kmitchl

Made mine from an aluminum arrow shaft. Turned an aluminum button to close the shaft on the business end and a cap for the end you hit. A little red Loctite and it's ready to go. It's light to carry and poses no danger to the barrel bore in use.

I've known some who use the same shellplate for 40 and 9 on the 650. IIRC they use the 9 shellplate for both.

The feed lips are set at 0.390 rear and 0.393 front which is similar to other mags which retain the follower. What has me stumped is I can find no difference between this mag and others that work OK. Keith

I just replaced the sear spring in my .40 Eagle to stop it from doubling. I bought the gun new and have about 3000 rounds through it.

I tried the weld up method on a Kimber GS. I used TIG and limited the heat input by working slowly and letting it cool between passes. After dressing up the weld so it looked decent and reassembly I realized the lenght had shrunk by about 0.040" despite all the care. Now it barely catches under the mainspring housing.

I have one 40 cal 126mm STI mag that pukes the STI follower out the top everytime I assemble it. I've changed the follower and spring for ones that work OK in other tubes. Is this something that can be fixed. The gun is a 5" Eagle I use for IDPA so I need for the slide to lock back.

I bought a box stock Eagle about a year ago. The gun is great. Where you want to spend your money is in mag tuning. I've worked with my loads and mags off and on for the last five months and now have some mags that are relaible. I realized the problem was in the mags and not the loads about the time Howard quit taking new business and before anyone else had stepped up to fill the void. I bought the Dawson video and did the tuning myself. One of the forum members just started offering mag tuning also.

Check your brass with a magnet. I can't speak for "I" headstamp, however, I recently found that S&B cases are now brass plated steel. Perhaps other manufacturers are following suit.

My Eagle in .40 did the same thing about a month ago. It is about a year old with around 2000 rounds. It was the sear spring. Don't know if this is a common problem with 2011's but had me going for a short time.

Always work on the cheap part! Cut the pin to fit the hole. If you have a set of wire gage drill bits they can be used for a poor mans set of pin gages. Use the drills to gage the holes that work OK. Then use the same size drill bit to check the questionable hole. It might be something as simple as a burr at the top of the hole.

I was loading 147 gr 9mm plated bullets with N310 to minor pf and getting tumbling. I tried changing OAL and crimp but never found a real answer. After reading a number of post on this board I think I was trying to get too close to the minimum power factor. I should have pushed them a little faster to stabilize. A little more powder was probably the answer but I've never gone back to them to try. Along the same lines I've tried Clays for 40 minor but did not get good results. It does work very well for 40 major with 220 gr lead. I use Accurate #2 for 40 minor with 180 jacketed or lead. It gives good results but is really dirty. I have to clean throughly every 300 rounds or so to avoid malfunctions.

I've had good sucess with Accurate #2 in 40 for both lead and jacketed, however it is not particularly clean. After about 300 rounds my STI needs a through cleaning. N320 burns really clean and is consistent.

I've loaded .45 with N310 and with Clays. Clays runs as clean as N310 and I could not tell the difference in felt recoil.

Anyone got a quick way to clear the case feed when you get a 9mm case nested into a 40 case? I have started to double screen range brass with the shell sorter to avoid this but a few still get through. I moved the case feeder up on the mount to create a 1/2" gap between the botton of the funnel and the drop tube so it can be removed quickly but I still have to pull the drop tube and adaptor to clear the stoppage.

Our club bought some of the pre-cut shapes from the guys at the link below. I thought the pricing was reasonable considering what is required to cut from a sheet of plate. http://www.handgunsports.com/default.htm

If you're satisfied with something that will go bang in all the calibers listed any of the powders mentioned will work. If you're looking for a single powder that makes a certain power factor, works for multiple bullet weights and calibers and has a low standard of deviation across the chrono I've not found that answer. I find that powders that perform well in one gun will not deliver the same reults in another of the same caliber. I inventory an array of powders and change depending on the purpose of the load. The info in this forum provides a good starting poing in the search for a particular application.

Any more feedback on the Dawson Mag Tuning Kit now that it's been available a little longer?

The threads in the platform on mine were tight so I had to turn it out one flat at a time with a wrench. I chased the threads with a tap and can now turn the punch by hand until it is snug and the tighten with one turn of the wrench. Much easier.

It depends. In most of the matches I've shot it is a PE. If this is ruled as a malfunction then someone will aquire the skill to hit the slide lock at the right time to reload when best for them. If the SO is convinced it was a truly a gun malfunction as opposed to a shooter malfunction - no PE. Normally magazines can be adjusted to avoid premature slide lock.

I don't know the vintage of your 650 but when mine was about four years old I started having the same problem. I changed the Case Insert Slide Spring and in conjunction with the suggestion to make sure you complete the priming stroke cured the proble. The spring I removed had taken a set so it was about 1/2" shorter than the new spring.

I have the Warren Sevigny sights on most of my Glocks. I keep one set up with the TFO's to use for low light/flashlight matches.

Berry's pricing puts them out of the game for me considering all of the potential problems you risk with plated. IMO jacketed bullets are a better value.

Shooters Connection. I just bought a DOH holster, CR Speed belt and Safariland mag pouches from them. The Bladetech holster was advertised with free shipping. After the order was shipped and billed and without any prompting from me, SC went back and credited the shipping for the entire order. I would have probably never noticed had I not seen the credit on my bill. That's customer service in my book.

I have used a heat gun very judiciously to bend the Kydex as needed. Keep the heat gun well back until you get a feel for how the Kydex responds. Get it too close and you will cause the surface to bubble. Try to heat only the area you want to adjust. You may want to cover the parts you do not want to heat with aluminum foil. Tape to hold the aluminum foil in place is a bad idea. The heat will turn it into a gooey mess. Make small adjustments and allow to cool in between. The Kydex stays hot for longer than you might think.

Save your money and buy MTM boxes. I had the FA and retired all that had not broken. Replaced with MTM. Much better quality.