Chevyz71

Since Brian retired as a Dillon Dealer, who is the go to for Dillon?

Do you have a case gauge? You should use that to see if you are sizing your cases enough or too much. If sizing too much you could be overworking your brass. what caliber are you reloading? Is this range pick up brass? Your brass could have been fired through a glock. I use a case pro on all of my brass to remove the bulge.

Are your dies touching the shell plate at the bottom of the stroke? And then camming over?

I have both 1050s and 650s. I use my 1050s to process my brass because of the built in swager. So much easier to process brass in 1 pass. I know Dillon says the 650 wasn't designed to handle the force of staging and will void the warranty.... With that said, has anyone ever used something like the swage rod backer (like on a 1050)? Or one of the expander rod mandrels to help support the brass on the 650? always wondered if that would help?

I have and use the Hornady Camlock. Seems to work well for me, but i've only used it a couple times on pistol rounds but a lot on rifle bullets. I use this on a Dillon 650

That will be priced cheaper than the Oehler 35P. Im interested in one. I'd buy one, but at this rate, I think by the time they are ready for sale, my grandkids will be the ones using it.

Rimcrew - I had kind of the same experience with the GSI collator. I purchased one a couple months ago in 40SW. The collator just wouldnt feed the 165gr bullets. I tried everything and I didnt get alot of help from GSI. I left many messages (phone and email) and never got a return call or email. I put it on fleabay and it sold in about 5 minutes. I puchased the mrbulletfeeder instead. If not for the issues with the collator, I would probably still have the GSI. I like the GSI toolhead that feeds and seats in 1 station and still allows the powder check. I would prefer the Mr bullet feeder style collator with the GSI toolhead, would give you the best of both worlds. But now I have the mrbulletfeeder and I like it. took about 10 minutes to set up and I was loading ammo.

Here is my experience with adding things to the push rod. Has happend twice in about 19 years. http://www.brianenos.com/forums/index.php?showtopic=195416&hl= Needless to say, I don't have brass on my push rods anymore. Chevy

I'll give that a try jmorris. I know you gave a casepro already. Have you made your own yet?

Yes I have resized this brass in my Dillon dies and it will not get the bulge out fully. I know this becase the resized brass will not fit into a Dillon case gauge. My resizing die is down as far as it can go on both a 650 and a 1050. it is the brass not the dies or the press. I was only asking for suggestions because I have a such a huge amount of brass that is bulge. ( This is brass I have tossed aside because it will not drop into the gauge freely) With the shear volume of brass that I have, the casepro would be nice. The price and availability make it not a reasonable option.

Thanks for the suggestions

HAHA Ken, I already have several STIs, tell me about the great buys on STIs??? haha I have range pick up brass that was shot from Glocks and is "glocked" so 2 people say GRX, 1 for the Lee , 1 for the EGW... of course all of the solutions are about 1K cheaper than a full set up for a case pro..... Thanks yall

Anyone have a recommendation to remove the Glock Bulge? I have 5gallon bucket of Glocked 40SW brass. Is the Lee Bulge Buster any good? EGW u die? Redding GXR ? I know they dont address the extracter groove, but these are all affordable. or do you all recommend the casepro? Are there any alternatives? has anyone made their own? Thanks

Try taking your small primer disc and flipping it over. I had issues before and noticed one one side fo the primer disc each hole appears to be slightly chamferred. I called customer service and the Dillon guy told me to flip the disc. Never had a problem since. (well did have that kaboom the other day)... but that was caused by something else. Hope that helps.

When I was buying conversion sets for some other 650s I have, i found it easier to use the spreadsheet that is on the link that Brian listed. Once I did that, I only needed a few parts to make the other conversions. Considering the 650 conversion kits are $77.95, I saved a ton of money. Buy some of the kits and see which parts overlap, and only order the parts you need and you can save alot of money. I would buy the quick change kits and dies though. Just my $.02