Want2BS8ed

Sorry for the late reply, but I run both 147g 9mm round nose and truncated cones without problems. I could see where the shorter .380's might be difficult, but I don't have any personal experience. M Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Does that qualify? Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

There are those that make things happen, those that watch things happen and those that ask what the hell just happened. Less talking and more doing (and a healthy dose of using a search function) might help you. If you are going to ask questions or for folks thoughts after making wild claims, be prepared for the answers without complaining or arguing. Hell no! Are you? I am going to call you on that. How exactly do you do that safely? Any primer manufacturers or reloading manuals willing to accept the liability for those instructions you can reference? True, it is a possibility, however with the RF100: 2 to 3 flipped primers for every 2,000 fed through it. Since changing methods, over 20,000 rounds through a MarkVII driven S1050 and zero flipped primers. That's statistically significant enough to determine the press was not at fault. No drama, just facts. I'm glad it's working for you. Interesting that as this is being written the second most active topic in the Dillon forum at the moment is someone having problems with there RF100 - someone we both have tried to help. No, I save what few accumulate and periodically take them to a local store/range where I purchased my first press and they offered to dispose of them safely. Sorry if that didn't work out quite the way you wanted it to. I have some 38 Special 148g lead wad cutters with a medium crimp that might test that theory. It really depends on what you are dissembling, how it's crimped and what you are using to take it apart. In the OP's case inferring from his other thread that he's primarily going to load 9mm, 223 and 300BLK; as long as he's not loading plated or lead bullets, then yes the components are likely recoverable (unless the primer is flipped of course). Is this another of those broad brush things or are you being dramatic now? I don't recall anyone who had actually used one badmouthing it. Expressing frustration, providing experiences yes, but nobody called it a piece of junk. Again glad you are happy with yours. I'm happy with my solution. Let's go back to the original post based on theory and conjecture being made by someone with no hands on experience with the RF100: the RF100 is a "very, very expensive solution to a problem that shouldn't exist" rounded out with a claim they could hunt and peck with a flip tray faster. Can we at least agree that both of those claims are false based on our combined experiences? M Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

You do like drama. Based on your other thread, when you purchase your first progressive press, maybe you will come to appreciate the time savings. Less time reloading is more time on the range. Wait a second... you are afraid to handle a primer tube full of primers, but you are willing to decap a live primer? An upside down live primer? Please don't. As much as the video would be an epic candidate for the Darwin Awards, it's not safe. Could you render the primer inert? Maybe. Then again maybe not. Is the time worth the savings and more importantly the risk of injury? And as for your bullet puller, what kind? Impact or collet? What kind of bullet; lead, plated or FMJ? Crimped rounds? Tapered or rolled? You might get a FMJ bullet back out of a taper crimped round using an impact puller, but if the bullet is soft or roll crimped its likely toast. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

It can be frustrating. One of my two took several adjustments to the Stabilizer Plate before hitting that magic spot where it all came together and began working. The other was good to go out of the box (occasional flipped primers excluded). Using a mouse pad and/or slightly tilting the filler forward didn't help in my case, but seems to have worked for others. And again anecdotally, Winchester primers seem to be a bit more sensitive. What really drove me nuts, when you found that 1 in 1,000 it was a completed round with a flipped primer so you not only lost the primer, but the case, powder and possibly the bullet as well. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Then there is no need to panic or over dramatize. That "really, really expensive solution" the RF100 doesn't need to fix is actually "way safer", because it uses a double wall primer tube. Whew, it's not only faster than hunting and pecking primers from a flip tray, but it's also safer to boot! Ah, you did not complete your homework assignment Bronco. If they are all the same, how could one possibly be better than the other? Oh, I had a bad morning at the range and am feeling ornery, so how broad is that brush painting "others"? "Unlike the RF100 where you can dump primers and walk away, so it does take longer" wasn't acknowledgement enough? However there still remains a caveat: are all 100 primers heading in the same direction? 1 in 1,000 wasn't acceptable at least to me, so a slower but more reliable method was found. Really no different from the discussions around powder checks and case gauging ammunition - it all really boils down to personal preference and tolerance for risk. Take our OP. He's going to buy a $20,000 machine so he doesn't have to handle primer tubes ;-) M

