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I'm still liking my Stretch16, but don't consider it cheap. I had a lilja (18") made early on and it'll shoot well under 1/2" at 100 yards with good factory or my handloads. I've used some Odins, they make a light profile, and had good accuracy out of 3-4 of those now. I also have a couple faxons that have shot quite well in 16" with their gunner and pencil profiles 8 twist. I would absolutely buy another one of them, easily at or under 1 MOA with most decent ammo I've put through. Final note, got my first BA, and was pleasantly surprised. Hanson series 8 twist - hangs in there with many much more expensive tubes and don't think it would hold most back as far as accuracy for run and gun. That being said, I may have gotten a good one, but knowing others who have shot them and reading online I think they are doing some good stuff down there for the price! There you have a few options across the price spectrum, I'm sure everyone has a list but that's my $0.02. Right now maybe whatever is in stock is a good one to get though Kinda sad out there unfortunately, but with persistence you'll find what you're after

Don’t know if this is right or wrong, but one alignment with can installed with whatever method is used (qd system, thread mount, etc) then I’ll trust the mechanical repeatability as long as nothing changes on the system. In my mind it defeats the purpose of a quick detach system to go through an alignment every time you swap platforms. Fyi I’m using silencerco with both asr and direct thread options for different applications.

I went the route of a used M3k for a great price then got a carbon arms tube and did all the custom work I was interested in - was looking for an M3k freedom and glad I went the way I did. From what I understand most are doing port work on the freedom anyway, and I'd say the one piece polished design of the CA tube is pretty nice. Haven't found a cheap wal-mart load the gun won't munch yet and it points and handles well for me, which is probably more important out of the box than almost anything else. I've had very nice shotguns that ate a lot of money for fitting in addition to the price tag so I could hit something with them - if you haven't shot both yet do yourself the favor, decision may become quite clear. I'd upvote the Franchi as well - had the pleasure of using several for hunting and target from friends and family - if I didn't have a low budget for initial buy that would've probably been my #1 choice just cause they look prettier. That being said, now that I've had the stoeger for almost a year and seeing how it handles and performs, not sure I'd do it any differently next time.

I have 3 atlas s ones on different rigs and really do like them, and the attachment method. I don't beat them up so can't comment on overall durability, but they sure are nice to time and install. Profile is great - assuming your gas block fits. I did have one gas block I had to return because it was a bit fat. That being said, my theory is "weight is a bit subjective". For example, I have a 3 gun rig that is pretty light - stretch 16 barrel with JP comp, Light Handguard, JP lightweight bcg, taccom buffer setup etc. Then another that is actually a full pound heavier with a pretty burly handguard, same fluted barrel length and profile, no muzzle device. Everyone who shoots them comments on how light the "heavy" on is - It's always surprising because I spent so much making one light and it's not that gets the comments - but I think it is weight out front. In 3 gun I don't know you need light overall as much as super fast handling, which is at the end of the day balance. I won't, but I assume if I took the JP off the stretch 16 it would noticeably change the ergos and make that rig feel light. All that to say, I echo the barrel nut weight being fine to play with if it makes you feel better or you are really looking for a certain threshold, but if you're looking to invest you could hunt down a titanium comp and even gas block and save just a couple ounces at the point where it matters the absolute most for quick transitions. Just my $.02

Good info RGA, thanks!

It is a rifle, however I have several other rifle powder funnels for the 550 and best I can tell they go into the case not around the outside.

Presumably then if I have a dedicated expander in station 1 this will work, as the brass would’ve already gone through a full sizing and trimming before the final loading pass so Thai station isn’t currently used in my bottleneck loading? This 0.5mm undersized funnel won’t flare the case, but since this would be done in step 1 all I need to to do is have the funnel deposit powder into the case without spillage.

