ryan45kim

I didn’t see any cameras either; I was just hoping that I missed them.

Does anyone know if there is a DVD of the super squad shooting the 2006 Limited Nationals? If there is where can I get one? I’d like to see how the Big Dogs ran the stages compared to what I did (you know that whole improving my technique thing). Thanks, Ryan

Has anyone tried Smith Enterprise tactical rings? How do they compare to the Badger Ordnance rings (since most people consider Badger the gold standard in tactical scope rings)? The reason I ask is I can get the Smith rings for $100 verses $150 for the Badger rings (I don’t mind paying for better quality but I don’t like to pay for a name if both rings are of equal quality). Thanks, Ryan

The only place I know that is carrying sinterfire bullets now is http://www.frangiblebullets.com/ They are expensive, a friend of mine used to work for sinterfire and get us good deals (same friend Beven has) but he no longer works for them. PS I’ve never heard of sinterfire making a 135gr 40 bullet. They have 105gr, 125gr and they used to have a 150gr. Because there is no lead in them (they are made of copper and tin) there 125gr bullet is about the same size as a lead 180gr bullet. Hope this helps.

I used sinterfire bullets for about 3 years/seasons. They are good bullets and the best thing you can run on steel in my option. They turn to dust when they hit steel expending all there energy on target (not bouncing off to who knows where). I had a 9mm load for steel that used a 90gr bullet at just around a 1000fps, it was not even a 100 power factor. That load took down every piece of steel I hit with it (I stopped using it because it did not have enough energy to cycle a glock 17, it would get stovepipe jams). I would still be using sinterfire except I lost my source (full retail sucks).

I’m still a lowly master in limited but I’ll put my 2cents in. I took Matt Trout’s class and this is one of the best gems (pulling the gun back) I picked up, it’s not so much speed I gain but accuracy. When starting a stage with huge transitions I can really push without overrunning my target and now I get consistent As.

Yea Flex, if I could have back just one shot. Ryan

My charts are listing WSF as slower then Universal Clays, but not by much. The guys I shoot with are running Bullseye or a surplus Chinese powder that is close to Bullseye. I was guessing that most people were running Titegroup or VV320 both of which are much faster then WSF or Universal Clays. Maybe it’s the powder not the speed of the powder but that is just a guess. I tried WST with 9mm plated frontiers and had no luck with that either, but when I switched to WSF my groups closed up. I do not have a good reason for this, it’s just my experience.

Just a question guys, what powder are you using with you’re Berrys? My prices on Frontiers went up again so after seeing Dirtypool’s post about Berrys I went with them this time. Mine are running at .400 to .405 (that is with calipers, sorry guys it’s the best I have). Crimp is very important, after shooting frangible bullets for a few years (they break instead of just pealing the jacket) I learned not to over crimp. But you guys all know how to load so that is just stating the obvious. The thing I noticed about plated bullets is powder. All the guys I shoot with run Paras with stock barrels. They are running fast powders and they are pealing jackets and leaving lead spray (best way I know how to describe it) on the targets. The only difference in our loads is the powder; I run Winchester Super Field and have none of these problems in two different Para barrels. Just my observations, but I think it is something to look at. PS thanks for the lead on Berrys Dirtypool, they are working out great for me. PSS I am running 180gr hollowpoints at 1000fps, my powerfactor at Area 8 was 181.

Both Rainer and Berrys are plated bullets with a swaged lead core. I’ve used both and had no problems with either one.

Flex you are right about that, I've meet Gary at East Huntingdon and I've seen his work (just sent him an E-mail). Thanks for the replys.

I need to put a new barrel in my limited gun. I have always run bushing barrels (both my limited guns are Paras) but was thinking about trying a bull barrel this time so. What are the advantages or disadvantages of each type of barrel. I’ve always heard (range talk) that bushing barrels are more accurate but this is just hearsay. PS. I know I have to run a Ed Brown bull barrel because the outside diameter is .703 and Paras slides have an inside diameter to large for most bull barrels (I miked it at .700 ID) so any comments on Ed Brown barrels would be appreciated also. Thanks in advance.

