kmitchl

I was surprised at the variance in springs that were all labeled the same from the same manufacturer. So. yes I use a spring tester.

I've run a lot of rounds through a 35 lower with a 34 slide and vice versa with never an issue. Yes, the ejectors are different but aparently not enough to make a difference.

Make sure the plastic ends are fully seated on the tube. Pat Miles is right. It's physically impossible for primers to flip once they are in the aluminum tube. But there is enough room for them to flip if the ends are not fully seated and there is a gap between the shoulder inside the plastic tip and the end of the tube.

If you can find someone locally selling industrial sand blasting media they may have crushed walnut and corn cobb media in stock at a reasonable price. I use 14/20 in corn cobb media and 20/40 in walnut media.

I've loaded a lot of N310 in 9mm minor with 147 gr bullets. Never tried it with lighter bullets. It burns very cleanly. Very soft recoil. As others have said it is very FAST! IIRC it is one notch faster than Bullseye on the burn rate chart. IMO not something for the inexperienced reloader.

How many rounds through the gun? Any previous problems. I've seen a few chambers that were belled on the barrel end that would not extract but this problem is evident from the start.

The Tripp 10 round mags run great in my 9mm Kimber right out of the box. The 9 round 38 super mags did not work for me.

+1 on SnS cast bullets. They are the best cast bullets I've used. He takes the time to pack them for shipment so they arrive intact.

Sounds like a primer seating issue. I've reloaded thousands of rounds on a 650. I recently started loading again after a layoff of almost two years and had a few rounds with primers that were not seated deep enough and did not go bang. The feel of a properly seated primer is something that comes with experience. Although you are using carbide dies try lightly lubing your cases. I use the Dillon lube in a pump sprayer. I put my cases in a copy paper box top, get all laying on their side, and give them a few shots of lube. Shake the box to distribute the lube and let it dry for a few minutes before you load. Makes the press run smoothly so you are better able to feel what is happening.

Check out the thread at the link below. I've done this mod and it seems to help. Also make sure you are lubing cases and operate the press as smoothly as possible. http://www.brianenos.com/forums/index.php?showtopic=86570&hl=thrust bearing&st=0

Best price I've found is Grainger. If you can have them delivered to one of their locations for pick up there are no shipping charges and they are usually available in a day or so at most.

The same one that works for 1911 springs will work for Wolf Glock springs. The factory Glock springs are a little smaller in ID than 1911 springs so don't know if this spring tester would work.

I thread the springs on a large drinking straw and put tape flags on each end to retain the spring. Write the spring weight on the tape flag. When threaded on the straw they don't get tangled up in your range bag.

OpenDot, Would you care to elaborate on your Dillon setup for 9mm that won't allow a .380 case to load. I use the .40 shellplate to load 9mm but the .380's feed through just like 9's. I usually catch them when they hit the bullet seating station and I realize the case looks a little short. By that time I've already wasted a primer. My Dillon won't let me resize/deprime and reprime a .380 on my 9mm shellplate...

Mounting the press using the receiver hitch works well. I have a single stage Rockchucker set up this way. The more difficult part is getting accurate powder weights. My electronic scales are very sensitive to wind. Without some sort of windscreen I would not trust my powder weights. Fortunately at my range there is a small shed where I can get out of the wind and weigh powder. That is the ticket. You just mount it in your receiver hitch and can use the same press that you load on normally. Can't really beat it, as even with a 1050, it doesn't take long.

I've never damaged a decapping pin due to a crimped primer. They have always come out with no apparent additional effort. Sounds like either the pin is off center or bent so it does not hit the primer or you encountered some Berdan primed cases.

Not only will it work but the 40 plate works better for 9mm than the 9mm plate IMO.

The interesting thing about this thread is the problems all seem to be at the delivery end, never at the shippers end. As I understand individual PO's are evaluated based on the amount of postage they sell. PO's that fail to bring in sufficient revenue are subject to being closed. If the shipping PO gets all the credit it would explain the lack of interest in the delivery PO to deliver packages that require more than a routine level of exertion.

I got grief because Berrys had used staples to close the flat rate box. The counter person claimed she had just been to a class on the rules for flat rate shipments and claimed they don't allow any "reinforcement" of the closure. She wanted to charge me an additional $100 for each of two boxes. She really got belligerent when I pointed out that someone in her organization had accepted the packages for shipment. I didn't understand why I should be penalized for an "error" by someone in her organization. I declined to pay the additional $, left the packages at the PO and called Berrys who eventually involved the postmaster in charge of this area. I finally got my shipment later that day and spoke with the postmaster to confirm the situation was resolved long term. The USPS set the 70lb limit rule. Not anyone's fault but their own. I got grief last time because zero didn't tape it well enough, and the flaps weren't touching (even though I could push them together easily). USPS lady said it had to fit in the box "as designed" (not bulging out) and threatened to charge me extra next time. I almost started saying that obviuosly it was their poor handling that was causing the box to come apart, and how the post master would love to hear how I had to come pick up the box because they were too lazy to deliver it, but just shrugged and let it go. Almost hate to make waves cause I don't want them to lower their weight limit.... -rvb

I almost got burned at an IDPA chrono stage using inverse temp sensitive powder. The way the match was organized you shot a stage, loaded a fresh mag and went to the chrono with a round in the chamber. I needed to make 694 fps with a 180 gr bullet for ESP. The first shot across the chrono was 600. The next two were OK so I passed. The hot barrel and the soak time with inverse temp powder almost put me out of the game. Something to consider.

My recipe for low recoil is heavy bullets and fast powder. For 40 minor loads I use 180 gr bullets with AA#2. When it begins to warm up I switch to N320 or Solo 1000. For 40 Major loads I use either Solo 1000 or N320 with 180 gr bullets. If you want a really soft shooting 40 Major load and aren't adverse to shooting lead, try the 220 gr bullets from S and S Casting and Clays.

My truck got burglarized in in 2006. They got my range bag including a G34. Following that experience I bought a travel safe from PacSafe. These bags have a steel cable mesh embedded in the bag that would take some time and the right tools to cut through. When I have to leave my gun in the truck it's locked to the truck frame behind the back seat. In a hotel I lock it to the plumbing under the sink. I don't know that mine has ever been tested but it takes things away from the smash and grab artist.

I bought the Dawson kit also. Shooter Steve pretty much summarized my experience. My 140mm tubes ran fine right out of the box but I had problems with the 126mm tubes. It got to the point that I could either work on mags or shoot. I ended up sending them to Bobby at Freedom to get the professional touch. Keep in mind that getting a gun to run involves more than just the mags. Ammo OAL and a number of other things enter the picture.