RangerMcFadden

Were you shooting it on purpose?

I don’t know his volumes but I sent him a 929 and a really messed up 66 and got them both back in under 2 weeks.

A photo, even if a suboptimal angle would be helpful. The parts are case hardened and shouldn’t be flaking off. But I doubt that’s the case. It can be a worn with extreme use or someone could have removed the case hardening not knowing why it’s there. But flaking, I’m not so sure.

I have been having shaving issues but I’m buying one of those uniquetek .358 funnels later today to try and fix that issue. But even with shaving I’ve seen no performance drop off. Taper crimp the 160 gr (with lube grove) on both 38 and 9mm. No issues with either. I ran an experiment and shot 5 357s with one of my tapered 38s in the 6th chamber. After shooting the COAL didn’t change. Some will roll crimp them to help with reload. I don’t think either is wrong. The gun will tell you want works best.

I would also like to +1 what Mike said. 160s work all the time so 158s will too. But 158s have crummy profiles (re: lots are flat points).

I’ve gone from full on “you’re gonna split your brass” blunderbuss to no bell at all and every quarter turn of the die in between. Same difference. I don’t think my Dillon dies/funnel are up to the task of loading 358 bullets. Thankfully, with covid and living in an arctic state, I’ll have plenty of time to throw money at this problem until it goes away before next season.

I’m confused. Aren’t 929s supposed to headspace off the moon? I mean, I paid someone to lengthen the chambers!

I appreciate that you’re the sole reviewer of the funnel. Haha. I’m having a hell of a time shaving my coatings. To be clear you 1.) size 2.) Lee neck expand 3.) powder drop 4.) seat 5.) crimp?

I’ve been looking at my match footage and have found my movement to be lacking (I.e. slow). Previously I’ve justified my speed by claiming that I’m reloading but now I don’t know if that holds water. When I’m leaving a position (and a reload is required) I’ll start moving while reloading and, once complete, I’ll run full tilt until I need to slow down to get in position. But is that the best way? Should I always run full tilt and finish up the reload at the next position? The timer will be the best judge but I’m curious as to y’all’s thoughts.

Thank you both. I thought that there was something specific about the R8 that made porting make less sense.

I know you and Alec have gone over ports and comps like 50 times, but could you explain it for a 51st time? Why wouldn’t porting work on an R8 specifically?

Iowa July 17/18/19 https://practiscore.com/2020-big-dawg-steel-match-1/register

Any Revos shooting the Big Dawg Steel match? I’ve seen it mentioned on this board before but I’m not sure if it’s a ‘thing’ or not. I’m trying to shoot some good matches now that all of mine are cancelled or postponed.

I think making snub nose a division would have been a mistake. I think making it a special recognition category was an excellent compromise. Would a “major PF” recognition for regionals/IRC end this debate? As, MWP said, we need shooters not rules. And I doubt adding a new division/rule will bring the crowds out.

I know it was probably a very hard decision by the BOD but I'm very bummed. However, unlike the "World Series" or "Miss Universe" pageant, the IRC is truly an international competition. As such, I'm glad the BOD made the decision now so that our international friends didn't get burned when booking flights, hotels, and coordinating their revos.

I’m a but confused here. You want to take a match GP100 chambered in 10 mm auto and have someone ream it out to 10 magnum? The old AMT cartridge? If so why wouldn’t you just buy a 41 or 44 magnum? I don’t know if the cylinder is even long enough to accommodate the 10 mm magnum. If you want a custom barrel MoJo and Pinnacle are the two Revo shop that come to mind. Pinnacle is probably more up your alley if you’re looking for a custom barrel with ports or a comp. There are plenty of optics mounts but they require removal of the rear sight to use the holes present in the back strap. I don’t run anything on any of mine so I’m not a leading authority on mounts; I might be unaware of a product that works for you. I don’t know what your question regarding shims are but shimming is done as needed. There are also lots of places to potentially shim on a revolver.

I got some DAA stainless moonclips. Much easier to remove however I did notice that one of the two 0.040 moon clips is drastically less magnetic. Is that a thing? Both 0.037s are perfect.

Thanks everyone.

I got a pack of DAA moonclip holders however it seems that the magnet is a bit too strong for me. I suppose I could hit the gym more often but the moon lips are held so strongly that they pull the belt (and my pants) along for the ride. Is there anything I can do to take it down a notch? Maybe some tape or moleskin on top of the posts? Right now I’m using TK blued moonclips, would stainless be a better option? Thanks.

Agreed. You’ll certainly be real sloppy the first few reps but once you know you can do something in 2 seconds when it used to take 3, you can smoothing things out. Don’t be discouraged by how sloppy those first few runs are.

You might find moons fall in easier if your gun pointed down more and less angled. I know that since you’re doing a strong hand reload you need to “get over” the grip and you point the muzzle to your left so you have more of a straight line your hand can travel from your server to your cylinder. However, this forces you to spend more time aligning the moon with x, y, and z coordinates. Since you’re loading at such an angle you it looks like you can’t just let the moons fall it. If you have the gun more or less straight up and down you’ll only need to worry about the x, y coordinates in aligning the moon. Beyond specific pointers it may be helpful for you to break down and isolate skills on your reload. When I was working on my reload I noticed my hand was slow going to the speed loaders so I just practiced moving my hand as quickly as a could going from the gun to my loader.

Same for me but I checked last night and they were working. Looks like the column on the main page on the right side is also glitchy.

In the 2017 USPSA equipment survey, titegroup was the most popular powder followed by N320, then clays. If you like titegroup there’s really no reason to change. I use N320 because it meters well and has worked great. I’m not into reloading so I don’t get off experimenting for experimenting sake so I’ve stuck to what works. Not trying to be on a high horse but I find my time is better spent practicing than getting my Goldilocks load discovered. Of course YMMV and if you genuinely enjoy the reloading aspect of the hobby, go for it and experiment. Changing projectiles might be a worth while if you want to explore load development further if looking for a “softer” recoil or a different recoil “profile”.

Of the Burkett reload? I’m sure. Of what I specifically do? Not that I know of. I came up with it myself buts it’s not a terribly original idea. I can take a video but I don’t have any accounts I can post it on. If you PM me your number I can make one and text it to you once I’m done with my “essential” work.

I think that’s reasonable. I practice “Burkett” reloads which I take the empty gun and at the buzzer, open the cylinder, hit the extractor to remove the hypothetical empty brass and then place a speed loader in the chamber but not pressing it so the rounds load. I can do that right now at 1.3 sec. I set the timer to do 40 reps which is a bit over 5 minutes. Shooting Classic I’d spend more time picking up rounds off the floor than I would actually practicing so this “Burkett” is a compromise on reload training. I do the full reload when I go into my 6-reload-6 portion of the night.