Ken6PPC

Isn't gouging illegal? Isn't it odd that they do not list a physical address?

I have a SP-01 Shadow with a CZ Custom baseplate cut. I haven't had any issues with the Vortex Venom on it yet. As tightly as the plate fits the cut, I seriously doubt the RDS is subjected to any more impact that a slide that is cut specifically for one RDS. I am convinced that the plate isn't moving, and the bosses and screws on the plate keep the RDS from moving. I also like the fact that I can change to another optic brand if I choose to do so.

Happy to hear that the cerrosafe worked. Good idea using the screw to help expand it into the brass... Hope you don't have to use it again, anytime soon!

Actually, as I understand this issue, it is NOT keeping mags loaded that wears them out. It is the cycling rounds through them, from use mostly. I have used some mags that were loaded for many years, and when I did actually use them, they functioned just fine. The magzines that I use often for matches, needs new springs about every year. They are cycled a lot though, and when it takes less effort to load them, I know that the springs are starting to get weak... I keep spares on hand. So, I don't think you necessarily have to worry about damaging your magazine springs by pre-loading your mags prior to a match - even if that match is a few weeks away! Not that I would say these are "authorities", but here are a couple articles that seems to back up from I have experienced personally: https://www.shootingillustrated.com/articles/2019/8/12/how-long-can-you-keep-your-magazines-loaded/ https://www.luckygunner.com/lounge/magazine-springs-and-ammo-cycling/

I have one of these, and I like it. It doubles as a pretty decent seat. https://www.homedepot.com/p/RIDGID-22-in-Pro-Gear-Cart-Tool-Box-in-Black-222573/205441921?mtc=Shopping-B-F_D25T-G-D25T-25_11_STORAGE_DEVICES-Multi-NA-Feed-LIA-NA-NA-StorageDevices_LIA&cm_mmc=Shopping-B-F_D25T-G-D25T-25_11_STORAGE_DEVICES-Multi-NA-Feed-LIA-NA-NA-StorageDevices_LIA-71700000066089559-58700005819526688-92700053177755273&gclid=Cj0KCQjwjer4BRCZARIsABK4QeW7k6vsE4R9URQsOX-o6a0IVzF-S8j-R03MOpcLTDFrqqaIWdDbmUEaAruYEALw_wcB&gclsrc=aw.ds

Ding, ding, ding! Winner, winner, chicken dinner! With ANY feeding / extraction issues in a 1911 - check the extractor tension first! It is usually the culprit!

You can simply approach this problem the same way as eating an elephant - one bite at a time! In my experience, coated lead 9mm's 0.356" bullets work much better than 0.355". The larger diameter bullets are less of a problem in a smaller bore than smaller diameter bullets are in a larger bore. 0.358" bullets can be troublesome for chambering, and could be an issue in a very tight bore. (I haven't experienced any overspressure problem using 0.358" personally, but I don't have a 9mm barrel that slugs less than 0.355"...) Measure your barrels - It is SO much better to know what size they really are than to not know... Or simply load jacketed bullets, if you really don't want to slug your barrels.

Well, the OP says he has already gone through all the "normal" steps to remove that stuck case section, so I thought "drastic" was the next step... Cerrosafe works well in these situations.

If you already have some Cerrosafe, that would make it easy to remove. If you don't, it isn't crazy expensive... https://www.midwayusa.com/product/1007021082?pid=462291 Cerrosafe is a low temperature melting material used to take a chamber cast. Plug the barrel with a cleaning patch just ahead of the chamber, and then fill it with molten Cerrosafe. (Don't overfill it.) After the chamber cast cools, knock it out from the muzzle side using a squib rod (a cleaning rod will work if you don't have a squib rod), and the broken case will come out with it. Be sure to knock it out soon after it cools, or the Cerrosafe will expand larger than the actual diameter. If you have to, you can heat it up to melt it out as well.... Keep the Cerrosafe, because it can be used over and over!

Yep, the M die for rifles is usually used only for lead bullets.

It is generally accepted that extremely high temperatures and humidity will shorten the life of ammunition and the components of ammunition. Not that extreme temperatures and humidity will do much in the short term, but over decades, it certainly can. Quoted from SAMMI Recommendations, "however, extended exposure to high temperatures and/or high humidity may damage ammunition." https://saami.org/wp-content/uploads/2018/04/SAAMI-Recommendations-for-Safe-Ammunition-Storage-and-Handling-1-18-2018.pdf More: https://saami.org/wp-content/uploads/2018/04/Info-Doc-Smokeless-Powder.pdf https://saami.org/wp-content/uploads/2018/04/Info-Doc-Primers.pdf (Note 11-5.4 in this one...) Now, having said that, I have shot some lots of ammunition of 30-06 from WWI, WWII and the Korean War era that shot great, and some were actually pretty accurate as well. I also had some surplus ammo from around the 1930's (or 1940's) that was dissapointing. Those were inconsistent in recoil and accuracy (no chrono available back then), and I pulled and reused the bullets from the rest of them. The bullets were fine - natch! I even witnessed some French surplus 8X57mm Mauser ammo that a friend had, which ruptured the case about half of the time. Some with case head seperations! This ammo was shot in a rifle that functioned well with all other ammo tested. (I advised him to stop shooting that ammo - IMMEDIATELY - at least around ME!) Naturally, I have no idea of the conditions any of those lots were stored in, but I seriously doubt the WWI ammo was stored in air conditioned spaces! If you just store your ammo and components in reasonable conditions, they will very likely outlast you!

I can't tell you about a 9mm load at 100 PF, but I can tell you that I have tried to find a light load like you describe. I gave up on the effort, after finding that everything I tried in that low of a PF either wouldn't cycle the action reliably, or wouldn't group well enough to be of serious consideration. My best effort at such a light PF load was 3.14 grains of Titegroup with a 124 gr. Xtreme plated bullets, which gave me a PF of 106. With a light recoil spring, it was pretty reliable, but it still wasn't accurate enough for me though... I suspect that the light loads didn't have enough pressure to cause the bullet to obturate well enough to fully engage the rifling. I imagine this would be much easier, if I had used bullets that were very soft (or grossly oversized), but I never got around to actually trying that theory. Your bullet / barrel combination may not have this issue. If you find a 100 PF 9mm load that works well for you, it would be interesting to hear the details. Edited to add - BTW, that 106 PF load was in a pistol barrel...

I agree with Nolan and SGT_Schultz. If you don't see any deficiency in the dies you are using, continue to use them. I think most shooters use common dies for action pistol shooting, and only start to invest in the higher quality reloading tools for high precision shooting.

This may or may not apply to you, but I have found that the harder I try to hold bullets as they enter into the seating die, the more crooked they seat. I concluded that although I THOUGHT I was holding the bullets and cases straight, I was actually pushing them sideways, making misalignment worse! I have far fewer misaligned bullets (bulging more on one side of the case than the other) when I just keep my fingers OFF! YMMV...

How do you get those to "plunk"? Do you ream your 9mm chambers oversize?

Yes, I saw that +0.004", but that isn't optimal. That is only the maximum tolerance, and certainly not best for accuracy. I too have slugged many 9mm barrels, and any barrels that are over 0.356" do not shoot as well (with lead bullets) as do those that are closer to 0.355". I have had chambering problems when using bullets larger than 0.356", so I use 0.356". The OP was specifically asking about coated lead bullets.

Why would you? Not being sarcastic... I would really like to know the logic of that decision. Do you shoot lead bullets, plated, FMJ, or JHP? What diameter?

Perhaps that is acceptable for SAMMI... They are primarily concerned with safety. Such a large overbore as 0.359" groove diameter may be SAFE, but it is doubtful to be accurate. One would need 0.360" diameter lead bullets to prevent gas blow-by, and they would probably be difficult if not impossible to load in a case AND fit a standard chamber. One could go with a wildcat chamber, but then it wouldn't be a SAMMI 9mm Luger, would it? Here is what the groove diameter fpr a 9mm Luger is SUPPOSED to be:

Your barrel will tell you which diameter it likes best. Simply load both, and see if one shoots better for you. We usually shoot loads on the light side for action pistol games, and with those, you are unlikely to have any serious pressure issues develop. You can also slug your barrel to determine bore and goove diameter, and most advise using bullets at least 0.001" over groove diameter. Meister sells slugging kits you can slug your barrel with, and then use a good micrometer to measure the result. Good info here: https://www.meisterbullets.com/slugyourbarrelsdetails.asp This kit is what I use for 9mm barrels: https://www.meisterbullets.com/AWSProducts/306-C-24-P-0/Slug-Kit-5-Flat-Rate-Included Believe it or not, I bought one 9mm barrel that actually slugged over 0.3565"! It was returned for a refund... If you just want the "CliffsNotes" version, I would recommend using 0.356" lead bullets over 0.355" for 9mm... JHP 9mm's in 0.355" diameter usually work fine, but coated (and even plated for that matter) 0.356" bullets seem to always work better for me. The larger lead bullets are less prone to gas cutting of the base, which can lead to inaccuracy and barrel leading issues. A JHP doesn't have exposed lead on the base, and so gas cutting usually isn't a problem. I have experimented with 0.357" and 0.358" diameter bullets in 9mm, but that is probably best left for the "advanced" class! With some seating depths and some brands of cases, it can be difficult to get those to even chamber... Not to mention to possiblity of pressure spikes! YMMV... The above is my own opinion, and please feel free to take it or leave it as you choose.

Rowdy, you could get one of these frames: https://czcustom.com/new-firearms/cz-pistols-custom/cz-75-parts-kit-frame.html Add your choice of 75 slides (non-FP Block models), and have the trigger tuned. Then you would have virtually the same thing as the short dust cover Shadow 75, in SA only though...

That case is of Chinese manufacture (Norinco), according to "Headstamp Codes - International Ammunition Association". https://www.cartridgecollectors.org/headstampcodes

From the IDPA Rulebook: 8.2.1.2 C. Magazine releases, slide stops, safety levers, de-cocking levers, hammers, and triggers, that are stock on one SSP legal firearm may be used on another SSP legal firearm from the same manufacturer provided they are drop in replacements. Parts in this list must come factory installed on standard production firearms. Special parts that are available installed only from a factory custom shop are not eligible in SSP.

Hear, hear... +1000!

Yep, I agree.

Not necessarily. Get a heat gun and heat up the underside of the slide. That will loosen the red locktite, and allow you to remove the sight. Use an old toothbrush to remove the locktite while it is still hot. Don't try to use a hair dryer for this, it won't get hot enough - a heat gun from a hobby shop will work nicely, like this one https://www.horizonhobby.com/heat-gun-han100.