Why does the seem way safer? Look at your video, fire-up your google-fu and do a search on Camdex and then for an RF100 parts diagram. Report back if anything looks familiar. Yes, primers do detonate in presses. It's not common, but it does happen. Do a search here in these forums. It's discussed fairly regularly. And no a Mark VII can't detect a flipped primer. For those that asked, I went from a pair of RF100's to a pair of PALs. While it fills 100 primers much faster (with zero flips) than an RF100, you have to hold it unlike the RF100 where you can dump primers and walk away, so it does take longer. Both of my RF100's would reliably fill 100 primers, however I was getting 2-3 flipped primers per 2,000 rounds. I wanted something more reliable - even at the cost of time and convenience. I have a dozen primer tubes I'll fill before starting a loading session on the Mark VII. In between every 100 rounds, I'll either be loading more primer tubes with the PALS or be manually loading rounds on another press. The time difference is nominal and valued in my opinion for ensuring 100% reliability. FWIW, I typically use Winchester primers which, at least anecdotally perusing these forums, appear to give the RF100's more problems. I haven't found that to be the case with the PALS. Bronco9588, have you finished your homework assignments yet? Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Add another to the plus column and IMHO works better than alternatives from Hornady. Certainly is much quieter! M Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

You are way over analyzing this. Buy a press first and then determine that loading primer tubes is your limiting factor. Then consider how many primers your willing to detonate at one time. Even on a fully automated 1050, stopping every 100 rounds to fill the primer tube (cases, bullets and occasionally powder as well) it only drops the round count from 1,800 rounds an hour to somewhere between 1,600-1,700. Small price to pay for the margin of safety it affords. M PS oh and I just sold my two RF100's (hated the occasional flipped primer), but there is no way you are going to hunt and peck faster through a couple thousand primers than a primer filler; RF100, PALS or Vibra-Prime Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Nothing wrong with them. They are good dies. Might want to pick up some locking die rings for them (I've always liked Hornady's split design) because as you have found out, the o-ring does a great job of locking the die to a press, but it won't allow repeatable removal and replacement. Lock tight will work, but there is a better way of doing it. M Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

FWIW and to follow-on Alan's post; Lyman, RCBS, Hornady and Redding all have locking die rings that will make using the same head easier (you had mentioned you might be doing this). Dillon and Lee lack the feature. I have no personal experience with CH4D or Forster dies although I think the Forster have locking rings as well. Dillon does make very good dies though with some features unique to progressive loaders including wide entry mouths and rapid takedown on seating and crimping dies. You are likely to get even more opinions on die preferences than press preferences and every die maker has something going for them. Most of my heads are a mix of different manufacturers, but for the time being I would recommend you stick with Dillon dies until there is a specific reason you would want to use someone else's. M Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

I'm not sure why that impression is so persistent, because it simply isn't the case. Swapping a head or shell plate is relatively quick on the 1050 (as it is on the 550 and 650). There is value in the 1050's ability to expand cases, swage primer pockets, prime on the down stoke to consistent depths and easily add a bullet feeder or powder check while maintaining separate seating and crimping stations - but it all comes at a price. If you are reloading multiple calibers, it gets expensive very quickly to setup separate heads. The decision is ultimately one of finances. Either way you can't really go wrong if you are in the OP's shoes and you can afford it. M PS aren't the Mark VII's awesome? But good-googly-moogly... if an automated 650 is a Caddie what's a Mark VII driven 1050? Oh wait... I think may have answered that^^^ Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Not really (especially if you are loading 9mm and 223 because they both use small primers). More expensive? Definitely, but once setup a head/shell plate swap is a snap and you don't have to make any further adjustments. Setting up a new caliber takes two additional steps - setting the swager and primer seating depth. Features not available on a 650 and once set, they are set. Primer seating on the down stroke is a beautiful thing, but what no one has mentioned is the ability to set primer seating depth. If you want .002" below flush you can set it and get consistent results rather than relying on feel - all from above, so once done the setting stays with the head. Not a big deal for volume pistol loading, but important for rifle. Another difference I found I prefer on the 1050, the dies move up and down rather than the shell plate. The shell plate still rotates, but there is a lot less movement for powder to spill, bullets to topple or components to become misaligned. In the end the 1050 not only gets you more volume in a shorter amount of time, but it provides more consistent reloads... that alone makes the cost worthwhile to me. M Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

I never had a problem with an RF100 feeding a primer. It was the flipped primer or two per 1,000 that always drove me nuts! Use a PAL so I get to watch everything fall now. No more flipped primers. M Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

I have never dealt with Lee, but have always had outstanding customer service from Dillion, Hornady and RCBS. Good to know there are still folks out there that understand and practice good customer service. M Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Curious... why? Have folks been having problems running that setup? Thanks, M Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk

Can't go wrong with it. Works well. One tip if you have a Dremel tool and can spare a case; cut the case open the way Dillon did in their manual. It makes adjusting the swage rod and case backer so much easier. I just did that for the first time in setting up a new head to process 300 Blackout and it saved gobs of time over doing it by feel/trial and error. M Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

As Lee Corso says on Game Day: "Not so fast..." I don't load .45 on the MarkVII (do that manually on another 1050) so the small vs large primer isn't much of an issue , and in ~17k+ rounds of 9mm I have had exactly zero pierced primers or ringers. Do I take comfort in knowing it would be caught if there were one? Sure, but that doesn't move it to the top of the list based on my experience. This is very true and you don't have to clean it either. Have both, but If you could only choose one or the other, then the SwageSense wins hands down. IF (if being the operative word) you remember to reset the monitor each time you load primers. The decision was made for me as the PrimerSense was still included with the drive when I got mine, but if really pressed to choose just one sensor to add on, this would probably be at the top of my list. Important? Not really, but it sure as heck is a lot more convenient! You lost me here... Are you actually sitting there at 1,800 rounds an hour and visually checking every single round as it's processed? Why automate if you are not going to really automate? I load the press up, hit run and turnaround to either fill primer tubes or more likely crank away on the other 1050 on a lessor used round like .308, .45 or 10mm. At 100 rounds the PrimerSense stops the machine. Load a 100 primers in, add a handful of cases, a handful of bullets, check the XL powder hopper, press the run button and Bob's your Uncle. You are back in business cranking out rounds on two presses at the same time. Now I hated giving up separate seating and swaging stations for the PowderSense, but from a safety perspective, this would be the most important sensor to have IMO - especially on an automated machine where you could not possibly inspect every single round visually the same way you would if you were manually operating the press. The only thing that might PO me more than a flipped primer, is a seated and crimped round with the bullet's rear end wagging up at you or dumping a loaded case of powder in a bin with roughly 1.5K to 2K of loaded rounds still covered in case lubricant. Both of which the new BulletSense has eliminated. So if process efficiency and convenience are most important to you; get the PrimerSense. If safety and piece of mind is of paramount concern; get the PowderSense. If efficiency and near set-it and forget-it automation are at the top of your list, then get the BulletSense. Oh hell's bells - just get them all :-) M Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

If ease of adjusting the bullet feeding die is the only criteria, then the Hornady wins. I find both the Hornady and MBF's to be a pain to adjust initially, but the MBF's collator / bullet flipper is superior IMO. It's also a lot quieter. All that having been said, given the cost involved, I'm not sure the juice is worth the squeeze in doing a full-fledged swap out. M Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

The judicious use of shim brass where the case feed bracket meets the square support for the case feeder solved my tipping problems for .223 cases. M Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

This and adding a star washer to lock the shell plate in place. As others have already mentioned, small adjustments on the pawls go a long way and it's pretty easy to over adjust. It's also an easy fix as long as you haven't chipped the corner off or just plain worn out a pawl. The priming system is the LNL's Achilles Heel. I shimmed, polished and adjusted a pair of LNL's to near perfection, but never could tame the priming system completely. M Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Congratulations! Buy once, cry once. You won't regret the extra controllability. There is a good user group here on BE, so if you run into problems or have questions, shout out! M Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

I thought I was the only one that had managed to do that... at least the tablet is easy to get apart to retrieve the SD card! M Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

800 rounds of 220gr Sierra Matchking subsonic goodness in 300 Blackout. FFB plate and Level-10 bearing kits rock! M

There is a whole new level that awaits you when you don't have to pull a handle.... :-) Are you running any military brass? Curious what happens without the backing rod with the swag rod in place. In the process of doing a caliber conversion at the moment from 10mm Auto to 300 Blackout Subs, FFB plate and all. Just finished adjusting the the M1 Carbine expander and small primer swager. It is a thing of beauty when everything runs smoothly! M Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk