kmitchl

Check your 9mm range pickups with a magnet. In my most recent batch of 9mm I found a number of 9mm S&B cases that were brass plated steel. I've always had problems priming S&B even with the brass cases. I usually avoid loading them. After you've loaded on a 650 for some time you will learn to feel when a primer is not seating as it should and know to stop to find the problem. Keith

I was having problems with light strikes with a Wolff striker spring. The spring was one of a package of 10. I made a jig to test the striker spring weights and found that of the 10 in the package the problem spring was the lightest in the package. I picked another spring that measured in about the middle of the group and had no more problems. I did learn there is a reasonably large variance in spring weights in the sample I tested. I've tried cutting coils and have not experienced any negative results. I cut one coil at a time and tested the spring weight until I got the trigger weight I wanted. I probably have 2000 rounds on that spring with no problems.

A few additional comments. It's unlikely that you will run out of horsepower in any machine tool used for gunsmithing. We are generally interested in achieving the best accuracy and surface finish possible. This is not usually compatible with large cuts removing lots of material and throwing blue chips. I've owned both step pulley and variable speed machines. When I had the step pulley almost everything got cut at the same speed since it was such a PIA to move the belt. With the variable speed I adjust the speed to meet the application. If you go the rotary converter route, mount the idler motor outside and sound insulate. Mine is in the overhead of my shop and is noisy.

I suggest you get a Bridgeport type knee mill. I started with mill-drill and learned a lot for not a lot of money but soon moved to full sized mills. If you can find a Bridgeport in good condition at a good price buy it. I've looked at a lot of worn out Bridgeports and would place the new Chinese machines above them. My current machine is an 1980's vintage import that came from a one man shop. It got run in production but obviously not 40+ hours every week. A lot of the machines are three phase which can be powered in several ways if you have only single phase available; static phase converter, rotary phase converter; variable frequency drive. A DRO makes a big difference. I just finished replacing mine last night. I have not begun to figure out everything the new one will do - probably a lot more than I ever use. I bought an X axis power feed several years ago but have never taken the time to install. I've used them on other machines; just have not felt the need on the current model. Spend the money on a good vise. Kurt is a good brand. I struggled with an import vise until I spent the money on a quality vise. Welcome to the other addicition.

In my most recent sorting of range pickups I found that all of the 9mm cases with the S&B headstamp are brass plated steel. They are boxer primed and the plating is aparently pretty thick. However, when I pulled a magnet through the mix to get any residual steel cases the magnet picked up the S&B cases also. I had loaded a number of S&B cases in the past and experienced the tight primer pockets, but was suprised to find they have steel cases.

I store my springs threaded on plastic drinking straws with a tape flag on both ends to retain the spring. On one tape flag I write whcih gun the spring fits and on the other the spring weight. To remove the spring from the straw I roll the tape flag aroud the straw and slide the spring over it. The straw in my range bag with no spring is for the spring in the gun. I can keep several springs in my bag and they don't get tangled and are easily identified.

N320 for major. Acurate #2 for minor.

Glad to see this. I've been pleased with the 220 gr I got from him but can't seem to give up the 180's. Now I can order both from one source.

Check the alignment of the shell plate with the primer punch. The primer punch should be centered in the shell plate opening. Dillon will send you a free alignment tool, however, a calibrated eyeball will get you pretty close. The alignment tool is simply a rod with the OD a slip fit through the circular opening in the bottom of the shell plate and a concentric hole to accept the primer punch pin. One end is drilled for large primers and one end is drilled for small primers. The Indexer Block mounted to the left side of the press is used to adjust the alignment. Follow the hints above and check the alignment and you should be able to load any brand of primers with no problems. The 650 doesn't respond to being strong armed very well. When you feel a little additional resistance stop and see what's causing it.

I tried the Wolf and ISMI mag springs in my Wilson 47D's. Both would assemble in the mag tubes, however, they would not run in any of my 1911's. I'm back to the Wilson mags and Wilson springs.

+1 on the TFO's. The fiber optic works well for me in lit areas and the tritium lamps really make the sights stand out in the dark. I can get closer to my normal grip using a flashlight when I don't have to get the flashlight high enough to light the sights as well as the target.

