kmitchl

Yes Working on any that fit Tripp mags ? I don't have any of the Tripp 45 mags. The only Tripp mags I have are the 10 round 9mm mags. On these the base pad attaches with two self tapping screws. I've added extended pads on the 9mm mags I have. If there is enough interest I can do something.

Yes

As others have pointed out a 125 pf load probably won't cycle the gun reliably in all situations. I load minor to 135 to 140 pf to make sure the gun cycles espeially in awkward shooting positions where I can't provide as good a backstop as shooting standing freestyle. Those evil match directors like to put you in those types of situations.

These are photos of prototype aluminum mag bases that I've been working with. These work with the Dawson ICE and fit the box. They fit Wilson 47D's, Wilson ETM and McCormick mags. As shown they have been blasted after machining. I'm looking at either duracoat or anodize to finish.

I've tumbled moly coated bullets. Doesn't affect the coating. With either lead or moly I limit the tumble time to 10-15 minutes.

1. Never noticed this but never looked. IMO not an issue unless cases start to catch in the drop tube. 2. Check the shell plate to make sure there is no debris in the shell plate slot that receives the case rim. I found that unless I clear mine periodically spilled powder and tumbling media get trapped there and interfere with inserting cases. 3. Loosen the two socket screws that hold the powder measure to the powder drop die and rotate the powder measure until the failsafe rod is vertical. I've never found it to be an issue when the rod is not vertical.

I use a copy paper box top. Put 2-300 cases in. Lay all of them flat and give a few shots of Dillon pump bottle lube. Give it a shake to distribute the lube. Best to wait a few minutes while the alcohol evaporates but not entirely necessary.

I've never been sucessful in getting the button from a factory guide rod to stay in place after I removed it. Never bothered me too much since I use a free guide rod anyhow.

I've been getting FO material from Fiber Optic Products for several years. Good price and prompt delivery. This is so cheap I change fibers frequently. Fiber Optic Products

I just ordered a current one after doing without for several years. As others have stated, sometimes it's easier to find items with the hardcopy.

I inevitably get a 40 case mixed with my 9's or vice versa. The 9 case slides inside the 40 case and will not clear the case feed adapter which stops a case from dropping to the shell plate. The case just clearing the gap between the case feeder funnel and the plastic drop tube bridges the gap so I can't remove the drop tube to clear. I tried raising the case feeder to increase the gap but then I get cases that hang at the top of the drop tube. How do others clear this jam?

Here is a link to an old thread that may be helpful. My link Our club has some we bought that are 3/4" round bar for the upright. The clays are placed in a loop of 1/4" round bar bent into a loop and welded across the upright. We bought these from someone in Pennsylvania and they were very reasonable. The other kind I've seen had a short piece of 2" channel welded to a steel stake. The clay sits in the "U" of the channel and rests against the stake. The ends of the channel are closed with flat bar to keep the clay from rolling off. The angle iron described above would work as well as the channel.

The primer get's stuck on the decapping pin and gets sucked back into the primer pocket. The fix I implemented it to file a taper on the tip of the decapping pin. I chucked mine in a drill press but a hand drill would also work. The other fix I've seen posted is to file the tip of the decapping pin to make it more blunt. I've not tried this personally. I know tapering works. I load with CCI primers almost exclusively and have not had a problem since reshaping the pin.

I use the Surefire Shot timer during pracice so I can e-mail the times to myself. I then import them into Excel and save them to see if I am making progress.

When I develop a new load I try it with both standard and mag primers. The difference in velocity over the chrono is insignificant, generally less that 10 fps. I do find differences in the SD between standard and mag primers. Some powders will deliver a lower SD with one than they will with the other.

In my experience you won't be reliably lighting Remington primers with a reduced power striker spring as many run in Glocks to reduce the trigger pull weight. Given the choice between no primers and Remington, Remington would win every time. But given the choice between Remington, Federal, CCI or Winchester, Remington would be my last choice. Not that they are a bad product, just don't always meet my needs.

What's the secret to get LSWC to feed in a 1911? I have a Kimber Eclipse that will not reliably feed LSWC. With any round nosed ammo it is 100% reliable. The LSWC goes up the feed ramp catches the bottom of the barrel and stops. It usually indents the nose of the bullet where it hits. This seems to occur with 3-4 rounds left in a magazine. Mags are Wilson 47D. I tried the Wolff extra power mag springs but no change. The same thing happens with several different mags so if it's mag related all my mags need to be changed. The gap between the feed ramp and the barrel looks about right. The feed ramp and barrel entrance are polished. The extractor tension is set to barely hold a loaded round on the breechface. Any suggestions on where to look next?

I've had the same problem. Timing the GS to releae the trigger with less movement helps. On one gun I added a piece of double sided foam tape to build up the GS bump a little. Not pretty but it works and can be easily removed if I decide to sell the gun. On another gun I added a lump of paste epoxy to build up the bump. Shaped it with a file after it set. Again not attractive but functional. I understand some have machined a flat on the GS bump and silver soldered a SS block to build up the GS. The you file down the block to something that works and is attractive after finishing. The next one I modify will be done this way.

I use a combination of the CocoBolo and Merlin technique. Most important is not having a bullet set back. That's done with the two finger test on the loading bench. You MUST have enough grip on the bullet to keep the bullet from setting back. Second issue is getting the case mouth bell closed enough to clear the case gage and ensure the round feeds and chambers with no problem. That's the feel test. I've never been sucessful trying to measure the crimp particularly with mixed brass with varying wall thickness.

The product I buy is called Grit-O-Cob. I am in the Houston area and buy from Clemtex who sell abrasive blasting equipment and media. You might try a search for Grit-O-Cob and contact the manufacturer concerning who in your area stocks the material.

For corn cobb media I buy 14/20 from an industrial blast media supplier. Much cheaper than the stuff sold for polishing brass and no difference in performance. Some welding supply outlets also stock corn cobb media. Would like some feedback on how well the finer media works. One benefit I see is the finer stuff will not get trapped in the flash hole.

I'm not Eric but I can tell how I got my 126mm STI mags to lock back reliably. I worked with the STI followers for a long time and was never able to get there with them. I switched to Grams springs and followers. Generally out of the box Grams followers will lock back with one round left. You file away a little at a time on the part of the follower that contacts the tab on the slide stop. IIRC the instructions with the Grams followers describe filing the follower at an angle. I was more sucessful filing it flat. There's not much difference between just right and too much. If you screw up (and how do I know this) and take too much off so you get no lock back don't worry. I drilled a tiny hole in the follower with a Dremel, tried to "bell" both ends and put a drop of JB Weld on it to build it back up. Make sure the JB Weld goes completely through the belled hole to provide a good anchor.

I usually travel with two guns and have always received only one card. The other thing I always do is remove the slides from the frame. I had to rack the slides on two guns in the middle of a crowded airport the first time I traveled with guns to demonstrate they were unloaded. Made me really uncomfortable. You never know when security personnel will see this from across the room and get excited. With the slide off it's easy to show they are unloaded although not many gate agents would know the difference.

I installed the bearing on my 650. Seemed to help but the biggest improvement came from cutting a coil from the spring.