zombywoof

Always ask for lead, always. Look in Craigslist, indoor ranges, Tire shops etc.... I bought 1000lbs of lead in ingots for $400 from an old timer that was getting out of casting and moving south. I love picking up deer slugs from the berm. People give me lead because they know I cast. So my lead cost is low. It was lots easier when wheel weights were lead. They were outlawed in this state years ago.

I try .001-.002" over. It's tough to go over .358 on a 9mm.

First you need to slug the barrel of your firearm, this determines the diameter of your barrel bore. You want the diameter of your bullet to be .001-.002" over your barrels groove diameter. It seals the bore and prevents gas cutting of the bullet. I have 9's that are all over the place. One wants .358", one .357 and one .356". So for this example I want a mold that drops a bullet with a diameter of .358 or larger. You then buy sizing dies at different diameters. They can be as simple as a die that screws into your press and push the bullet through and it sizes it to the desired diameter. The dies are only around $10. Like I said, each step needs lots of equipment.

Hate the string, cut it.

Make sure you have a good lead supply. It is time consuming. It can be done with very little equipment. There is some really nice stuff out there for casting. There is a learning curve. Go over to castboolits and read up. Find lead render into ingots melt into casting pot pour into mold mix up Hi-tek 2-3 coats and bake each coat in your convection toaster oven size boolits load These eight steps take quite a bit of stuff to complete. I like to load in 30 pound batches. It takes me a few hours to make the 30 pounds of lead into bullets, depends on the mold and amount of cavitys. I coat three times. It takes about an hour to bake the batch. I coat and let them dry overnight and repeat until three coats. Then you have to size them. Say you have 1500-1600 bullets, you have to size each one, takes time. Just like reloading you can do it on a single stage or progressive, same thing. Good luck

Mine of course.

I love using my 9C for bug and CCP. I don't think the Forward set trigger is legal. I call my 9C the G19 killer. I think it's a great gun for those two divisions. Mine shoots great.

As a 1911 guy and M&P 45 owner, I can tell you the extra weight and trigger of the 1911 makes it easier to shoot. The trigger on the striker gun took time to get used to. With reduced loads the M&P is nice to shoot. I still prefer the Pro in 9mm.

Cool! Loctite I hope.

I have one with a FFll, works great. I believe I used the Burris mount. It fit the contour of the slide nicely. http://www.opticsplanet.com/burris-mount-fastfire.html?_iv_gun-model=smith-and-wesson-m-and-p&_iv_code=BR-RDM-SDM-410336

I'm shooting coated out of my 38SC. I get a little lead build up in the comp. Jacketed are a little more consistent as far as accuracy. I'll use them for larger matches. Coated work great for everything else.

I'm having good results with PD 124 JHP in my STI GM.

I size to .357 for my Pro 9mm. I'll get leading if the alloy is too soft. Commercial should be OK unless undersize as stated above.

I use 0-20, works.

If you have a prescription for distance in your glasses, ask your eye Dr for a +.75 lens in front of your current glasses. My Dr. let me bring in a firearm to the office. I was shooting rifle at the time and got some interesting looks from people in the waiting room. The AR and pistol are about the same focal distance. We did the good, better, best with him adding those lens in front of my eye while I was aiming my firearm. You need to tweak your distance prescription so you can see the front sight, too much and the target is a total blurr, too little (what you have now) and you can't see the front sight. You need a controlled blurr. For most people a +.75 to their current distance prescription works. I had another right lens made for an old set of glasses and switch between the two sets I have, one for irons and one for dots ( my regular street glasses). Good luck. Ask your Dr. if you can bring in a firearm.

Get a Lyman M die for coated bullets and use a taper crimp. You shouldn't strip coating.

I like WST. TG works very well, I just had a hard time getting such a small volume to flow through my dispenser.

I had the same problem. drove me nuts. Where can this round imprint come from. Its the magazine causing the mark from recoil. The number two round hits the cut out in the mag during recoil. The coated flat nose bullet shows this. Put your bullet with the imprint in the mag and the mark will line right up. Drove me nuts.

WST and coated lead in my 9mm is great, all weights

I run Win SRP in 38SC

This. Try using a barrel paste, like JB's. Good luck. I've shot thousands of these coated bullets. I coat my own as well. When the coating is not cured enough, problems happen.

I changed out my guide rod and went to a 13 lb spring in my Pro, very happy.

I shoot 3N38 to 172 PF in 38SC. I tried 6.1 grains Power Pistol for Steel challenge with a 121 coated. Worked great.