ryan45kim

So if I understand this correctly 1) There are two different strikers the original and the new model, but both will work in all M&Ps 2) The spring retainers will only work with there specific striker either original or new 3) There are two striker springs original and new. The springs are interchangeable but the new one has more coils and should be stronger and heavier. 4) The retaining plate spring is the same for both strikers 5) The striker guide is the same for both strikers

I look forward to you’re update. Thanks, Ryan

Is it just the original spring cups that don’t work with the new striker? Are the striker spring and guide also changed from the original design? Thanks, Ryan

Thanks for the info please keep us updated Thanks, Ryan

It should fit on most 1911 style guns (some frame rails might be to big but it should fit most). The problem you're having is probably interference with the ejector. Most conversions are made to fit 45acp ejectors. Does it start onto the frame then just stop?

Let me try to understand this, IPSC is not allowed in the Olympics but curling is?

Sorry here is the link http://www.ballisticadvantagellc.com/home.php

Has anyone ever used Ballistic Advantage for a custom AR15 barrel? How was the quality of there work, what blanks did they use, service good? Thanks, Ryan

It looks interesting; I’d love to hear some first hand reviews. I wish it would take more then 4 shells. I was wondering how well that recoil pad buffer system worked and if it could be retrofitted to my 391?

Thanks for the responses, if WST will not work what would be you’re powder of choice?

Has anyone used WST to load 380 auto? I’m going to start loading 380 and have a good bit of WST and WSF I’m thinking that the WST will give better results. I’m just looking to duplicate a standard 95 grain FMJ load.

Para does not have a custom shop like S&W or Springfield Armory. I run 17lb ISMI mainsprings in both my P-16s I have no problem setting off Win small rifle primers (I did have problems with a 15lb mainspring). Go to Brownells web site they have almost everything you could want for a 1911.

Para doesn’t have a custom shop like Springfield or S&W. They will not do trigger jobs as we define them all they will do is put stock factory parts in the gun. If you want a trigger job for you’re Para there are many great gun smiths on this site that can do that work for you. Para guns are a basically a 1911 so 90% of the parts will interchange.

any news about the sears?

Thanks, that sounds better but I still want my mag front and center.

I think the biggest change for me in standard is having to run my magazines behind the hip.

Thanks for the responses guys, I’m use to USPSA but Ohio will be my first time shooting IPSC. I measured my S&A magwells and they are both 43.6mm at there widest point so I’m hopping they are ok. I normally run Dawson pads with Para tubes but I know they will not fit in the box. Will the Para +2 factory base pads fit the IPSC box? I have the stock pads that will fit the box I just wanted pads that were a little longer so they would seat easier in the S&A magwell.

Two questions Will a Para P16 with an S&A magwell fit in the box for IPSC standard division. Anyone know what base pads I could run with my Para magazine tubes. Thanks, Ryan

I was loading for my Para P16 with a 5” barrel. Like I said I seam to be in the minority. I have read many posts from people who load WST to major in 40S&W, that is why I tried it. I love WST for my lead practice load but it is not a major load. I can only comment on my experiences.

My experiences don’t seam to be the norm here but when I tried to make major with WST it did not work. I was using 180gr plated bullets at 1.200 OAL and I started separating case heads at around 175 power factor. I like to load between 175 to 180 PF so I’m safe at the chronograph. The difference between 165PF and 180PF is only 74FPS with an 180gr bullet. I switched to WSF and I can make 180PF while remaining in book specks at standard OAL. I still use WST for minor and steel loads but I will not use it for major loads. I would use a slower powder but I seam to be in the minority. PS looking at primers is NOT a reliable pressure indicator. I have friends in the ammunition industry that have all the fancy pressure equipment. They had a 9x19 round that ran 50000psi and the primers looked fine, no flowing at all.

Frangible bullets aren’t hard to load; everything is the same as conventional bullets but the crimp. Just take you’re time setting you’re crimp die, don’t crimp just take the bell off the case. If you use too much crimp you will break the bullet. I have not heard of a massive increase in frangible bullet production, but that would make some friends of mine very happy.

I’ve shot a lot of lead since bullet prices went through the roof. I’ve shot around 11,000 S&S casting bullets so far in practice and I’m on my way to doubling that this year. I run Rainer 180gr plated for my major load (because I bought them when they were cheap) and Montana gold 155gr HP for my steel load. I don’t have any problem switching between them. When I clean my guns I run one oil socked patch down the barrel to push out the big chunks of powder ect that’s all. I have not used a solvent or a brush on my pistol barrels in a few years. They will still hold the A zone at 50yds if I do my part, what more do I need. Maybe I just got lucky, YMMV.

Frangible bullets are great but they will always be more expensive then cup and core bullets (regular JHP bullets). The top frangible bullets are made out of compressed copper and tin that is then baked to fuse the copper and tin together. Copper and tin will always cost more then lead. If they make them right you can shoot steel as close as you can shoot paper because the bullets will break into particles no bigger then 5 grains. Its neat shooting steel at 3 feet for the first time, it feels like sand blowing on the beach. International Cartridge makes the best frangible ammunition I’ve seen (I’m biased though because I shoot with the guys that run these companies) and frangible bullets sells International Cartridge ammunition (ICC). You have to watch you’re crimp when you load these bullets, if you use too much crimp you will score and break the bullet. It is just like scoring a pipe to cut it. If they baked the bullets too long the bullet would turn into bronze but they want the bullets to break up when shot at steel so they will break if you score them. I’ve always gotten great accuracy from frangible bullets; it is one solid piece instead of multiple pieces like a JHP so they tend to be more consistent. The problem is they run lighter then conventional bullets; copper and tin are lighter then lead. They are the best steel bullet I’ve ever found, they are also the best open 40 bullet I’ve found, Beven Grams ran them in open 40 for a long time.

Sorry I was not more specific in my earlier post. I know that the company BoMar is no longer with us but the BoMar sight cut which is used on many of our guns is still very much alive and that is what I was referring to. The Kimber sight cut for fixed sights can be made into a BoMar cut without much trouble. There are many companies making sights for that cut, you just have to pick one. I’m not a fan of Henine sights, I like the top of my rear sight to slope towards me like a BoMar, STI, SVI, and Ed Brown sight does. But what matters is what works for you, try as many as you can then pick what you like.

The Kimber fixed rear sight cut is very close to a bomar cut. I remember reading that it is an easy conversion. Might want to check into it, bomars are pretty much the standard in our game.