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Brian Enos's Forums... Maku mozo!


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Everything posted by Ken6PPC

  1. Yeah, but the reality is....
  2. It's awful! Forward it to me for "proper disposal"! LOL!!!
  3. BTW, I had one eight pounder of GI 8208 that deteriorated to the point of having rusty residue in it and became acrid-smelling. Scattered it on the lawn for fertilizer. Deteriorated powder can become less potent, or can change burn rates - neither of which is good. Stored in reasonable conditions - no excessive heat or humidity - smokeless powder will probably outlive the original purchaser, and black powder is known to last 200 years!
  4. Some powder from WWII still works well... I have used some! Smell it and look at it. If it doesn't burn your nose or look rusty, it is OK. Is it as good as it was when new? I dunno...
  5. Why are you saying the SRO is more reliable? It hasn't been out long enough to have much history behind it. Some tests have indicated that it is quite fragile...
  6. 58 Chevy, right? You are indeed blessed to still be here!
  7. What a cool story! Thank you for sharing that...
  8. Ken6PPC

    Unusual malfunction.

    And, make certain you are not dragging your thumb on the slide... (as Yondering said...)
  9. Ken6PPC

    Unusual malfunction.

    Change back to the OLD ones, and see if the problem goes away...
  10. Ken6PPC

    Unusual malfunction.

    Does your slide lock to the rear when you fire your last shot? If not, and I'm guessing from the pics, your slide is not going fully to the rear, or it is cycling too quickly to allow the next round to fully rise up before the slide slams forward. I wouldn't think that a 15# recoil spring would cause that, but perhaps your recoil spring rod is preventing full slide cycling, or the recoil spring is too long (or too strong). Try an OEM recoil spring and rod and see if your problem goes away.
  11. My Venom on my Gen 3 19 / Gen 4 23 milled frankengun shows signs of getting beat up a little... No biggie though.
  12. Another option is to buy an aftermarket slide for your pistol that has already been milled... Like one of these: https://www.brownells.com/handgun-parts/slide-parts/slides/rmr-cut-slide-for-glock-34-prod125167.aspx?avs|Make~~Model_1=Glock__34 http://primarymachine.com/glock-ucc-basic-slide-w-internals/ Lots of other choices out there as well...
  13. Some more thoughts... If you strip a thread in the plate system, you just buy a new plate. If you strip a thread in the slide, it has to be drilled out and re-tapped, or worse. The milled slide looks "neater" because the pocket is milled JUST for the optic you are using. If you DO decide to have the slide milled, make sure whoever does the machine work understands the correct angle to mill it, and leaves "bosses" for the optic to index one. Makes it more secure, IMO.
  14. Milled slide allows the dot to be mounted closer to the bore, and is easier to get "used to". MOS allows you to mount different red dots if you change your mind later about the brand of optic you want to run. End of the day, you make your choice, and pay your money. There is no one "RIGHT ANSWER"! If there was, it would be much easier, huh?
  15. My Mark III Hunter is at 20 oz. after the Volquartsen and Tandemkross parts upgrade. I shoot steel with it, and I have never had a problem - YET! If I ever do, I may try to bump the poundage up a little, but I really like that trigger as it is right now!
  16. Exactly! Who is buying more "stuff"? A veteran shooter who has been shooting for decades, and has already decided long ago what their own personal preferences are? Or does a new shooter buy more, who considers every new gadget and gimmick he or she can find in order to try to gain an advantage? Not to mention the fact that there are only a few shooters at the top vs. the much larger number of shooters in the middle and bottom... The real money is in the masses. Seems that everyone checks out the prize table, and new products get their introduction. I know that some of the larger matches I have been involved in, sponsors INSISTED on random drawings for their prize table items. I imagine that is because there is much more return on the table prizes, due to everyone checking them out before the drawing. Cash prizes were based on order of finish, and rightfully so. If a manufacturer wants the top shooters to use their product, that is usually discussed privately.
  17. Random drawing for Prize Table items is the best for the sport. I can't even remember how much money I won from shooting in past matches, but I certainly can remember the randomly-drawn prizes I won. I also remember buying some new products that I learned of from friends who got them from the prize table. Placing well in the match is its own reward, while getting product into the hands of competitors is both a bonus for the shooter who didn't win, as well as the manufacturer that is trying to gain name recognition. Items on the prize table are never purchased using match fees, and should not be distributed based on match placement. If they are, attendance will diminish, and then donations will suffer. Not good for the sport, and not good for the match.
  18. https://www.shootersconnectionstore.com/Shockbottle-Economy-USPSA-Box-P4917.aspx
  19. I wear hearing aids, and I haven't found any hearing protection that will allow me to hear hits on steel plates all the time. (I do have severe hearing loss...) I am currently using Howard Leight Impact Pro electronic muffs when it is cool enough for me to stand them, and they work OK to hear steel plate hits - MOST of the time. They have a very good Noise Reduction Rating (NRR), and the sound quality is pretty good. However, they are MUCH too hot to use during the summer. When it is hot, I use Walker Silencers (mine use standard hearing aid batteries). They are pretty comfortable, but they don't reduce gunfire noise as much as I like, and the sound quality isn't the best. I can't detect steel hits with them with any regularity. The tips have to be replaced pretty often... An alternative would be these: https://www.decibullz.com/custom-molded-percussive-shooting-filters/ But, again, I don't know anyone who has any personal experience with them, plus they don't have any amplification capability. I have also been thinking of trying a set of these: https://www.espamerica.com/ However, I would definitely want to hear from someone with personal experience with them before I drop that much $ for a set...
  20. Sounds impossible to me too, but strange things happen sometimes. If it turns out that your primers fired, but didn't ignite the powder, that is the first I know of in nearly 50 years of reloading! I certainly have not experienced anything like that myself. I would try a different brand (or at least a different lot) of primers next to solve the issue, but it would be educational to find out exactly what DID happen...
  21. I have compared loads using SP and SR CCI primers, and the results were pretty much the same. However, if you have lightened the trigger pull by reducing the hammer spring, you might have problems igniting the SR primers. CCI primers are harder to ignite than say, Federal primers anyway.
  22. Oversized bullets help to prevent gas blow-by. Gas blowing past the base of the bullet is more likely to soften the lead to the point where it strips off and sticks to the rifling. All other things being equal, oversized lead bullets simply shoot better, and fouls the barrel less. Within limits, obviously...
  23. Duh.... Yes, of course that is what I meant. Thank you!
  24. I run 11# recoil springs with ~130PF loads in all three of my Shadows... no issues.
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