I am new to dillon loading, have a 550 setup. Toying with spinning up some 6.5 creedmoor loads - I know the shell plate/locator buttons will be the same as components I already have, but would it be functional to use a 243/6mm rem powder funnel rather than a dedicated 6.5 funnel? Not 100% sure how this setup indexes and dispenses, let me know if you think or know that this will/won’t work - and why so I can lean a bit on the system. Thanks!

Stockade is good if you don’t mind waiting for a custom, Kevin is top notch with some good options, will Inlet for their aics compatible bottom metal. HS or a bell and Carlson comes stock with inletting for bottom metal take aics mags. manners makes some savage inlets with bottom metal that takes aics style too. I have all the above, all with pros and cons. Happy to chat more if you want more info, fell free to pm me.

Welcome, and thanks for starting GlockTalk. I know I, and many others on here, have probably been on that site and benefited from the info it provides.

No doubt good stuff - the idea of starting trigger pull early was a thing I started naturally doing, was a good affirmation first time I saw these tips. And Langdon is also the place to go for your Beretta double action needs!

HAHAHA!! Well I always enjoy learning from your expertise, please expand on this

Subscribed to this, have a beretta px4 that I like, and want to like more.

Think Steve is right on! Practical/speed related port work has to be tops after tube capacity, triggers are subjective but a good one usually doesn't hurt (unless you're used to jerking 8 pounders and fire early with a reasonable one :)). I've shot Benellis with and without, I can't tell you I notice a huge difference in the moment, maybe at the end of the day? You could certainly take a step in the right direction with a limbsaver pre-fit pad and kick-eze cheek pad for $50 or so total, which I've done on one of my old non-comfort tech benelli stocks and a stoeger, never looked back or felt like I needed more. Of course perceived recoil, how it's managed, and how a gun fits are all somehwhat individualistic so try to find one to shoot with the comfortech next to yours and see if it allows faster follow ups or anything beneficial for you!

I have had this happen twice on different platforms, both with relatively high cyclic weight (heavy buffers, bolts, and strong springs), and discovered two things: 1. Shooting off a bench, the gun actually more or less bump fired. Moved back toward me on recoil, and without offhand support the cyclic mass moved the gun, and trigger, forward into my finger and fired again. Never happened in thousands of rounds but put in a heavier buffer and beefy spring to play with things and sure enough, wouldn't have believed it until I heard about the possibility and really paid attention. There are ways to mitigate with more trigger control, but having been a bolt guy my whole life until a few years ago never really needed to learn about this possibility. 2. Had one setup that I dropped an adjustable trigger in and really had it too light/too little engagement. I don't know for sure, but the rig never had an issue previously, new trigger and I got some random doubles, back to a different trigger and never saw it again. I can only think that there was so little engagement it could jar itself into doubles or beyond, which means it probably wasn't drop safe, at least not with the safety off, and not really what I needed. Maybe one of those scenarios can give you some things to think about or rule out?

As usual, Tony is right on. Almost any $200 rangefinders of current production from Vortex, Nikon, Sig, Bushnell, etc. will hit anything within 4-600 yards fast and easy. Remember my first rangefinder as a guide in Colorado - spend $400 on a "1000" yard model and was lucky to hit 500 most of the time If you don't need fast and light I'd look at bino combos, but may not be ideal for your needs and are much more spendy if you just need to range what you'll hit with your prism sight

Yep, it’s all good there. This is good to know, and lines up with my experience now. May consider running a different case gauge, although at this point I will just go through with sizing all my “ready to load” processed brass as that seems to eliminate the issues. Ran a bunch Friday after full resize with no issue and new Hornady brass has no issues so far. thanks for all the help, hopefully this post helps another loader down the road.

