jmorris

It's a GSI feeder/tool head with a homemade collator. Wished he posted a video of the feat last year. 10 min/hundred is a little work on a stock 550. I could buy it if it were case fed with a GSI feeder but not sure how many of them they ever made.

I ran an extra powder die in station 2 (loading 9mm) and had no seating issues. Once the plastic gets worn, where it rubs the nubs on the frame and they quit agitating well, a new one fixed it right up.

I bought some from a local skateboard shop. A sheet large enough to cover an entire skateboard was $3 will do a lot of grips. Once you cut out the first one keep the backer after you stick the texture on, use it as a template for the next time.

Your right, I can't believe the casting was not cracked.

The RL300 used the short one too, doesn't matter though there is enough adjustment in the current dies they still work fine.

Run the ram all the way up and for 9mm the relationship between the slide cam and body assembly should look like this. The cam and slide are flush with one another on the right, the angle of the photo makes it look like they are not though. The gap between the cam and case feed body is about the width of a business card. If you can't get the cam close enough to make the case feed arm bushing line up with the body bushing like this. And it looks like the top is tilted back I would suspect the plastic slide more than the casting it rides on. If the slide is bad you might get away with it by shortening the ramp where it contacts the cam in pin, allowing them to move further towards the case feed body. At least until the new part arrives.

Nothing like having extra fasteners in your pocket when you visit an obsessive complusive buddy.If it was important you'll have problems, like with primer seating had it been the adjuster for the #2 locator. Stick it to something behind a strip of tape and when something doesn't work, you will know where to find the solution. The only other tiny set screw I can think of on the 650 is what they call the casefeed arm stop pin (page 52 part 2). I don't know why they call it a pin but it is a set screw.

The bottom of the ram is 1/4-28 the one I am talking about is an 8-32.

Get out your manual turn to page 41 and see figure 194. Smallest set screw on the 650 that I can think of, is that one that adjusts the station #2 locator. Part 9 in the exploded view on page 55.

Might need a copy of the manual in French

My boxing dept puts them in bullet down, makes it easy to look and feel the primer end over. Can put them in either way, no need to over think it. MTM seem to have the longest lasting hinges.

That's in the 9mm conversion kit along with all the other parts you need, except dies and case feed plate as he noted. If you don't get all of the parts that came with the 1050 originally you also might need the small powder bar for your measure.

I shot one of my hi powers in a few matches but back then my gun wasn't legal because they didn't allow the removal of the mag safety back then. Ran a 1911 for a number of years then switched to an SV fitted with 9mm and 45 barrels, makes for a good ESP and CDP setup. Some years later I built a standard length/wide dust cover commander top end 2011 that I really like too.

$246 is a pretty good deal these days. You could double your money after Clinton gets elected. http://www.calibersusa.com/dillon-precision/dillon-precision-square-deal-b-40-sw--20787-50734

Get a mini 14 and you can convert one to fire one shot with pull and one shot with release, BATFE approved at the expense of one staple. Once your done wasting ammo, simply remove the staple to return proper function and your not out much except your ammo.

I think if your State is open carry you should be able to compete without a vest. And otherwise you either have to use one of the fishing vests and wear a hat with lures in it or one of the Marty Mcfly "what's with the life preserver", down vests.

That one is a pipe with some lead in it. The others I posted use steel plate(s).

Also how you use it. The extra time it takes the bullet to go that extra half inch, the chrono would tell you it was going 2880 fps when it was actually going 3000 fps.

It collects grit though. Try graphite lock lube instead.

No they were under a white canopy IIRC, I think it was 2006 nationals at CASA and I have had a few beers since then but I do remember the angles on the chronograph bodies and they looked like they were designed for It.

It was 3 of these. One in the center and one on either side tilted inward so one shot went through all of the sky screens at the same distance from the muzzle well within an inch or so. Some of the readings were as much as 20 something FPS different, they used the highest reading one. One of those times the old "a man with one watch always knows what time it is, a man with two is never sure." situations.

At nationals one year there were 3 chronographs setup so each shot passed through all 3, none of them read the same velocity.

Interesting, with that method you could likely get by with the primer trays of the Lee hand primer.

Assuming you have the correct parts installed, with the plastic tip your loading with an SD, 550 or 1050, on the SD and 550 you need to make sure you have the anvil fully seated before you tighten the set screw that holds it in place. With the priming system out you can see that the cup is clearing the plastic tip as you cycle it back and forth, if it is rubbing you don't have the anvil fully seated and/ or your tip is trashed. You might also notice that there is a "nub" or key on the plastic tip, so the tube must be rotated so it can drop down and it is fully seated, if you just drop it in, it likely will be too high and primers can flip or just spill out into the machine. Just "snug" the knurled tube retainer up top, cranking down on it can cause problems in itself. If there is any damage to the tip put a new one on, once it's damaged all bets are off and bad results are ensured.

Glad you have it figured out. Back when I had a strong mount and roller handle on one of my 650's is actually made another part that mounted to the strong mount that was close enough to the handle that on the ram down stroke, I could put my fingers around and squeeze the primer into the pocket (not unlike a brake lever on a motorcycle). Pretty much the same way I wrapped my finger around the primer blast tube shield on my SD's, when seating primers. I really liked the feel but not the strong mount so much. In any case you can just see it behind the handle in this photo (best one I could find of it uploaded). Thousands of rounds later I just have a different feel of pushing the handle for the desired result.