I love to hear that the cheaper mags are just as good or better. Thanks guys.

That’s what I wanted to know, thanks. One more question, are the Knight and DPMS magazines identical our is one better then the other? They fit the Tubb 2k also, why did you tell me that now I want one of those also.

I guess I was not clear so. Aramlite uses a modified M-14 magazine. Bushmaster (And soon RRA) uses a standard FAL magazine. The question was if you can interchange DPMS and Knight Armament magazines. I believe they each make there own magazines, but will they work in the others rifle (also is one better then the other quality ect). Thanks in advance.

Simple question, do the DPMS and Knight 308 ARs use the same magazines? I read somewhere that they both use the same design (not the waffle pattern but they will still work in the original AR-10s) as the original AR-10 so I'm guessing that the magazines are interchangeable, but I'd like to know for sure. Thanks

Don’t forget one of the best parts of the AR-15 system; you can snap on any upper you want for that particular match. So put a good trigger in it, and get two uppers (or three or four).

I use an EGW die in 40S&W, 9mm, and 45ACP on a 650 (I run this setup for all three). Running range brass with the EGW die in station one can be hard (lots of crushed cases for me). First I processed my brass in a separate step (I set up another tool head with my Dillon sizing die in stage one, EGW in stage 3, and a Lee final size die in stage 5). This worked great, but meant I had to run each piece of brass through the press twice (to much time and work). I then took Flex’s advice and set up my press like this. Stage 1 Dillon sizing die. Stage 2 EGW sizing die. Stage 3 powder measure (you just bend the return rod a little, this was much easier then I thought it would be and I haven’t had any problems with it not returning or throwing charges out of spec). Stage 4 Seating die. Stage 5 Lee final size die. My concern was that I could not run my powder checker with this setup, but I just watch the cases to make sure there is powder before I seat the bullet and pull anything that looks different (99% turn out to be right in spec, but better safe then sorry). PS I would suggest running a case lube with this setup, but besides that this setup has worked great for me.

Does this imply you want me to put those stupid 80 series parts back in my Para to shoot IDPA.

Dirtypool40, have you checked with T&T Reloading, Black hills shooter supply, or Rainier about frontier bullets. They do not advertise them, you have to call and ask about them.

I’ve had good luck with light steel loads (4.0-4.5grs) of WST, these run up to 1000fps in my Glock 17 but I wanted to get a good minor load (around 1100fps) for production. I had problems trying to make major with WST in 40S&W, when I got over major I started separating cases. The fact that there is no load data for WST in 9mm worried me but I figured I’d ask and see if anyone was using it (plus I have 7lb of it).

I loaded some at 4.5 and was getting about 1000fps in my G17, I want to go higher but wanted to see if anyone else has already (I've blowen enough stuff up).

Anyone using WST in 9mm. I’m running a 125gr round nose bullet in a glock 17 I’ve had good luck with WST in 45acp anyone using it in 9mm. Loads and power factor would be appreciated.

I’ll give you the resale value for cutting down the front sight but not windage. If you’re barrel was setup properly at the factory and you are using a factory replacement sight you should have no problem with windage, I never did (if you get some cheap knock off part that’s a different matter). I’m not a fan of flip up sights for competition, if you loose you’re main sighting system you’re dead already now if I was in a real world situation that $100 plus flip up front sight would be worth it. I’m not trying to start a fight but front sights are cheap, and I feel much safer with roll pins holding it on (those set screws always worried me there is a reason they cover those gas blocks in lock tight when they install them). Also I can take my free float tube off (it slips right over the cut down front sight). Just trying to help save some money that you can use for ammo, just my two cents.

Also if you are taking off the front sight / gas block the retaining pins (the two bigger pins on the bottom) are tapered so you can only drive them out in one direction. Use a big hammer (I use a 5lb dead blow) to start the pins they are very tight and if you tap on them with a light hammer you will pean them over.