Thanks for all the info, following back up with a few things I’ve learned. 1. Not a head stamp issue, had some lake city that didn’t fit and some that did. 2. measured neck thickness and couldn’t find a pattern there, but wouldn’t rule it out 3. ended up running a Lee taper crimp and that actually allowed a few to chamber freely that didn’t before, but didn’t fix all of them 4. Had a couple “bad” ones that I pulled Bullets, resized, and will reload time see if they go in now. Empty brass freely chambers, although not sure if it did pre-loading. step 4 is probably the real test, if they work on the next load I Will just run all This brass through my cranked down sizing die before loading and all should be good. A bit of a bummer, but better than jamming The gun up all the time. Too bad about the Wilson gauge, doesn’t do me much good at this point if it won’t gauge what I need, guess it’s an adequate trim gauge.

I've had an XDm since they got rebadged, been a dozen or fifteen years with a lot of rounds and never had one issue that I recall. I do hear stories from certain online "experts" - some may be legitimate but my feeling is an awful lot are SHTF mall ninjas that need stipling for when their gun gets too bloody to grip... and the XD can't keep up with their needs. Anyway, also have an xd for edc that I never worry about and the XDm is pretty kitted out and shoots great. Like many things, comes down to what fits you, what platform you're invested in, and how much aftermarket support you want (and what you're willing to pay for it). Love my gun, but wish I had a G34 to be honest as the grip shape/grip angle seem to agree with me just a bit more... I don't know that it's quite there, but the XDm feels more upright and taller to me, closer to a 1911 than Glock? Just one opinion

Just started loading for this caliber, worked up a few basic 110 V-Max loads to try before pumping them out on the dillon and about 5 shots in (with promising accuracy) had a "click" no fire. Turns out my bolt didn't go all the way into battery so no bang, no big deal on a new gun. Had to take some serious measures to open the bolt (slide hammer action on a concrete pad). Figured it had something to do with the load so I got home and started looking and here is the troubling issue - about 3-4 of the 15 loads I made are between 1/8 and a hair more not seating fully in the chamber, so a closed bolt just jams them on something and all is stuck. Was able to recreate this in slow motion and hand chambered all loads just to see. Most worked fine in and out of chamber, some stuck and wouldn't go into battery. It's a BA Hanson Barrel, faxon bolt that has been used extensively in other rigs with no issue. So here is what I tried: 1. All loads easily go into Wilson case gauge (checked this before and after "issue" with all rounds) This is strange, none feel tighter or different than others in the gauge 2. All bullet seating (off ogive) is within a couple thousands and shouldn't be in the lands at all - also no marks on bullet after jamming in and pulling out 3. All trim lengths are within a few thousandths and within spec 4. Put non chambering rounds on concentricity gauge and runout is .004" max 5. Just for fun put calipers on shell base just above rim in case sizing wasn't complete, no real noticeable issues there, and think the wilson gauge should catch this anyway My next thoughts - 1. Will try these in a friend's blackout rig and see if issue remains, could point to a tight or flawed chamber? Visual inspection of the chamber didn't lead to anything obvious. May give it a good scrub with JB and see if that makes a difference 2. Pull bullets and resize without decap pin and see if this allows brass to fit? And most importantly - your thoughts or questions?? Thanks!

Believe Tony is right. The 5.15oz (about) standard rifle buffer was designed for a much longer dwell time than you have in your 14.5” mid, so should be easy to make it run with a lighter weight. Don’t see it mentioned, if you have adjustable gas it’s a non issue. Heck some of us run empty buffers. shoot it, see if your ejected brass location and condition has a sign of over speeding bolt or if it’s good, and you can tune from there if needed with your weights.

Aero Precision makes a thunder ranch edition that has some custom cuts, if you can find them in stock. I'd strongly consider looking at Iron City Rifleworks, they have some F1 type stuff for pretty good prices. Believe that have a set called "Berserker Light". I've used a lot of their BCG's and been really happy all around.

Gotcha! Well those are usually pretty easy to make cycle reliably...

Great to hear a good report on this one! What gas/buffer system are you running?

That's a good enough answer! if those go sure the 105 VLD will too. What barrel/receiver is that running in?? Is it mag dependent as well or just runs fine?