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Brian Enos's Forums... Maku mozo!


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About kmitchl

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    Sees Target

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    Katy, Texas
  • Real Name
    Keith Mitchell
  1. I've run a lot of rounds through a 35 lower with a 34 slide and vice versa with never an issue. Yes, the ejectors are different but aparently not enough to make a difference.
  2. Make sure the plastic ends are fully seated on the tube. Pat Miles is right. It's physically impossible for primers to flip once they are in the aluminum tube. But there is enough room for them to flip if the ends are not fully seated and there is a gap between the shoulder inside the plastic tip and the end of the tube.
  3. If you can find someone locally selling industrial sand blasting media they may have crushed walnut and corn cobb media in stock at a reasonable price. I use 14/20 in corn cobb media and 20/40 in walnut media.
  4. I've loaded a lot of N310 in 9mm minor with 147 gr bullets. Never tried it with lighter bullets. It burns very cleanly. Very soft recoil. As others have said it is very FAST! IIRC it is one notch faster than Bullseye on the burn rate chart. IMO not something for the inexperienced reloader.
  5. How many rounds through the gun? Any previous problems. I've seen a few chambers that were belled on the barrel end that would not extract but this problem is evident from the start.
  6. The Tripp 10 round mags run great in my 9mm Kimber right out of the box. The 9 round 38 super mags did not work for me.
  7. +1 on SnS cast bullets. They are the best cast bullets I've used. He takes the time to pack them for shipment so they arrive intact.
  8. Sounds like a primer seating issue. I've reloaded thousands of rounds on a 650. I recently started loading again after a layoff of almost two years and had a few rounds with primers that were not seated deep enough and did not go bang. The feel of a properly seated primer is something that comes with experience. Although you are using carbide dies try lightly lubing your cases. I use the Dillon lube in a pump sprayer. I put my cases in a copy paper box top, get all laying on their side, and give them a few shots of lube. Shake the box to distribute the lube and let it dry for a few minutes before you load. Makes the press run smoothly so you are better able to feel what is happening.
  9. Check out the thread at the link below. I've done this mod and it seems to help. Also make sure you are lubing cases and operate the press as smoothly as possible. http://www.brianenos.com/forums/index.php?showtopic=86570&hl=thrust bearing&st=0
  10. Best price I've found is Grainger. If you can have them delivered to one of their locations for pick up there are no shipping charges and they are usually available in a day or so at most.
  11. I'll take the YHM forearm provided it's in good shape. Can you send some pictures so we both understand the condition? Takes the mystery out of gently used. E-mail is kmitchl@yahoo.com



  12. The same one that works for 1911 springs will work for Wolf Glock springs. The factory Glock springs are a little smaller in ID than 1911 springs so don't know if this spring tester would work.
  13. I thread the springs on a large drinking straw and put tape flags on each end to retain the spring. Write the spring weight on the tape flag. When threaded on the straw they don't get tangled up in your range bag.
  14. OpenDot, Would you care to elaborate on your Dillon setup for 9mm that won't allow a .380 case to load. I use the .40 shellplate to load 9mm but the .380's feed through just like 9's. I usually catch them when they hit the bullet seating station and I realize the case looks a little short. By that time I've already wasted a primer. My Dillon won't let me resize/deprime and reprime a .380 on my 9mm shellplate...
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