kmitchl

I put a Lone Wolf barrel in my G34 several months ago. I immedaitely began to have problems with my handloads. Even the rounds that passed a Dillon case gage would not reliably chamber. Lone Wolf indicated that they would open up the chamber if I returned the barrel. I had a match coming up so coud not return the barrel at that time. I changed from a Dillon sizing die to a Lee sizing die and the problems went away. I use the Lee die and the barrel as a case gage and the gun runs 100% with either jacketed or lead.

I load at 1.125 to 1.130". 1.150" is the max I can fit into a Glock mag.

Would be helpful to know the caliber you are loading and the pf you are require. I load 40 S&W minor with AA#2 and get single digit SD's over the chrono. Only thing to consider is AA#2 is reverse temp sensitive - get slower as the temp rises - which can have a dramatic effect on the pf with the temp variations in Texas.

I have the same pistol and can confirm Comp-tac makes a holster that fits.

I'd be interested in seeing similar data collected on a number of different powders. I was recently burned by AA2 at a match when I left my ammo in the sun for 20 minutes before I shot a stage. It was loaded to around 135 pf at 85-90 degrees. After being in the sun it was so slow it would not cycle the slide. It would be helpful to know if a particular powder gets faster or slower with heat and cold. I've loaded some S1000 and been impressed with the results. I'm thinking it may be the less expensive and more available alternative to N320.

Count the number of primer tubes to be close. Inevitably I have a few that don't case gage that go to the reject bin for further work so it seldom works out to be the exact number of primers I use.

I bought one. It's OK. Learned a few things from the DVD. Tools are decent quality. However, I was not able to get my mags to run 100%. I finally decided I could spend my time learning how to tune mags or I could pay someone else to do it and I could spend my time shooting. So my mags are are with Freedom Gunworks to get the treatment.

I've checked the spring rates on Wolff RP striker springs and found there is a significant variation between springs. I got into this because I had one installed that would light Federal reliably but not CCI. When I checked the spring rate against the rest of the springs in the package of 10, I found it to be the weakest spring in the bunch. Went back and installed one that checked to be middle of the pack and the gun has run fine ever since.

Pro Chrono Digital. These guys had the foresight to include space for a spare battery in the battery compartment. Nothing like getting to the range to find the battery is dead and you can't accomplish what you set out. When I bought mine the computer interface gizmo was pretty clunky. Took longer to translate the data into Excel where I keep my load data than manually entering the results. I see they have a new and improved version.

At one time I shot primarily Berrys plated bullets. I had a problem with them tumbling from a G34 that I was never able to effectively diagnose and solve. Now I shoot both jacketed and lead. Last time I ordered I bought MG which I really like but I've also shot a lot of Precision Delta with no problems.

Who is recommended for a hard chrome job on an STI 2011 since Tripp is no longer offering that service?

Join the Yahoo group CB-L. It's an active group of bullet casters. Ask your question over there. I'm sure someone will steer you right. I lurk over there but since I don't cast have little to contribute.

I usually load N320 but have had some promising results from Solo 1000. I'm in the decision process deciding between buying another 4# jug of N320 or 8# of Solo 1000 for the same price.

Glocks run fine with the factory guide rods. I've never seen one stop due to a guide rod failure. Doesn't mean it has not happened, however, not very common even with high round count guns. I use a SS uncaptured guide rod in my G34 because I don't use factory recoil springs and I have not found a satisfactory captured rod. To answer your questions: I see no change in reliability or accuracy. Only the tungsten guide rods which add weight will reduce mizzle flip, however, they are not legal for IDPA. I see no difference in performance between plastic and steel.

I've found a signinicant variations in Wolff reduced power striker springs. When I need striker springs I buy a package and measure the spring weight of each. I select one close to the middle of the road. I have no problems with a stock striker and the selected spring using CCI primers.

Use the blue unless you never want to disassemble. Which would you recommend for a set screw in my rear sight? I have lost one already. Is blue strong enough?

I keep red and blue on hand. The red is somewhat permananet. It will only release at temperatures above 400 F. The blue will usually break without applying heat. It helps to clean the two parts with brake cleaner to get all the oil and grease off them before applying Loctite.

Not using Clays but you might have something with the recoil spring. My ammo is 135 pf but shoots really soft. I usually run a 12# spring but now that you mention it I have not changed the spring recently. I'll try a stouter recoil spring and see hhow it works. Thanks to everyone for the response. Keith

I'm looking for something to improve the accuracy of my G34. It's about 8" at 25 yds. I'm using the same load and same bullets I've used for the last four years so I don't think it's ammo related. The Caspian slide was around 3" at 25 yds. I use a Lone Wolf barrel in my G21 and have been pleased with the performance. Was thinking the LW slide might help the G34. So far have no response to support that assumption.

Anyone have experience with Lone Wolf slides. I shot a G17 with a Caspian slide and was impressed. Was wondering if the Lone Wolf slides will deliver the same results for less $?

I strapped an aquarium pump to my powder measure. With it turned on I get more consistent results using flake powders like Clays. The vibration consolidates the powder in the metering chamber so all of the drops are the same. I don't think this is the placebo effect since I can see the results in a reduced SD over the chrono.

Where can I find info on the temerature sensitivity of different powders without doing my own tests? It would help to know that a particular powder goes faster or slower as the temperature increases. I learned yesterday that Accurate #2 goes slower as the temperature increases.

My G34 has lost a lot of accuracy after around 15,000 rounds. I shot it off a rest yesterday and had a 6" group at 25 yds. To eliminate the "me" factor I shot My G35 with the same sights, etc at the same time and grouped under 3". Everything through this barrel was FMJ loaded to Production power levels. I used the same load I've used for several years and found to be accurate. Is there anything to consider as the cause other than a shot out barrel? What's considered "normal" barrel life fo Glock barrels?

I use the multiple throw method to set up my powder measure. Anytime I adjust the charge bar I throw two charges and weigh the third charge. I also tywraped an aquarium air pump to the powder reservoir of my powder measure. When using flake powders that tend to bridge and not drop consistent weights I turn on the air pump. The vibration tends to consolidate the powder in the powder bar so the powder charges are more consistent. Since the air pumps don't come with an on-off switch I added an inline switch so it's not a PIA to use.

See if you can find a place locally that sells industrial sand blasting supplies. You are looking for Black Beauty blasting grit. The place I got mine had samples of everything they sell in bins so you could determine what is suitable. I seem to remember a 50# bag being around $8. They may have a broken bag they would sell at a discount. Throw away or share with others what you don't need. While you are there pick up some ground corn cobb or walnut shells for tumbler media.