lwink

+1 on that, for the price you can find them at they are pretty great. I have 4 or 5 of these in the 2.5-3# range - flat or curved is up to you and your personal preference. I have 2 elftman guns, they are also great but definitely come at a heftier price, and not sure I can take advantage of some of their tech you're paying for. One elftman 3-gun model required some tuning but it is great now and breaks like glass, no overtravel to speak of. Twice the price of the CMC on the street, but had to scratch that itch and don't regret it. Also haven't done it again Have one Timney Comp, that is maybe the closest to my bolt guns, but I had to swap firing pins to get reliable ignition, think it must've had pretty light hammer spring? Don't know if I'd trust it as much as other triggers but I do love it for what it's on now (a coyote long range rig). Most recent two triggers I bought because of a sale were Velocity with the interchangeable shoe, so far they are great, although a bit heavier in pull but I don't mind that on certain guns. A crisp 3.5-4#'s. I'm only 1K rounds in no issues and no reason I wouldn't buy again at the pricepoint. All that said - I usually look for CMC first and unless I find something else for a better deal from this list that's what I'll get. Never had an issue with install or going bang

Talon that's the stuff I was actually looking for, have some birchwood casey touch up stuff. Assume it's all the same from different manufacturers just a different label. Tony - the never fail solution!!! And the cheapest option!

I've used something as simple as sharpie for small surface scratches on receivers and scopes before. Next step up that actually lasts on handled parts in my mind is: https://www.foreinnovations.com/product_p/pen_black.htm There are homebrew anodization kits as well, but I've never experimented with them. https://www.caswellplating.com/anodize-touch-up-kit.html I'd rather just dive in and do the whole thing as a diy duracoat, alumahyde, etc. Had good luck with those if care is taken and you have basic tools and a place to work.

Is there any method to the larger distribution? horizontal or vertical or just all over? I'm with everyone here, plus a couple thoughts: 1. Verify torque and alignment on scope bases, rings, etc. Down the road maybe even swap scopes with a known performer if you have one to rule that variable out. Check action screws are torqued appropriately - Even on a chassis I'd consider bedding it. 2. Are you going from new brass to once fired brass? Check your sizing method and gear if that's the case. 3 Perform a proper ladder test or at least accuracy node test. Sharing those results will probably help diagnose as well. 4. Same lot of brass, bullets, powder etc? Shouldn't be a crazy difference in much of that but it can happen. 5. Maybe try a few random factory loads and see if there is something that's much better or worse? 6. Get a chamber casting if you're really interested in that, then you'll know for sure what it looks like in there and can decide if a rebarrel is worth it or not. 7. Bore scope the thing and see what it looks like inside, although I've had barrels that looked like the surface of the moon shoot lights out and mirror finish flawless ones not get where I wanted, so that's a deep dark rabbit hole Just a few of the 10,000 things to consider

As far as accuracy I haven't been disappointed in any of the mid-upper range I've used. I would think that weight, balance, and gas system would be a fair bit more important for most. Love my stretch 16, have a lilja that shoots great but is a bit heavier (not fluted), wilson combat that works great, and a few from ballistic advantage that were bargain barrels. Just got a faxon pencil barrel 16" that is showing good signs of life and love the weight/balance of that rig, and cost! If it really is for 3 gun I wouldn't go above 16 personally, but if it's a multipurpose rig and you're not making a living off the sport a longer barrel compromise may be fine. As tony said 2" is great accuracy for what you'd need, when moving and shooting offhand or in less than ideal situations that's as good or better than most will do, but if you're anything like me you just want to know your gun will do better than that, so I understand. Also play with ammo - For example my lilja will shoot .3 moa with 69 grain sierras, less than 1 with about anything I shove down the tube. My faxon will spray a few inches with a lot of 55 grain - but tightens up to .75" with 62gr fiocchi. Play around with brand and weight and you may have a winner in there. If you're looking to invest in your rig I'd start with gas, bolt, and buffer system - and ammo - then a barrel is an easy swap down the road and you won't have wasted anything assuming gas journal diameter stays the same. Love my JP low mass system and have a couple iron city/taccom buffer systems that treat me well.

Nice video! I hadn't seen that one yet, will have to keep an eye on Patrick's channel for any further videos! Last 30 seconds are sure exciting when he mentions all the models on the way!!

