ryan45kim

Ok I have a couple questions for you shotgun experts. I just shot sporting clays and 5 stand for the first time and had a blast. I decided I need a shot gun just for clays. I would be shooting trap, skeet, sporting clays and what ever else I run into. I’ve been reading everything I can find on the subject and think the Beretta 391 is what I’m looking for, but what model do I want? Is there one that is better then the others, comes with all the chokes I will need ect. I’m not dedicating my life to clays, I spend most of my free time trying to change my limited m card to a limited gm one so this is a side thing just for fun. I have a group of friends that go shoot this around once a month but I’d like to get the right equipment in the beginning so that I won’t be held back. Also is there anything else I will need for this like a vest shell carriers ect? Thanks in advance, Ryan Also would a Benelli M2 be a good option for clays (I could also use it for three gun) because I did not see anyone really talking about it? Why are people not using it, is it just a recoil issue or is there something else wrong with it that makes it not popular it the clays world.

Check you’re recoil spring for binding. If the spring is to long it will bind and stop the slide (instead of the slide hitting the buff the spring pushes on the center of the buff. That will destroy a buff in short order.

Wow all that segregating sounds like too much work, but I don’t shoot open. I’m in the camp that says load it until it splits or will not hold a primer, and for 45acp when they split you load them one more time and use them when hiking and don’t pick them up.

Ok guys I’m interested, how about some pictures of you’re fat frees. Also does anyone have some good close-up picture of TGO’s 6” he just used at the lim-10 nationals?

My new favorite gun cleaner is WD-40 (actually the wallmart knock off). That and a toothbrush, Q tips, and paper towels does everything but rifle barrels. If the WD-40 won’t get it clean then out comes the brake cleaner.

From the GMs I’ve had a chance to talk to I’d say there average recoil spring rate in a 1911 40S&W limited gun is between 9lb—12.5lb. I can not recall anyone running a spring over 12.5lb.

I JB Weld all my shims in place.

Thanks for the suggestions guys, for the last few years I’ve used WCC844 and WCC846 for 55gr FMJ 223 but its getting harder to find and the price is getting so high that new commercial powder is becoming a viable option. I know that WCC846 and BL-C2 are about the same but I was not using it because it was the best powder but because I was getting it at $6 per pound. I’m going to try Varget for my heavy 223 (68, 69, 75) and 308 loads (I was using IMR 4064 or 4895) but I’m not using a stick powder to load 55gr FMJ. So the question is what is the best ball powder for 55gr FMJ 223 loads (for the heavy bullets I’ll use varget). Also when I asked about RamShot TAC the response I got was that it was a good powder with heavy 223 bullets but not great with 55gr and lighter. Anyone have an opinion about accurate powders?

What ball powder would you suggest for 55gr full metal jacket 223? I live in PA and most matches are 200yds and under so this is my main AR ammo. This must be a ball powder, I’ll suffer with a stick powder for the other rounds but I load this in bulk on my Dillon and have no faith in the Dillon powder measure and stick powder.

First thanks for all the replies. Ok I admit defeat and now except the fact that I can not run one powder for 223, 308, and 260. Now two more questions. 1) If you were choosing one powder for heavy 223 (68, 69, 75, 77 ect) and 308 and 260 LR loads what would you pick? The two powders I hear over and over again are Varget and Reloader 15. Which one is better, also do you have other suggestions? Will one powder work for these three loads (or is this a lost cause like my first question was)? 2) What ball powder would you suggest for 55gr full metal jacket 223? I live in PA and most matches are 200yds and under so this is my main AR ammo. This must be a ball powder, I’ll suffer with a stick powder for the other rounds but I load this in bulk on my Dillon and have no faith in the Dillon powder measure and stick powder. Thanks, Ryan

I use an EGW die in 40S&W, 9mm, and 45ACP on a 650 (I run this setup for all three). Running range brass with the EGW die in station one can be hard (lots of crushed cases for me). First I processed my brass in a separate step (I set up another tool head with my Dillon sizing die in stage one, EGW in stage 3, and a Lee final size die in stage 5). This worked great, but meant I had to run each piece of brass through the press twice (to much time and work). I then took Flex’s advice and set up my press like this. Stage 1 Dillon sizing die. Stage 2 EGW sizing die. Stage 3 powder measure (you just bend the return rod a little, this was much easier then I thought it would be and I haven’t had any problems with it not returning or throwing charges out of spec). Stage 4 Seating die. Stage 5 Lee final size die. My concern was that I could not run my powder checker with this setup, but I just watch the cases to make sure there is powder before I seat the bullet and pull anything that looks different (99% turn out to be right in spec, but better safe then sorry). PS I would suggest running a case lube with this setup, but besides that this setup has worked great for me. Sorry just saw you are running a 550 guess this won't work for you.

I’ve never used Grams pads on glock mags only paras but I would guess that the answer is the same either way, use Grams springs with Grams base pads. Beven has wolf make him custom springs to his specs, they are what the mag master has designed to work with his products. But like I said I’ve only used grams pads with para mags (my glock is for production) so I could be wrong.