I use Accurate #2 for minor loads in .40 in a G35 and STI. Low smoke, low muzzle flash and a SD of usually less than 5. For major loads in .40 I use N320. Keith

I have a Jarvis in my G35 and a LWD in my G21. Both shoot better than I can. I think the LWD barrels are a good value. The G21 chamber is tighter than a stock Glock chamber. I case gage anything I shoot in a match so it's not an issue.

RCBS and Forster offer a similar die. The Redding dies are more expensive. Are they worth the additional $? Keith

I use a 12# spring in a G34. My loads will make pf at 3.0 grains with my barrel, etc. I usually load 3.4 to 3.5 to make sure the gun will cycle in those situations where I don't provide a good backstop. The two things you need to compete are a gun that runs and ammo that goes bang. If your gun stops it makes no difference what pf you make.

I load 147 gr 9mm with N310. It's the original bunny fart load. Low recoil, very clean, low report, minimal muzzle flash at night. N310 is really fast - faster than Bullseye. I don't recommend it to anyone who is not an experienced reloader. You must have a solid crimp. Bullet setback will result in overpressure.

I had problems with the mag follower over riding the slide stop in my Kimber 9mm 1911 until changed to a Wilson Bullet Prooof Slide stop for 9mm/38 super. The Wilson protrudes into the magwell by about .020" more than a .45 slide stop but it was enough to make it work 100%. I've used the Tripp 9mm mags with no problems.

I selected a .40 when I bought my Eagle. I can load minor for the IDPA game and major for USPSA. The big cost number in reloading is the bullets so the heavier .40 bullets cost more. One benefit in loading .40 over 9mm is I don't recall ever coming across a .40 case with a crimper primer. A 9mm case with a crimped primer or a S&B case stops my press so I usually spend the time to sort out the crimped cases in 9mm. Likewise, from time to time I get a 9mm case stuck in a .40 case that stops the press when loading .40. As far as recoil, there is little difference.

I own a Pact, RCBS and Dillon. Of the three in order of confidence in the results and repeatability the Dillon is first followed by the RCBS with the Pact last. The Pact I have is the one they sell with the powder dispenser.

I use it. It does not clean as well as a tumbler but brass is cleaner after using it than before. There are several homwbrew recipies online that are as effective.

I have a Kimber 9mm 1911 that is reliable, however from my experience you have to be willing to tinker with them to get them to run. All of them seem to have their quirks. Mine came from Kimber with the same slide stop they put in the .45's. I could not get the slide to lock back reliably until I went to the Wilson bullet pruff slide stop for 9mm/38 super. It's really fun to shoot with 125 pf ammo. Mine with a S&A magwell is right at the 43 oz weight limit for IDPA ESP. Keith

I have measured the spring wire diameter but never tried weighing springs to get an indication of spring rating. I use a spring tester. A spring tester can be made from an eye bolt, a few washers and a spring scale for weighing fish. The one I use is a little more elaborate but works on the same principle. As an alternate to the spring scale you can use weights. I measure recoil springs at two points - the length at full recoil and the length with the slide fully forward. The spring weight at full recoil length is where recoil springs are rated. So a 16# recoil spring should measure close to 16# at full recoil length.

I'm a hobbist machinst. Over the years I've traded around a number of different machines and talked to a number of people with similar interest. I suggest you save your money for a dedicated mill and lathe. I've never talked to anyone with a 3 in 1 machine who was satisfied. For gun work what I look for is a machine that will cut straight and produce a good surface finish. I'm not interested in making hero cuts in Inconel 625 with blue chips. One of the ways I use to evaluate one brand of machine against another is the weight. The more mass equals more rigidity equals truer cuts with better surface finish.

One other suggestion. When handling the filled primer tubes be particularly careful to keep them upright as they were filled and avoid shaking. I keep a tall drinking glass on my bench to hold filled primer tubes upright. There is enough clearance in the tubes to allow large primers to turn over if you don't handle carefully. Small primers don't seem to be so prone to this. Keith

I recently took the platform off my 650 to clean all the debris that had accumulated. I ordered the tool from Dillon to align the primer punch. After cleaning and using the alignment tool the press seems to run better than it ever has. The alignment tool is pretty simple. It is a rod about 3/4" long. The OD is sized to fit through the opening in the bottom of the shell plate. One end had a hole about 1/4" deep sized to just slip over the pin in the large primer punch. The other end is sized for the small primer punch. With a lathe you could make the tool in about 20 minutes. Dillon will send one at no charge. Keith