Search the Community
Showing results for tags 'timing'.
Found 4 results
Hey there, I have a small problem with my shadow. If I pull the DA slowly, the hammer will not fall, upon further inspection the sear does not lift high enough and thats what is holding it back. the Hammer travels rearwards just far enough to set the sa claws. If I manually and slowly pull the hammer back, there is interference between the hammer and sear in both DA and SA. It seems like the sear never lifts high enough. the trigger is hitting against the frame (most rearward position) and if i wiggle the trigger or safety, the hammer will fall. A little history on the gun itself: Bought it used with supposedly low (1000) roundcount and I have put ~15k rounds on it plus tons of dryfire -85C trigger - No overtravel screw (it fell out) -11.5lb mainspring (tried 13lb as well) -11lb recoil spring (tried 13lb as well) -light deburing / polishing -grips and sights Any help will be greatly appreciated thanks! John.
I was fitting a pre-b disconnector in my S2, spent a lot of time as the finish was very rough. There was a burr on the face of one wing where it contacts the trigger bar amd one on the bottom of one wing. I filed the burrs off but not sure if that has anything to do with my issues. First the hammer would not drop in DA, so I just filed a very slight angle on the leading edge of the bottom of the wings. This would now allow the hammer to drop. I then noticed the hammer would catch the half cock when I pull the trigger quickly in DA. I still don't have the cz timing figured out 100%, can anyone help? Ps. I temporarily removed it so I could shoot a match but I will try again soon. Thanks
I recently acquired a S&W 625 .45acp revolver. I'm sure it was owned by a competitive shooter because the trigger has a stop installed on the rear surface and there is a ball detent in the top of the crane which securely locks the cylinder in place. The problem is when the trigger is pulled quickly for rapid fire the cylinder often jumps two chambers rather than just one. It cycles normally in slow fire and single action. Upon initial examination I determined the hammer block had been removed. I understand this is a common but by no means safe procedure to speed up the action of the revolver. I replaced the hammer block but it made no difference to the skipping problem when in rapid fire. All this testing has been done with a empty pistol. I'm not about to risk life and limb with a mistimed revolver. Returning it to S&W is an option but I'm comfortable replacing parts on the gun if I know where to start.