I would love to get a good bullpup but there are some real problems with them. First there is no support for them (barrels, triggers, free-floating ect). Second most of them can’t be shot left handed. Finally I have haven’t seen one I really like (but I think it is a good idea that should be pushed forward).

Has anybody tried this powder? I would like to find one powder to load 223, 308, and 260rem with. I would prefer to find a ball powder, it just meters so much better then any stick powder I’ve tried. Now the question is has anyone tried TAC? Rumor has it that this is the powder that Black Hills uses to load there 77gr 223 for the military. How sensitive is it to temperature ect? How accurate is it? Anything else you could tell me about this powder would be appreciated. I also posted this question in the reloading section but I would like to get some feedback from the guys here. The 308 and 260rem loads would be for my bolt guns for long range and you guys specialize in that. So what do you guys think about TAC.

Has anybody tried this powder? I would like to find one powder to load 223, 308, and 260rem with. I would prefer to find a ball powder, it just meters so much better then any stick powder I’ve tried. Now the question is has anyone tried TAC? Rumor has it that this is the powder that Black Hills uses to load there 77gr 223 for the military. How sensitive is it to temperature ect? How accurate is it? Anything else you could tell me about this powder would be appreciated.

First thanks for all the replies, this is much better then the old system of buying the new toy to see if you like it. I see a lot of you guys are pushing the TPS rings if the goal is to save money (now are you suggesting aluminum or steel), but I still have not heard anyone comment on the Smith Enterprises tactical rings. No one seams to know if Smith makes these rings for IOR, or IOR makes them for Smith but these are both reasonably respected companies so I would guess they were decent?

I didn’t see any cameras either; I was just hoping that I missed them.

Does anyone know if there is a DVD of the super squad shooting the 2006 Limited Nationals? If there is where can I get one? I’d like to see how the Big Dogs ran the stages compared to what I did (you know that whole improving my technique thing). Thanks, Ryan

Has anyone tried Smith Enterprise tactical rings? How do they compare to the Badger Ordnance rings (since most people consider Badger the gold standard in tactical scope rings)? The reason I ask is I can get the Smith rings for $100 verses $150 for the Badger rings (I don’t mind paying for better quality but I don’t like to pay for a name if both rings are of equal quality). Thanks, Ryan

The only place I know that is carrying sinterfire bullets now is http://www.frangiblebullets.com/ They are expensive, a friend of mine used to work for sinterfire and get us good deals (same friend Beven has) but he no longer works for them. PS I’ve never heard of sinterfire making a 135gr 40 bullet. They have 105gr, 125gr and they used to have a 150gr. Because there is no lead in them (they are made of copper and tin) there 125gr bullet is about the same size as a lead 180gr bullet. Hope this helps.

I used sinterfire bullets for about 3 years/seasons. They are good bullets and the best thing you can run on steel in my option. They turn to dust when they hit steel expending all there energy on target (not bouncing off to who knows where). I had a 9mm load for steel that used a 90gr bullet at just around a 1000fps, it was not even a 100 power factor. That load took down every piece of steel I hit with it (I stopped using it because it did not have enough energy to cycle a glock 17, it would get stovepipe jams). I would still be using sinterfire except I lost my source (full retail sucks).

I’m still a lowly master in limited but I’ll put my 2cents in. I took Matt Trout’s class and this is one of the best gems (pulling the gun back) I picked up, it’s not so much speed I gain but accuracy. When starting a stage with huge transitions I can really push without overrunning my target and now I get consistent As.

Yea Flex, if I could have back just one shot. Ryan

My charts are listing WSF as slower then Universal Clays, but not by much. The guys I shoot with are running Bullseye or a surplus Chinese powder that is close to Bullseye. I was guessing that most people were running Titegroup or VV320 both of which are much faster then WSF or Universal Clays. Maybe it’s the powder not the speed of the powder but that is just a guess. I tried WST with 9mm plated frontiers and had no luck with that either, but when I switched to WSF my groups closed up. I do not have a good reason for this, it’s just my experience.

Just a question guys, what powder are you using with you’re Berrys? My prices on Frontiers went up again so after seeing Dirtypool’s post about Berrys I went with them this time. Mine are running at .400 to .405 (that is with calipers, sorry guys it’s the best I have). Crimp is very important, after shooting frangible bullets for a few years (they break instead of just pealing the jacket) I learned not to over crimp. But you guys all know how to load so that is just stating the obvious. The thing I noticed about plated bullets is powder. All the guys I shoot with run Paras with stock barrels. They are running fast powders and they are pealing jackets and leaving lead spray (best way I know how to describe it) on the targets. The only difference in our loads is the powder; I run Winchester Super Field and have none of these problems in two different Para barrels. Just my observations, but I think it is something to look at. PS thanks for the lead on Berrys Dirtypool, they are working out great for me. PSS I am running 180gr hollowpoints at 1000fps, my powerfactor at Area 8 was 181.