Want2BS8ed

No, not to me... Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

InLine Fabrication makes a decent plate system that I use on my bench. Think of it as a strong mount on steroids. You may want to check-in with Gavin on his site ultimatereloader.com . Believe he uses a t-track system on his bench if memory serves. Oh, and welcome back to the land of reloading! M Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

^^^^this... Dillon, Hornady and RCBS have all built loyal followings through outstanding customer support (and superior products in most cases). Mark VII appears more focused on the technology and modernizing the end product rather than continuing that tradition. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

...but given the component cost and the need to reload each round individually by hand, it begs the question: how are you getting a flipped primer when loading .50BMG? ;-) M Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Anyone see an appreciable difference between Hi-Tek Supercoat and Powder Coating? M Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

RickT, what kind of bullets are you loading? Would it be possible to bell the cases a little less? I too had problems initially with my FBB - my first experience with the owners bedside manner. The natural inclination is to crank the plate down as Dillon instructs, but the FBB needs a little float. Just a little - to much and you will have similar problems. You really need a feeler gauge to set the plate in FBB's recommended range. I will set the gauge in the last station where rounds eject and tighten everything down good and snug while the gauge is in place. The last thing I do is pull the feeler gauge out. I have 20k+ rounds of 9mm through the MarkVII now and use several other FBB plates on a manual 1050 (all with the stock shuttle springs) and have had maybe 2-3 failures since? Just a non-issue now. M Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

I have everything to start casting with a ladle and then coating... was waiting for cooler weather and haven't started yet. Interested to follow along and hear from others. Thanks for starting the thread. M PS would love to have an MC! Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Graf's or Dillon direct - they will get you whatever you ask for. I have not found anyone that's been able to fill Brian's shoes for exceptional sales support and for lack of a better term; truly caring his customers got what they wanted and/or needed with out a bunch of fluff or extras that really weren't needed. M Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Consistent primer depth does matter and only a mechanical means can provide the necessary consistency stroke after stroke. FWIW, the LNL priming system is horrid and the 1050 not only allows you to set consistent depth, but it primes on the down-stroke - totally eliminating the need for feel. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

I'll add one more. I shoot a 147g PD flat point and it took some fiddling to adjust initially but have had zero issues once the MBF was set. M Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

I grew frustrated enough with the occasional flipped primer and tweaking that I sold my pair of RF 100’s. Even with the PALS I replaced them with a pair - one for large and one for small primers. Two’s the way to go. M Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Reread post #18 to better understand why Twins deserved the guff received. This is a great community, willing to share a wealth of information, but as the old adage goes “don’t bite the hand that feeds you.” Oh, and you are welcome. Glad we could help you with your swager. M Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Which pictures? You have had 3 different folks post... M Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

I pick-up range brass and sort by headstamp after depriming and cleaning. For giggles, I grabbed some Wolf and LC brass. Based on your description, I still think you may be overswaging, but having done a small sample side-by-side part of your problem is that Wolf brass. It took substantially more effort to swage than the LC. Any-who, below are three rounds of each top to bottom: crimped, swaged only and cut with a pocket reamer only... And a shot of the spacing on my Super Swage cammed over... Note that even with an In-Line Fabrication insert, swaged pockets are still not perfectly concentric - not that it makes a hill of beans difference for loading shoot’em up ammo on a progressive. How exactly are the cases being ruined by the Super Swage? M Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Should have mentioned I do that every 25 rounds when running a press manually. When I first got my Mk7 I was doing it every hundred rounds when stoping to load primers. Now? Once it’s set on the Mk7, I’m lucky if I do it every 1K rounds - it’s that consistent. M Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

The De-cap Sense was made redundant when the Swage Sense came out. I’ll respectfully disagree on the powder-sense, more often than not that’s where most problems are found/caught in my reloading sessions. I’d say it’s a toss-up as to my number 1: Bullet-Sense or Powder-Sense. What do I own that I consider Necessary? 1) Bullet-Sense, 2) Powder-Sense, 3) Low Primer-Sense and 4) Swage-Sense. I have a sensor on the powder hopper, but with a Unique-tek extended tube, that’s not really necessary. I have the de-cap sensor, only because I had it before the Swage-Sense was available. Nothing else. What I would like to see is a true round counter, rather than counting press cycles. That would be cool, but I haven’t seen a pressing need for much else. M Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Me to. There is a limitation to how much brass the shorter can hold and that’s what I’ll generally bag and spritz. I’m typically running 3K rounds in a session on a Mk7 and don’t see where it’s particularly time consuming or inefficient. Heck, you gotta have something to do while the thing runs! M Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

I’d be more concerned about condensation and potential rust before temperature. M Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Along with what others have mentioned, if I have a round that doesn’t seat flush, I’ll try it in another hole before pitching it in the practice/pull apart bin. More often than not it’s a kernel of powder gumming the works up that just needs to be blown out. M PS never had much luck with CBC. I sort and reload *-* (Starline), WIN (and derivatives), R•P, FC (old Federal), .FC. (New Federal including derivatives Speer, Blazer) - and Reload them in just about that order. PMC I’ll keep just in case, but everything else goes to another reloader with less discriminating tastes in brass. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

+1 Just not worth the effort or risk. M Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Are you seeking assistance or a pulpit from which to complain? And talk of being constructive? Do you not get that several folks have tried to help and you have chosen to be argumentative rather than answer questions or post pictures so we could better understand how to assist you? Miranda is on the right track. If your “other presses” are functioning so well, then continue using them and put the 650 up for sale. For a “POS” you will be surprised they hold their value exceptionally well. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

I pull the case off prior to the powder drop. Tare the empty case with primer on the scale. Replace, cycle and weight to get the amount of powder. Back on the shell plate and don't miss a beat. Easy-peezy and second nature now... M Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk

I’m a brass hoar as well. Blows my mind to see the waste when on the range, but GrumpyOne’s right - there’s lots of it and saving a couple of ¢’s vs the cost of a new firearm and more importantly your safety and those of your fellow shooters, it’s not worth it. Keep filling that bucket, sell it for scrap and use the cash for other reloading components. M Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

In Line Fabrication makes a Delrin insert that looks pretty simple, but helps align the case and swage rod. If nothing else, it does help speed up the process. FWIW, roll the swage rod on a piece of glass. They can bend. That was my introduction to Dillon’s awesome customer service - despite my mistake, Dillon replaced the rod, no questions asked. M Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

That’s definitely a sign of using excess lubricant. It really on takes just a whiff to get the job done. Again, suggest you try just a couple of light spritzes. As for not using a plastic bag for pistol rounds, I disagree. If, for arguments sake, there were appreciable lubricant entering the case mouth would it not serve the same purpose if using an expander die or for belling the case mouth? If there is enough lubricant entering the case to wreak havoc then too much is being applied. M Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk