ryan45kim

I have a question about DPMS high rider uppers, they look like the ticket for three gun (no risers plus rings or using the mounts like b-square sells) but there is no bump (the protrusion that kicks the brass forward). Is there a problem with shooting it from the left shoulder (I shoot some matches that require weak shoulder shooting)? I know that Benny uses them so can they be shot from the left shoulder?

If I find them before they get a primer I toss them, if they take a primer I finish loading them and then toss them (there not worth the trouble especially in 40 S&W). Still better then small primer 45ACPs though!!!!!!

.40AET thanks for the reply, I think I’m about to build a box (as soon as I get some free time). And please send my thanks to GREG LENT for his development of the coffin and being nice enough to share his experience. Again thanks for the help guys.

Flyin40, you need to get some guys together and make larger orders, the group of guys I shoot with order our bullets together and get some great savings. This year we went with plated frontier bullets, we paid $38 for 124gr 9mm $46 for 180 40S&W and $51 for 230gr 45ACP those prices are per thousand including shipping. You need to call around and see who will “deal” with you but if you place a big enough order you can get some great deals.

Well I had yesterday off and decided to do some chrono work I’ve been putting off, the results were the same as always it worked about 1/3 of the time. The only time I could get it to work consistently was when the sun was behind the clouds. Unfortunately turning the sensors on there side did not work for me; neither did turning the whole unit upside down (sensors facing down instead of up). I guess I’m going to start drawing up a design for an enclosed box with its own lighting system, any ideas guys?

Nobody has tried these? If that 62 grain bullet will hold MOA, I think it would be the hot ticket for three gun, 62 grain no tungsten core and $40 a thousand. Horaday’s 55 grain FMJ is more than that, roughly $50 a thousand before shipping. I have never heard of a three gun match that needs more accuracy than that, (if you miss with a rifle that shoots MOA its you not the gun) that’s 4 inch groups at 400 yards. I have ordered some (have not arrived yet) but I’m surprised nobody else has tried them.

I was just wondering if the para power extractor is caliber specific, (do they make a 9mm, 38super, 40s&w, and 45acp) or are they all the same. I have no idea so I was wondering if any one has looked at them. If anything the spring, plunger, and rear piece should be the same with just a different front claw or whatever they are calling that part. Ps my power extractor is still running great.

From what I’ve seen (I’ve played with the older 45acp high-cap Springfield not the new 40) the para and Springfield are almost the same gun. 1) The Springfield has a forged frame instead of paras cast frame. 2) Springfield has a 70 series trigger group, instead of paras 80 series (whoever invented the 80 series trigger group should be hurt very badly!!!!!) Besides that the differences are minor, Paras can run para, STI, or SV mags, all you have to do is play with the mag catch (been there done that). If the slide locks back you can over insert the STI/SV mags, but if you deactivate the slide stop (does not lock open on an empty mag) then that is not a problem. I read somewhere that TGO has always run STI/SV mags in his Springfield, and that Springfield is recommending STI/SV mags anyway (they must be setting up there mag catch for them). I have ran paras for the last 5 years, while I’m not going to run out and sell them to buy the new Springfield, if I was just starting I’d buy them instead of my paras (for the reasons above + quality control) depending on the price. And I’m sure if you do not like there standard model the custom shop will do anything you want to it.

please please anyone have a picture

No I got a sample order first before I placed the big order. My Bar-Sto barrel likes them just fine (not one hole at 50 yards but good enough for USPSA) but my stock para barrel does not. Just wanted to know if anyone else had tried them.

Thanks for the replies guys, I like the idea of turning the sensors upside down (wish I could say I thought of that) I will give that a try, between work and setting up my rifle and shotgun for three gun, I haven’t had any time to play with my crono, but this is definitely something I’m still working on, any suggestions will be appreciated. Ps. No power line anywhere nearby.

I had the same thing happen to my first p-16, time for a new barrel.

I found an ad in shotgun news for golden west bullets, they sell 62gr and 55gr 223 bullets cheap anyone have any experience with them?

Thats what I wanted to hear, just ordered 16000 180gr 40s now what powder WST,WSF, or Tight group?

cking could you please post a picture of the safty mod

Shred I have never heard of the Kidd modular extractor, Sorry. But if you want to put the power extractor into a regular 1911 you would have to drill out the tunnel.

Thats what I was afraid of what I don't understand is if rem sells thier left hand trigger plate why not a left hand safty. thanks for the replys guys.

Shred that’s a good point I don’t think there are any major lines near me (just the one line that feeds the houses on my street no big ones) but I’m going to check. There are several power plants in my area, but I’m at least 10 miles from the closest one. Dave thank you, I thought I was going crazy, its just nice to know you’re not the only one. Again I love this timer, I’d never buy anything else it does everything I need it to do and more I’m not trying to bash Pact, everyone I shoot with has them and the club I use to run we used five of them for our matches, I just want to find a way to make this chrono work consistently. I would still like to know if the inferred screens would work with the Pact sensors, from what I have seen the CED inferred screens only replace the sky screens on the standard CED chrono (the CED chrono still uses there standard photo sensors with the inferred screens), so I’m thinking that if I used my Pact photo sensors and put the CED inferred screens over top of them it may fix my problem but I’m getting tired of throwing money around.

I see these advertised in shotgun news and the prices look great, I did a search on this forum but only found one posting from a while back and was wondering if anyone has used them recently (I was looking at the 223 bullets 55gr and 62gr).

Frontier bullets are sold by rainier, and black hills shooters supply, neither of these companies list them that I have seen (you have to ask for them). The normal bullets that rainier sells are a swaged out of lead wire (pure soft lead) then copper plated, the frontier bullets are hard cast and then copper plated. Both types of bullets are supposedly made in South Africa by the same company. Rainier sizes their name brand bullets a second time to make them more consistent and the frontiers are not. This is what I “have heard” and wanted to see if anyone else has been using them.

Thanks for the replies guys, I guess its time to try federal small pistol primers and run some more tests on the speer brass.

I just got some good prices on plated frontier bullets and was wondering if anyone is using these

Thanks for the replies guys, I have a new p-16 limited with the power extractor, (I wanted a back up for the first p-16, if something brakes grab the other gun instead of going to the safe handling area to swap out parts), so far its run fine (maybe 2000 rounds through it) just wondering if anyone was having any problems.

Thanks for the replies guys, high primers were my first thought also, but when I went through my loaded rounds I could not find any high primers, I did notice that in the speer brass the primers were seated deeper then in the other cases (fed, win, s&b, ect) I guess I’m spoiled I started out with a single stack 45 then went to a p-16 and I could run any primers I wanted and never had a problem even with small rifle primers.

Flex I’ve tried varying the range from the start screen, I’ve tried 6 inches from the start sensor all the way back to 25 yards and nothing will make it work consistently, if it does not want to work there doesn’t seem to be anyway to make it work (also I've never tried to run it in bad weather, rain, snow, getting dark ect) . Maybe it is just my chrono I don’t know the only variable I can think of that I have not tried is altering the light source, (trying artificial light) but if I’m missing something please let me know I just want it to work consistently.