regor

1) Does this happen with all magazines? My first instinct for not locking back and feeding properly is a mag problem, not a gun problem. Are the mags original (i.e. no custom followers like Grams or CZ Custom, or basepads that might not be designed for the 14 rounders for the compact line)? Take the slide off and insert each magazine empty. Do the followers push up on the slide release? If not then something is wrong with the (a) the follower, (b) the magazine not getting inserted enough. Since you are having feeding issues (b) seems more likely. If you press down the mag release, can you push the magazine up further? If so, you probably have an issue with the mag release. Maybe it's worn down and locking in the magazines just a little too low. If not, and you have an aftermarket base plate on, swap it to the original factory one and see if the issue persists. 2) Can you manually push the slide release up and get it to lock? There is a little notch in the slide on the left side where the nub from the slide stop is supposed to lock in. If you sanded that area or the nub too aggressively the slide release nub might be slipping out of the notch. This would explain no lock back but not feeding issues. I don't think the trigger bar would cause this. Messing up those bumps might mess up things with the trigger but I don't think the bar interacts with the magazine/slide stop.

Harbor Freight has a cheap one. Very useful for lighting charcoal without lighter fluid (and faster) on the high setting and drying your gun out after a rainy match (after removing the plastic bits, of course) on the low setting. https://www.harborfreight.com/1500-watt-dual-temperature-heat-gun-572-1112-96289.html

Is 2.2.3.4 changed for 2019? I don't know why hooking your foot under a wall in the way you did would be legal in the first place unless it is a wall that you are allowed to shoot under. Walls extend to the ground even if the physical prop does not; if you can't shoot under it because it is "solid", why should you be able to use that opening as support? If that opening exists when you aren't trying to shoot through it then we have an inconsistent application of existence. If it is closed at all times then that's definitely not a legal move...

Is that still in the works or was the request rejected? If so, what was the rational behind it?

Rowdyb, best coincidence ever that you made this comment today. I was cleaning up the magwell on my SP-01 tactical and when I went to test everything was still working before putting the grips back on I noticed my DA pull stopped working unless I manually brought the hammer back a little (bringing it back all the way and I got three clicks instead of the normal two from half cock and full cock). I thought it was something with the sear cage that I had messed up when fiddling with the hammer strut, but then I remembered that I had read your comment here today and sure enough, the overtravel screw had walked out FROM WHERE I LOCTITED TWO NIGHTS AGO. You saved me a panic attack and possibly from having to DNS my match this weekend. No longer have an over travel screw in

I think the issue is that while everyone here knows it is a competition gun, there are a ton of people who buy Shadow 2s as just range toys and would complain to CZ if they got a brand new gun that was having consistent light strikes with *ammo X* because CZ shipped it with all the highly tuned parts. As much as we would love to think that CZ caters just to us they have to keep the general consumer market happy and their brand in a positive light from that perspective. Now, considering the Shadow 2 is a gun tailored for Production, ideally CZ should ship it with at least a couple alternatives to the factory hammer/recoil springs with a disclaimer that says something like, "these are intended for competition use only and may result in reliability issues", kind of like how the TSO/CM come with slide stop pins that don't allow slide lock.

@matir, for reference, it took me about 4 hours to do a full strip, polish, and install of the CGW pro package in my SP-01 tactical (decocker model, so a little more complicated from my understanding) with no prior experience. It's really no more daunting than building an AR with roll pins. A basic pin punch set and a heavier hammer (for getting out the staked hammer pins) is all you really need. If you're looking for a quick improvement, swap the factory hammer spring for the CGW 11.5# one. It will drop the DA pull weight substantially and has reliably ignited primers for me on everything except Tulammo.

@Mercs, yes, this was my first time doing this. I was nervous about it but I love doing my own work on my guns and I really wanted to do this myself. I just took it super slow at first, my first round of cuts was very conservative, second round I was much more confident and took a lot more off. I'm happy with how it turned out except for the two bugger marks from the dremel bit walking when I was using it at a weird angle but I suspect it will get plenty scratched up once I start using it in matches, so I'm not too worried. @Heatstroke18, sorry for the super late reply, I just noticed your reply lost in between the two picture heavy comments. I haven't actually installed an extension yet. I think I'm going to go with an MOA Precision kit. My understanding is the Franchis can use Benelli M2 kits, but I'd rather stick with something that was made for it. Not sure if I'll go +6 or +7. My Affinity is a 28" btw. https://moaprecisionllc.com/product/magazine-extension-deluxe-kit-franchi-affinity/#configuration

I had issues with the 11.5# HS with Tulammo, but other than that it has eaten everything fine (except for a few of my first hand loads, which was more likely an issue with my seating depth since it hasn't happened since).

Does anyone know which height Dawson front sight would replace the suppressor ready SP-01 Tactical front sight?

As someone who just started this fall and in production: 6 mags is definitely the minimum (ideally 7 incase a mag goes down during a match). 5 on the belt and one in the gun to start. You may run into stages where in order to have a smooth stage plan you need to drop a mag after 2-4 shots, which might mean you run out of rounds before the end of COF. I have only finished on my 6th mag in one or two stages, but I'm glad I had it and I might add another pouch just for redundancy in case I need to drop a malfunctioning mag at some point or if the MD throws in a stage that's an unloaded start and requires low round count reloads. As someone else has mentioned, a mag brush is a helpful thing to have in your bag, especially if your local ranges tend to be muddy or sandy/dust. Here's the one I got after my first match and just in time for my second match, where several mags took nose dives into mud. https://www.shootersconnectionstore.com/Arredondo-Mag-Brush-P97.aspx For a timer, the Pocketpro II is probably what you will see most often at matches and a good timer is essential to dry fire practice, which will be one of the best ways to improve early on (I've seen huge gains since starting a regular schedule). https://www.amazon.com/Pocket-Pro-Timer-II-CEI001/dp/B00LAF7GSI Production will help you get a great feel for stage planning. Plan your reload points poorly and you'll get stuck doing a lot of standing reloads. Don't worry too much about your gear at this point, I promise your gear isn't going to be what's holding you back

It's a nice little perk to offset the smaller/lighter pistol. I'm trying to track down a P-01 for appendix carry and will likely run it in Limited minor for practice with the stock 14 rounder to start and the 17 rounders from there since that's what I'd carry as backup anyways.

Looks good, will probably give it a shot myself. The finish is the same thing keeping me back on the undercut. Maybe once I get enough holster wear to pass it off as character I'll give it a go. Maybe ours will even shoot against each other up her in the PNW

@anonymouscuban one nice thing about running the P01 is you can run it with SP01 mags since they are compatible with the P01. They will stick out from the grip a bit, giving you the feel of reloading a magazine with an extension but while still fitting in the Production box. Not my picture but this will give you an idea. Those are the 18 round SP01 mags that come from the factory, which might not fit in the box depending on what sights you have, but the Mec Gar 17 rounders should fit anything (they fit even with my suppressor ready model SP01)

Mercs, no, I never figured out how to remove it and I was never able to get in touch with Franchi customer support about it. As best I can tell it's not designed to come out, which is odd because these newer models with the larger bolt release and charging handle are clearly designed to cater towards the competition crowd. I ended up just taping it in against the inside of the receiver, which worked fine. I just needed extra care when working on the corner where the bolt release is to make sure I didn't unintentionally grind down the bit that retains the shells in the magazine tube. I've done two rounds of rough dremel work and some light sanding to smooth major bumps and it's made a big difference. Below is where I'm at currently, with the TTI lifter installed. I'm still deciding if I should go back for a third round of cuts or if I should just go in and smooth everything out and give it a good polish. I don't have a ton more room to cut down on the left side before I start risking cutting too much away for the bolt release roll pin to really hold in; I guess I could do just the part in front of the roll pin. I'm also apprehensive about cutting further forward because I'm barely touching the threads at the top of the arc (you can just make it out in the second and third pictures) and want to avoid messing up the threads, but I still can't consistently get the second shell in without having to push my thumb in a little, so I may need to work on that area a little bit more. If you cut a sufficient amount away you will need to trim the roll pin to keep it from blocking the bolt from cycling. I didn't need to after my first round of cuts but I did on the second. I just switched my dremel bit to a flat disc and ground it down bit by bit and then rounded the edges and tapped it back in, repeating until the bolt would cycle when the pin was flush. I also noticed that the dremel bit liked to get sucked into the roll pin hole when cutting. You can see the little dip there on mine. It's not a functional issue since it's shallow enough for my thumb to glide right over, but if you care about it looking pretty you'll want to be careful in that area.

I just noticed that Appendix D4 - Production Division of the 2019 USPSA rule book says: I'm not sure if this is new to 2019 or if it was added. I know the internal markings allowed is new (or at least clarified), and I vaguely recall it previously being something along the mouth having to be withing some some measurement of the internal dimensions, so I think this is a change as well? In either case has anyone done this with an SP-01 and could post results or comment on whether it helped with reloads? I'm toying with the idea of maybe doing this and undercutting the trigger guard while I'm at it. Thoughts?

I'm guessing that's just from a big chunk of people switching to Federal Syntech 150s. 147s are down 7% from last year while 150s went from not listed to 14%. 115s and 124/125 stayed steady and took a dip.

Were companies just not offering improved parts over factory for DA/SAs or did the field just need a good shooter to break away from the hive mind? I just started this year, but of the ~10 other Production shooters I have been in squads with, I can only recall one that was not a DA/SA (a Glock). I remember one guy running a Beretta and everyone else is running a CZ or Tanfoglio. But almost everyone running a DA/SA has also had some amount of internal work done. If those parts weren't available before I can absolutely see why people would be reluctant to go DA/SA.

I think the merit of draw and one shot is to push yourself to the absolute edge of what you can do, bordering on losing control, so then you can come back a few steps and shoot comfortably there. If I can shave .1 seconds from buzzer to hand on grip and .25 seconds from grip to gun up and on target, then I have given myself a ton of extra room to focus on getting a solid grip and good sight alignment. Before I started a regimented dry fire schedule if I did draw and one shot drills and went as fast as possible the best I could do was around 1.25 with horrible accuracy. After a month of 3-4x/week dry fire with 5-10 reps warming up and getting progressively faster and then 10-15 reps pushing the par time, I got that down to consistently low 0.9s in live fire with maybe 10% in the high 0.8s. Accuracy is still poor at that speed, but now 1.2s and even 1.1s are plenty comfortable and controlled.

If it's allowed, could anyone post the survey results for those who don't receive the magazine? Didn't realize it was available online without the magazine subscription. Link to first page of survey found in other topic: https://uspsa.org/magazine/view//2019-00#page=35

My first match was in October and I got put in the local super squad. I impressed them all with... 20 mikes and a 0% classifier. It was a rude awakening for skills that are rarely practiced by the casual shooter (guess which of those two stages were SHO/WHO) Just under 50% of the Production winner (M), and 30% of overall (PCC A, since moved to M). Not horrible, but I've improved a ton since then, especially in the last month or so since committing to a 3x per week dry fire schedule. My goal is to get to B class by Area 1 in June.

As an additional data point, out of my TSO (5.23"), Federal 165gr RTP chronoed at 1146, making it 189PF.

I don't clean unless it was raining, in which case I'll break everything down, hit it with a heat gun to get rid of any water, wipe out any major build up, run a couple wet patches through the barrel, then oil/grease moving parts and contact points. I usually break down my mags after a match and run a brush through them to knock out any sand/dirt/rocks that got in. I also just wipe off the followers and will occasionally oil the springs. The range I practice at has a gravel base so I don't worry about it too much after practice session, but some of the ranges I go to matches at have sand or dirt bases and Production gives it lot of opportunities to clog mags up. I find this moderately frequent light maintenance keeps it in a pretty consistent condition. It's never pristine but it never gets filthy and it gives me. I'm sure it could truck through quite a bit of build up but why push that boundary?

If you really wanted to wear some sort of cleat, turf cleats are probably the way to go, but they are designed very similar to trail shoes in terms of stud design. I would personally avoid anything with metal because on any hard surface the metal bits will be the only parts touching which makes it very easy to slip. Metal is designed for very soft turf.

Looks like the 2019 CZ catalog came out in the last few days and they seem to have dropped quite a few products from their line up. Notably the P-01 (non-Omega model) and the entire SP-01 line except for the SP-01 Shadow . I'm really surprised by this, both seem very popular, especially the P-01, which is impossible to find in stock. https://www.czub.cz/CZUB_2019_ENG/68-69/index.html I've seen a few threads on other forums discussing this and some have suggested that this is just the European lineup (it is on the Czech CZ site and lists some Euro cartridges that AFAIK are not offered in the US, like 9x21) and the US will have additional offerings. I really hope that is the case because I've been looking for a P-01 but if they are really dropping it I'll have to start scouring used options. Anyone know any more details?