps. This is the fastest way IV found to do it since they’re all lined up and you can go through 100 cases at a time.

I spoke with Kevin on the phone last night. The issues with the dies/disks is not due to bad/weak steel but the way he explained it to me is that the offset between the gearbox and the base of the rollsizer causes extra pressure on the disk and the brass causing it to wear that grove in. He said it was not a problem with the steel and the disks are in spec. This is exactly what was copied above. I don’t have an email to copy like above however. He also said the groove in the brass is normal, and it often happens with excessively buldged brass which mimics the the extra pressure being applied to every piece of brass with the offset base causing the groove on every piece of brass we are seeing on some of our machines. He said there should be no problem to use the brass. Hope that helps alleviate at least some concerns

IV had my plate for a little while. I like it on my 1050 with the DAA case defector, it works amazing, and I think IV only had 1-2 upside down in a couple thousand rounds which is much better than the original Dillon plate. However, I did not like it in my 650 case feeder without the deflector plate. Caused so so many jams where the cases drops into the feed tube. Not sure if this was due to over loading or what, but I went back to my original Dillon for the 650 case feeder as it’s running my rollsizer and I don’t want to stand there and load brass so often. I think it was mostly when two cases got stacked on top of each other and the first one falls, but the second one gets caught.

I emailed him on Thursday, still haven’t heard back yet sadly. My brass and fired brass look the same as yours. I’m hoping it won’t cause a problem with brass life or brass integrity because IV ran a crap ton through mine in the 3 months IV had it. Almost all my brass actually….

I agree with this. Some of the guys known to be the fastest (like Christian Sailer) have a slower draw than some others to make sure they have a proper grip on the gun. Check out some stage videos of the top guys and you will see this, like Christians Instagram. As xray said, you make up much more time in other areas like in your movement and transitions than some time with a draw that may lead to needing to readjust your grip or a bad grip that causes worse hits.