Been a savage rifle fanboy for 20+ years (in fact shot my first deer with one 25 years ago). Saw some info on a new scattergun they have called the Renegauge. Also confused by the back story as press releases go back 2 years but it seems like it's just releasing in 2020. Looks like an interesting and well built gas gun and comes in at a price point that would leave me hoping it's a good reliable shooter. They also advertise it as incredibly fast cycling, not that I've ever considered outshooting a gun's cyclic rate, sure some on here do. Anyway, anyone on here seen one of these or heard anything?? And will they end up being a 3 gun contender since they will come out with most likely no aftermarket support? Although did see it comes stock with adjustable stock and uses benelli chokes... so maybe a tube extension compatibility is possible? Love to know more if anyone here has info or seen/handled one firsthand. Or secondhand. https://www.recoilweb.com/new-release-savage-renegauge-semi-auto-shotgun-155765.html

Interesting, didn't think that would be possible. Was this compressed air (canned or from a compressor)?

Anyone tried air for the diode? Granted it's a bit different, but I'll only clean camera sensors (inside the body once the lens is removed) with a special kit that amounts to small bursts of air from something like a blood pressure cuff pump with inflation needle on the end of it. Depending how recessed the emitter is i wonder if a cleaning solution and swab could leave more residue? Although alcohol swabs followed by air could be a great compromise. Will follow closely to see what the consensus is and if anyone is able to reach out to a manufacturer who actually has an answer?

+1 on the 11.5" barrel. But feel free to make up your own mind based on ballistics lost and what range you're wanting to use this for. And what you are using it for Everything has a tradeoff. I've had zero reliability issues with built uppers in this range - with no adjustable gas I'd play with H2 buffers and experiment adding or subtracting one tungsten weight. i have a cheaper H3 and standard carbine buffer I use for tuning so you can effectively build everything from standard to H3 and shoot, watch your brass ejection piles. I'm a big fan of adjustable blocks, even cheaper ones like the seekins that have a set and forget mentality, but I understand a lot of folks are hardcore against them on antyhing that needs to be 100% failproof every time. So much variety out there with different manufacturer's, but with the ability to change buffer weight and adjust gas I've never not had a .223 run well. If you really want one more step up grab the JP silent capture with adjustable weights and springs, but that's going to add a couple hundred bucks onto your rig. That system plus adjustable gas is pretty killer, and I love how smooth it is.

They are cheap but I don't hate my old strike eagle 1-6, in fact just bough another. You can spend twice as much for not much more in my opinion. They are by far the cheapest scopes I own but for what I want them for (0-400 yards range conditions) I'm happy. I do have one sig Tango 1-6 that I think is a couple shades better in less than ideal conditions, and have seen them for under $700 as open box/demo in the past 6 months. Better reticle for longer range in my mind as well. If I saw that again and was in the market I'd snatch a spare! For reference, I shoot mostly bolt actions longer range and have use scopes in the 24-30x range like zeiss v6, leupold vx6, and one razor, so I'm not an expert in the LPVO world. Take it with a grain of salt. PST's (gen 1 or 2) have never impressed me that much for glass quality, although the features are great. I still love vortex for what they are but don't think that line measures up for my needs on most guns. I'd pay a bit more for a pst for durabiltiy over the strike eagle if you're wanting that, as well as the added features, not necessarily much more $$ for better glass.

Shilen does make a nice matched set but is not cheap. After a few trial and errors I put a wilson combat barrel with jp high pressure bolt , headspace checked out ok, and have had good feeding and great accuracy (.5-.6MOA) off the bench with factory ammo and hitting 8" steel out to 600 with ease. Haven't had a chance to go further but that makes me happy with a budget-ish gun and no hand loading. Like many the JP bolt was a lifesaver for me, did not use the whole JP carrier though. Edit: Don't know how much love/hate there is on this site but Christensen makes a 6.5CM barrel and my experience with their bolt guns has been pretty stellar. Again, go this route if you want to spend more, save weight, and get a jp bolt headspaced by you or a smith.

All good info, thanks guys. For reference it’s the m5 receiver not proprietary enhanced version. after finishing it up, shooting and hunting it it came in alright. Haven’t put it on the scale yet but guessing under 10 with scope and mag. Saved almost 3/4 pound on the scope/mount going with a more hunting friendly setup. Leupold vx6 over razor/Steiner options. To do it all again would consider a few hundred more for a carbon barrel, but can’t complain on how it shoots!

Fair - although that’s off the table for modification Too much $$ spent to call it a paper weight. It’s about 42oz, no muzzle device, which isn’t bad for 22” - especially compared to any of my bolt guns.

Love the 10.5 for certain applications but... I need a hand stop or my fingers can creep too far on a 9” handguard (6’ with average wingspan) and ballistically it’s pretty terrible compared to 11.5”. Ballistics of expected round is where I’d focus on my decision. How far will you actually need to engage with this? If your’e keeping things close quarter I think I’d go 10.5” again. If if there’s a chance for longer range engagement go 11.5” for the extra energy at range (and the extra inch if handguard is perfect for me).

Built up a 6.5 CM AR with “average” components. Light handguard and 22” barrel - but it’s still a bit heavier than I hoped. Aero upper/lower Standard bolt carrier Standard parts kit slr sentry 7 gas block magpul moe rifle stock (was thinking prs but talk about heavy!) Warne x-skel mount Thinking of swapping out to lightweight bcg which should be 4-6 ounces off. Questions: 1.) What’s your experience with lightweight BCG in these setups? What carrier, how does it run, weight savings compared to standard? Right now have standard rifle buffer but not opposed to Jp silent capture or something?? 2.) Any other obvious places to save weight without spending a fortune you guys see?

Kind of a stray from the recent posts, but back to the first ? In the op I've used Lapua brass for everything. Started that way on my first long range gun and have used it for everything since. Very consistent and durable and outside of price have no complaints or reason to change. If I wasn't picking all my brass up sure my answer would be different though!

Got a newer gun that has a synthetic stock that I don't shoot as well as some. That may be a nice way of putting it - it's a little short and low for my lanky frame. My actual trap gun in an over under with fully adjustable and fitted furniture, it's a dream. My question is have any of you had luck finding someone that will work through fitting on synthetic stocks as well?? I'm in front range colorado but would travel or ship if needed.

Really love the look, finish, and customer service I got from iron city. Got the C4V gold color coating and it is as easy to clean as advertised. If not better. Not a bad price either!!

Very true - after reading this I just called and had a conversation where I was walked through each of the 4 coating options with the pros and cons, and the TiN (C4V) is where I settled. Can't wait to get it in the gun! Very patient and helpful guy over there at Iron City, and he didn't tell me to buy the most expensive part...

Scope height should also be considered, especially on larger objective scopes or anything that sits above your bore a ways. A good ballistics program will have a field for this as the angles it makes you shoot at definitely show up downrange. Can take good measurements of scope and barrel under bell with calipers and divide each by 2 then use feeler gauges or guess with calipers to add the space between scope and barrel. May or may not help but figured I'd throw it your way.

This one did win the muzzle brake shootout twice I believe for percent recoil reduction on ar rifles! Price isn't bad either

+1 Never had one in 338 LM, but several other calibers in that same lineup and many of them flat out shoot, while the "bad" ones have still hit .5-.75MOA with enough load work. Even better when you shoot that barrel out (or get bored) you can throw a new match quality one on it yourself for under $400 chambered and threaded for your action and brake already.

Was going to send this same link, awesome info based on what you need. I have several brakes from Jim at Centershot rifles and they do work well! Both the blast tamer and Muscle brake, they are a bit heavy though, compared to brakes of similar size. I know the APA Little Bas**** is "most effective" and I do like the way it sits on a varmint barrel/it's size and weight, but holy cow I shot it once in the field without hearing protection (yell at me if you want) and I will never under any circumstances do that again. I've done this with other brakes for hunting and it wasn't nearly the bad experience.

I have a jp brake and just took it off for the first time after 500 rounds... the amount of hardened carbon completely covering the crown was shocking, and I clean traditionally way more than most I'd guess. Soaking the barrel every few hundred rounds would probably help keep it clean, but I will regularly remove all my brakes now to make sure I get them clean. I do like my jp brake but it is about as loud as a miculek, both very effective. I just got the Seekins ATC and have really enjoyed shooting it, noticeably quieter for the shooter (may not be a factor) and it really keeps my barrel almost movement free even on a standard weight bcg with rifle gas. Also very easy on and off with no crush washer to replace.