HesedTech

You bet. Glad it worked out. Because of the price I considered buying one to see if it could be tuned to a nice running USPSA gun. Checked with Patriot Defense about milling for a direct mount SRO optic and it turns out the slide is too narrow. It does look good though, let the forum know how it works out for you.

I looked at your pic and video. Several possibilities; With the slide on your milling may have somehow interfered with the trigger bar. Are screws sticking down in under the slide? The new trigger may have changed the ratio of the bar movement and you just aren't getting it to come back properly and push the sear up. If you changed the slide bar lift spring to a lighter one it may not be pushing the bar up sufficiently. If you took off too much material from the slide bar lobes (on top) you may have cause some issues. Did you check the forward trigger stop screw? If the trigger is too far back it may do what you posted. If the forward trigger stop screw is completely back and the trigger is resting against the frame you will have to trim the front of the trigger down to allow for proper forward movement. From your pics it's hard to actually diagnose the issue. What I recommend is you reinstall the factory trigger and see if that resolves the issue. Next run the gun without the optic and plate mounted to the gun. Basically go back to stock and add things to see if the problem stops and then reoccurs. Hope this helps, there are rarely true drop in parts. The fun and joy is in making an idea work.

38 SC is easier to build loads for open than 9 mm major. But, if the price is right you have capable gun for open.

Are you in the USA? If you purchase this for a good price and have access to parts it will work fine. However, there are better open guns than TF. Maybe a 2011 build?

Yes there is. More push (faster bullets) more recoil. After loading well over 100K with different weight bullets and powders here's what I have observed. With the same PF I can tell the difference between those bullet weights. Same bullet weight and PF, but different powders (slow vs fast powders), unless you told me I can't tell the difference. One exception between powders, some are cleaner and some are hotter, as in heat. If one shoots a lot between gun cleanings choose a cleaner powder. I like 147s and use mostly Sport Pistol and Clean Shot, both very clean. Auto Comp works, but is very dirty. TG hot and dirty while 244 is just hot. BTW, Accuracy is more gun dependent. My 147s are very accurate out of Shadow 2s, but at minor speeds not so good out of Glock 19 G5. The Glock likes around 1000 FPS no matter which bullet is used to be accurate (yes factory gen 5 barrel). Hope this helps.

No they will not fit on a LF. The mags of the CZ Shadow 2 will fit in a small frame Tanfo, but it is highly unlikely the magwell would come even close to fitting the SF. If you want a magwell go to the Patriot Defense site and buy one that fits, you will be a whole lot happier in the long run.

That's your clue. The FTF issues are often OAL based. If it will plunk, try 1.14"

No The problem isn't the load, it is the new barrel and feed ramp are different than the one you replaced. I saw the very same thing happen at a match with another shooter (same brand of barrel). We compared the strike on the primer between barrels and what we observed is his new barrel was no longer centered over the striker. The barrel was actually higher than the old factory one. This caused the mag to feed ramp to not be aligned properly. The only simple solution is to try different OALs, but I think your problem is the mag is too low relative to the barrel feed ramp. Do the striker test and see if the dimple is in the same area. Additionally mark the feed ramps (clean) with a Sharpie and see where the nose of the bullet is hitting. BTW, unless you are using a massive heavy recoil spring, that load should cause the slide to fully travel. I don't know you GS, however I have had work done in the past and told things ran perfectly and then they didn't at competition speeds. You are the final test of the work done.

Not true. As pointed out, depending on the parts the thumb safety can be raised on the Shadow 2. CGW adjustable sear for example. As far as a "positive" click into safe goes, not really an issue. Depends on the cleanliness of the gun/part, grease/lube and the contact between safety and sear. I'm wondering if the question is how much of a positive detent is there to hold the safety up while holstered? Again, for competition it's not an issue, but for concealed carry maybe choose another gun.

Hundo check all your match ammo, practice ammo not as much an issue. You would hate to find a split case or one which won’t chamber during the match. New reloaders (I remember the match where I learned this as a new reloader) learn they must have ammo that runs the hard way.

My experience is “match grade” doesn’t mean that much for pistol ammo.

Extended firing pin and spring from CGW? Never used this ammo, however my Shadow 2s with the full CGW parts (trigger, sear, hammer, EFP, Disco, polish) and 11.5# spring sets off basically everything. Even when really dirty.

True. Since you still have DA the trigger has to come forward and the disco, properly fit, determines pre-travel. Generally stock discos have a lot of pre-travel and this is why CGW, CZC, and others sell discos. The problem is it may not drop in and run SA properly. This is where fitting comes in. It is also why some do away with it and use SA only the trigger with the screws. Easy to set pre-travel.

The SA works the same with or without the disco. The disco is fit to reduce pre-travel/take up in SA. Remove the disco and you will need a SA trigger with both pre and over travel screws. The basic function of the disco are two things. In the DA pull it rises (and trigger bar drops) until it comes off the trigger bar and releases the hammer. It also limits trigger take-up after the slide cycles and the hammer hooks are caught on the sear. In SA the trigger bar pushes the sear up and releases the hammer. A gun set up with the disco can have as equally short and light SA as one with it removed. If you are going to shoot LO the only advantage to having DA is if one gets a light strike. You can pull the trigger a second time and see if the cartridge will ignite. In SA only one must rack and feed a new round in. Your choice what you want out of your gun. Here's an old thread on it, notice SA works the same, disco or not. Also the SA trigger has two travel adjustment screws.

Sounds like possibly shell plate wobble with 223. Automation adds a bunch of things one would never notice when pulling the handle. Here's some ideas for you. Make sure you have the shell plate indexing correctly set. If the centering rods on the head are moving the shell plate into position after the plate advances, then your index needs adjusting. Decapping die - FWArms self-centering? FWArms self-centering swage hold down die? Did you do the wire " tie fix" between stations to prevent wobble? These work great from FWA: F.W. Arms™ DILLON 1050/1100/CP2000 #3 STATION TAB SET - FW Arms FW Arms, TNT, or FFB shell plate? These run a bit better than the Dillon one. Did you correctly set the shell plate on the press? Hope these help.

Since you have your first "race gun" and 1-2K a month are not a small numbers, you need to pass by the lesser stuff like LEE and go straight to progressive presses like Dillon and Mark 7. At minimum a starting point is a 750, however with 223 in mind it will not satisfactorily swage the primer pockets. This leads you to the 1100 or comparable Mark 7. I would avoid the Frankford X-10, not because it isn't a good press, rather because support has been reported as not very good. You will need parts in the future and both Dillon and Mark 7 have great support. Welcome to the joys of reloading. BTW Hornady makes great stuff, but the consensus is Dillon or Mark 7 for progressive presses.

Yes. And you can make it better or more personalized depending on trigger/parts choices and your budget.

Not doing anything wrong, die can only go so far down. Here's a trick that works in non-auto feed presses; grind the beveled flair out of the opening of the die. Make sure you smooth the edge to prevent scraping the brass. Used this years ago to combat bulged brass and make sure sizing made it all the way to the shell plate. But, only works if one is hand feeding in the brass. I bought a roll sizer, an expensive fix.

1. Yes 2. Some primers don't feed as quickly. I suspect it's because they have rougher edges. 3. Yes. 4. No. After the first 100 you begin reloading and by the time you need more primers the next magazine tube is refilled. Notes: A dry lube rubbed on the plastic (not silicone) will help the primers feed quicker. The last 3 - 5 primers in the bin will not feed to the tube.

I have had PD do several slides for me and unless you send the whole gun to them or ask they assume the owner knows enough. As far as you doing the work, it’s basically filing down the part that goes against the optic until it fits and runs in the gun. If you cut too much off buy a new one. I do believe the FPB is hardened so it may take some work. Good luck and have some fun.

You have two choices, do the work to the FPB yourself or send it out. Patriot Defense will cut down your FPB, Tanfoglio | Firing Pin Safety Bock - Modified - Patriot Defense Basically, it has to be cut shorter to compensate for the slide material milled off. You keep the same FPB spring. If you are nervous call PD and ask them.

Did you mill the slide for the optic? I’m not familiar with the Hunter, but all the rest have of the Tanfo large and small frames have a firing pin block. If you mill the slide the FPB has to be reduced in size. This could be your problem. To find out, remove the FPB and see if the issue goes away.

I have a powder check die, frankly never needed it and never set it up (at least 100K, probably more). However, if you must have the powder check get the Mark 7 with more stations. Coming from the 650 it really won't matter because the 1100 and Mark 7 presses will require you to purchase more stuff. The only things on the 650 that are the same on the 1100 is the powder measure and the case feeder. The good news is both come with a brand new 1100. I'm totally set up with Blue, but that new Mark 7 with the auto-drive built in is temping. Just don't have any need nor ability to justify it.

A lighter recoil spring does not rise as high as a heavier spring. People have actually done tests and posted the results on YouTube. But, the tradeoff is a sharper feeling hit at full open slide when it hits the stop. Put a buffer in to reduce this. If your additional "grip" is causing accuracy issues with long shots, then you are gripping the gun wrong and possibly anticipating compensating/pushing instead of actually gripping harder with your support hand. Lighter guns of the same design rotate more because of less mass. Guns with a higher center of the barrel bore rotate more because of the leverage... My lightweight 380 recoils/flips/rotates at least double of my competition guns (Shadow 2s). I've shot the Shadow 2 Compact and frankly it just recoils more. The only solution, besides tuning recoil and hammer spring is adding weight and to me that kind of negates the carry advantages of a lighter gun. I'm betting someone will come up with a tungsten guide rod. Everything is a compromise.

Yes. My DA Primer Pro was one of the first ones sold and required the base plate change to run correctly. After 10s of thousands of Federals, that ran perfect, I switched to Fiocchi and am currently at about 6K with only two flipped primers, and I suspect that happened as they went down the Dillon primer feed magazine on my 1100. As far as reliability, 11.5# hammer spring on Shadow 2 all go bang. Not one light strike.