SteelCityShooter

As noted above I recently bought a new Metal Frame M&P9 2.0. When I went to install an Apex sear, sear spring and striker block and removed the sear block from the frame and took out the factory sear, under it was just a spring, no plunger. I called S&W customer service and they had me send the gun back to them for inspection and I just got it back with a note saying it functioned just fine. When I just took out the sear block, same thing, just a spring under the sear, no plunger. The spring does seem to be a bit longer than the others I've seen. Is this a new design? All of my previous M&P 1.0 and 2.0 pistols had a small plunger over the sear spring but not this one. What's going on?

I've been using Hornady "One Shot Gun Cleaner and Lube" (as above, NOT the case lube) on my rimfire guns. I have a MkIV with two different barrel/receivers/bolt assemblies and a lightly modified 10/22 and the One shot has them running flawlessly. It leaves an effective dry film of lube which keeps the guns clean and avoids the viscous drag of liquid oils and grease. I try to avoid ammo issues by sticking to CCI mini-mags.

Just got one and like it fine. It feels good and the weight is exactly the same as my 5" M&P9 2.0 CORE. I've been to the range once with it and it worked perfectly but more to come. The factory trigger pull is better than other stock M&P's I've seen but not as good as my 5" with an Apex sear and striker block. Next is an Apex kit and my Holosun HS507c.

About twice a year I "deep clean" my M&P 2.0 but I don't strip the receiver. I use Birchwood Casey "Gun Scrubber - Synthetic Safe" to hoseout the receiver and let the excess drain onto a paper towel. That flushes out all of the accumulated grime and old lube leaving everything spotless but bone dry. I see no benefit to removing the internals as the Gun Scrubber does such a thorough job. Then I relube the internals with Breakfree CLP and lube the slide and receiver rails with Brian Enos' "Slide-Glide" light grease. The gun has run flawlessly for thousands of rounds.

If they have a contact phone number, call it. A direct phone call is less likely to be ignored than a text or e-mail,

The OEM trigger pull on the M&P2.0 Metal Frame is certainly better than the original M&P 1.0 and a bit better than the factory pull on the standard 2.0. However, my older 5" M&P9 2.0 is used for competition so the trigger pull is important and the Apex parts made a huge improvement. I want the same improvement in my Metal Frame.

I just purchased an M&P9 2.0 Metal Frame and was wondering if anyone has installed the Apex sear/sear spring and strike block/spring from the polymer 2.0 guns in one of them. Did they work properly? I have those Apex parts I removed from a 2.0 Compact before I sold it and wanted to install them in my new Metal Frame but wanted to check that there is no problem doing so. I called Apex and they were hesitant to give their approval as they haven't done a lot of testing. That may be their lawyers more than the techies talking. I also called S&W and was told the internals are identical in the Metal Frame and polymer frame guns and my visual inspection says this is correct so the Apex parts should work fine, right? Finally I called Timney to ask if their M&P triggers also worked in the Metal Frames and was told they work in any M&P which says there is no difference. Am I missing anything?

I also started with the Ruger PC Carbine and later splurged on a GMR-15. I still have the Ruger and like it alot. I'm left handed and there are two left-handed safety options: 1) Tactical Innovations sells a mirror image safety button that installs easily and gives a true left-handed safety and 2) Taccom sells an ambidextrous safety that replaces the original button with dual sided levers. Both work well. My Ruger has been upgraded slowly with TandemKross trigger group pins and their extended bolt hold open lever, a Taccom compensator and carbon fiber handguard and their rear sight replacement Picatinny rail with a Holosun HS-512 red dot. Get the Ruger and enjoy!

I ran into a few of these with a MAXXTech headstamp. I was lucky the decapping rod in my XL650 hit the ledge and wouldn't let me complete the stroke so I knew something was wrong. I've kept a couple as curiosities but discarded the others. I will not load them.

I asked Apex the same question about their DCAEK parts and they aren't certain at this point. They are doing a lot of testing to be sure they are safe and work properly. That said, I also contacted S&W and was told the internals of the metal frame M&P (striker block and sear housing) are the same as the polymer guns. As an aside, I wonder if anyone will make wood or wood-looking grip inserts for these guns. The metal frame would look very nice with them.

As that's a 5" in the photo, there is probably no chance that the 4" upper will work on it. Too bad. BTW, how is the trigger pull on that frame? I have a Pro Series 5" 2.0 CORE that I installed the Apex DCAEC kit in and it made a huge improvement in the trigger pull as the factory pull was pretty mediocre. I wonder if the metal frame is better as received without replacing parts.

So the uppers from the regular polymer frame 2.0's fit and work on the new metal frame. I wonder if a 5" upper would work.

Apparently no one here knows. You might contact CZ USA to see if they can provide them.

This is a duplicate post. The other one has some useful responses

There is nothing unique, difficult or special for loading for the Ruger PC Carbine so any safe published load that works in your pistol with the same bullet weight and powder should function just fine. I load 125 gr Blue RN coated bullets with 4.0 gr of either Alliant Sport Pistol or Hodgdon Titegroup and they work just fine in my M&P9 2.0 pistol, my Ruger PC Carbine and a JP GMR15. No differences in loading for all of them.

For a closed emitter red dot consider the Holosun 509T. It has a closed emitter with a 2moa dot surrounded by a 32moa circle. The circle is very fast for your eye to pick up and the dot allows very precise aiming. The circle acts a bit like a "peep" sight and your eye pretty much automatically centers the target inside it.

Try these people: https://shop.fiberopticproducts.com/Fluorescent-Fiber-Gun-Archery-Sight If they don't have it it probably isn't made. The fiber diameters most commonly used in gun sights are 0.04" (1mm) and 0.06" (1.5mm).

I wonder if the Holosun 507K would work better. It's smaller and lighter than the 507C but shares the same reticle.

I shoot in a PPC league where both speed and precision are needed. The Holosun 507C with the 32 moa circle and 2 moa dot meet this need very well. the circle makes the reticle very fast to find on the draw and the dot allows good precision to center in the X ring. It's a great combination.

I've always wondered about the fixation on getting a dot as low as possible. Does an extra 1/4" above the bore really affect anything? EGW mounts are very sturdy and very versatile and their thickness is quite small. Look at the mounting brackets common on open guns which position dots well above the bore and higher than any dovetail mount.

I've gotten them from both Carbon Arms and m2 Inc. The buckles and the ratcheting straps interchange perfectly. m2 offers a wider range of strap lengths, buckle material and widths but for widths suitable for gun belt use they are identical.

I strongly recommend against the Lee Loader. Resizing is done with a mallet as is primer seating. Hammering on your apartment floor will not make the neighbors happy and there is a fair chance of a primer going off while seating it. My first reloading tool was the Lee loader for .45ACP and I couldn't wait to get something better. Any decent single stage or turret (or progressive like the SDB) will be far less of a problem and can be mounted as several of the posters have shown.

That's not an error, it's normal for the GMR-15. My GMR 15 also doesn't have the buffer retainer plunger but does have the hole where one would go on an AR-15. I guess JP doesn't think it's needed with the SCC assembly since the buffer weights and spring assembly are all one unit.

I believe the PC Carbine uses the same hammer springs as the 10/22. If it does, both Wolff and Power Custom make "Extra Power" hammer springs for the 10/22 and that could solve your problem.

It seems to work well on that flat, sandy area you showed. How is it on grass or coarser gravel?