jmorris

I don't have any either but any of the thinned walls below would easily show up.

The bearing embedded into the arm is close in diameter to the one at the end of the indicator. When aligned, there is very little contact point and most importantly to me, can't scratch the brass like a sharp point would. If you have a case or cases with impending case separation, send me a PM and I'll make a video of how well it does "seeing" it.

Well, the doctors didn't kill me last week and I got tired of laying and sitting so I did a few minutes of resting out in the shop today. Not a big project but an easy one I had been intending to do when I had a few min. It's just a 3/16 rod with a .100" bearing embedded into one end that can line up with a dial indicator. I built it to mount on the backstop dowel of my runout gauge to keep it simple. Now I can have an accurate measurement of case walls without having to ruin one. Sectioned .223 case. http://i664.photobucket.com/albums/vv5/qvideo/Concentricity%20Gauge/IMG_20161116_114426_881_zps6nfsgclj.jpg Empty http://i664.photobucket.com/albums/vv5/qvideo/Concentricity%20Gauge/IMG_20161116_114815_156-1_zpstjk57bll.jpg 300 win mag http://i664.photobucket.com/albums/vv5/qvideo/Concentricity%20Gauge/IMG_20161116_114757_103-1_zpsdzesrbok.jpg

Don't trash it, return it or send me a PM with what color press you would like me to send you in trade for it.

Makes a powder check/lockout die seem cheap.

That is pretty much what I do with my GSI's but they didn't offer a collator when I picked up my first one so I have always built my own collators. Also saves money on the most expensive part of any bullet feeder.

I prefer a alcohol/lanolin lube like Dillon or homemade but any of them would likely be better than nothing. If you are wet tumbling or using brass that has been wet tumbled that will also increase the effort of loading them.

A squib followed by a regular round can be just as bad as a double. Then you have folks modifying Dillon powder measures to the old style "no clunk" linkage or another brand measure (RCBS, Hornady or Lee) that can all double if short stroked. If your happy, I am too, they both work and I even have both and other feeders myself. I just prefer the GSI because I get the best of both worlds, speed and safety.

Similar but not the same. http://www.thehighroad.org/index.php?threads/rcbs-pro2000-powder-measure-question.747842/

Are you using case lube?

Yep and my wife's keys move themselves from where "she's sure" she put them. The PC/lockout is there you save you from yourself. Again you shouldn't need it but if it saves you once is it worth $60? You don't buy insurance with the intent of damaging the object you insured, it's there for "just in case".

That didn't take long.

I agree that one should verify with the old mark one eye ball too. That said I have never read a kaboom thread where they were using a PC or lockout die. So I guess it like the breakers at my house, despite never needing them because I pay attention to what I plug in, I'll leave them there just incase they save me from something a I missed down the road. Same thing for an airbag or seat belt, they only need to be useful once to be worth it.

Yep, post photos and remind me to never let you date my daughter. If things don't feel right and she lets you know, never think force is going to help.

Per gallon of H2O add 1T dawn 1/4t lemishine Works great if you just run it for 30 min to an hour. Forget about it and let it run all night though...

The GSI will let you keep the powder check and seat then crimp in 4 and 5. One of the dropper style would let you keep your powder check, drop at 4 and seat/crimp in 5.

Not without knowing what you are going to try and load with it. Just like the Dillon's they require specific parts for different calibers/cases. This is where you start. http://www.midwayusa.com/product/290524/hornady-lock-n-load-powder-measure Don't forget you lose the failsafe device that helps prevent double charges with one, when you do convert.

LOL! You ment a "girl substitute" robot. I dare you to google that...

No, already out numbered by girls at my house. I could design something to take your money from you, require you to do more around the house and keep you up at night if you wanted me to...

I was too cheap to buy one and too lazy to manually operate it but I did look at Magmas exploded views a few times before I built mine.

That is not how my manual reads, on page 20, to have the locator tab adjusted. You could have the best manual in the world and it won't help people that don't read it.

Take a look at page 20 (they have it under station #3 vs #4 where it actiually is but they also call a "collator" a "case feeder") of the manual for primer tab instructions. Even if you happen to light off a primer you won't "blow up" a 1050.

If you wanted to eliminate the swage altogether you could remove it and the expander/back up rod and install a regular size die. However I too wonder why you would want to do so? Just mount a regular size/decap die in #2.

Can you name another progressive press that comes with a more detailed manual than the SD, 550, 650 or 1050? If you can't read they even have a DVD.

You can turn them OD green if you wet tumble and forget about them until the next day. http://i664.photobucket.com/albums/vv5/qvideo/Mobile%20Uploads/IMG_20140821_181257_478-1_zpsupnz1h00.jpg