ryan45kim

Thanks for the responses guys, I’m use to USPSA but Ohio will be my first time shooting IPSC. I measured my S&A magwells and they are both 43.6mm at there widest point so I’m hopping they are ok. I normally run Dawson pads with Para tubes but I know they will not fit in the box. Will the Para +2 factory base pads fit the IPSC box? I have the stock pads that will fit the box I just wanted pads that were a little longer so they would seat easier in the S&A magwell.

Two questions Will a Para P16 with an S&A magwell fit in the box for IPSC standard division. Anyone know what base pads I could run with my Para magazine tubes. Thanks, Ryan

I was loading for my Para P16 with a 5” barrel. Like I said I seam to be in the minority. I have read many posts from people who load WST to major in 40S&W, that is why I tried it. I love WST for my lead practice load but it is not a major load. I can only comment on my experiences.

My experiences don’t seam to be the norm here but when I tried to make major with WST it did not work. I was using 180gr plated bullets at 1.200 OAL and I started separating case heads at around 175 power factor. I like to load between 175 to 180 PF so I’m safe at the chronograph. The difference between 165PF and 180PF is only 74FPS with an 180gr bullet. I switched to WSF and I can make 180PF while remaining in book specks at standard OAL. I still use WST for minor and steel loads but I will not use it for major loads. I would use a slower powder but I seam to be in the minority. PS looking at primers is NOT a reliable pressure indicator. I have friends in the ammunition industry that have all the fancy pressure equipment. They had a 9x19 round that ran 50000psi and the primers looked fine, no flowing at all.

Frangible bullets aren’t hard to load; everything is the same as conventional bullets but the crimp. Just take you’re time setting you’re crimp die, don’t crimp just take the bell off the case. If you use too much crimp you will break the bullet. I have not heard of a massive increase in frangible bullet production, but that would make some friends of mine very happy.

I’ve shot a lot of lead since bullet prices went through the roof. I’ve shot around 11,000 S&S casting bullets so far in practice and I’m on my way to doubling that this year. I run Rainer 180gr plated for my major load (because I bought them when they were cheap) and Montana gold 155gr HP for my steel load. I don’t have any problem switching between them. When I clean my guns I run one oil socked patch down the barrel to push out the big chunks of powder ect that’s all. I have not used a solvent or a brush on my pistol barrels in a few years. They will still hold the A zone at 50yds if I do my part, what more do I need. Maybe I just got lucky, YMMV.

Frangible bullets are great but they will always be more expensive then cup and core bullets (regular JHP bullets). The top frangible bullets are made out of compressed copper and tin that is then baked to fuse the copper and tin together. Copper and tin will always cost more then lead. If they make them right you can shoot steel as close as you can shoot paper because the bullets will break into particles no bigger then 5 grains. Its neat shooting steel at 3 feet for the first time, it feels like sand blowing on the beach. International Cartridge makes the best frangible ammunition I’ve seen (I’m biased though because I shoot with the guys that run these companies) and frangible bullets sells International Cartridge ammunition (ICC). You have to watch you’re crimp when you load these bullets, if you use too much crimp you will score and break the bullet. It is just like scoring a pipe to cut it. If they baked the bullets too long the bullet would turn into bronze but they want the bullets to break up when shot at steel so they will break if you score them. I’ve always gotten great accuracy from frangible bullets; it is one solid piece instead of multiple pieces like a JHP so they tend to be more consistent. The problem is they run lighter then conventional bullets; copper and tin are lighter then lead. They are the best steel bullet I’ve ever found, they are also the best open 40 bullet I’ve found, Beven Grams ran them in open 40 for a long time.

Sorry I was not more specific in my earlier post. I know that the company BoMar is no longer with us but the BoMar sight cut which is used on many of our guns is still very much alive and that is what I was referring to. The Kimber sight cut for fixed sights can be made into a BoMar cut without much trouble. There are many companies making sights for that cut, you just have to pick one. I’m not a fan of Henine sights, I like the top of my rear sight to slope towards me like a BoMar, STI, SVI, and Ed Brown sight does. But what matters is what works for you, try as many as you can then pick what you like.

The Kimber fixed rear sight cut is very close to a bomar cut. I remember reading that it is an easy conversion. Might want to check into it, bomars are pretty much the standard in our game.

Any idea when the applications are coming out? I’m signed up for the Ohio sectional and would like to shoot both matches.

Boats sorry it took so long to respond, it’s been a busy week. In striker fired guns the recoil spring and the striker spring are working against each other. The recoil spring is trying to close the slide and keep it closed, while at the same time the striker spring is pushing on the slide in the opposite direction. This system works because the recoil spring overpowers the striker spring. If you start weakening the recoil spring without balancing the striker spring you can induce a multitude of problems, among them are premature unlocking of the slide and barrel, or the slide and barrel not fully closing. Either of these conditions can cause light strikes. I normally run a P-16 in limited and my favorite recoil spring I ever ran was an ISMI 9lb spring. I stopped running a 9lb spring because I could not get it to run reliably.

That big spring that runs underneath the barrel is a recoil spring. A mainspring in a 1911 is inside the mainspring housing right below the grip safety. You’re mainspring has a lot to do with ignition on a 1911; it is what drives the hammer forward. It also pays a part in controlling the slide unlocking. The striker or firing pin spring (I’ve seen them called both) goes around the striker/firing pin in glocks and m&ps. It drives the striker into the primer, so yes it has an effect on ignition. I’m just not sure what question you are asking. Are you talking about recoil springs or striker springs effecting ignition.

Thanks Mike, any idea if the match is full?

Are there still slots available for this match? This is the only place I found any information about it, is there an ohio section web page? Thanks, Ryan

All my Para P16 magazines hold 21 rounds but I run them with 20 rounds 99% of the time. I have one that is a hair away from 22, but it runs great now and I’m not messing with it. The standard setup in limited is Para tubes, Para followers, Dawson base pads. I use to run Para springs but Para changed the design and they are not reliable anymore (at least for me). The new Para springs have a small coil on them the old ones don’t have this reduced coil. I have used both Wolf and ISMI springs, they both worked well.

AMMO

Yeah Yeah everyone knows that. Well then you know that St Marks sells to Western Powder who will sell those special commercial powders to normal people (and to most small reloading companies). If you would read above you will see that if you have the ST Marks name/code you can get that special powder from Western Powder. But thanks for the help.

So what is the code for the St Marks powder that AAA is using?

Winchester has not made gun powder in a long time (I don’t know exactly how long). Most Winchester labeled powder is made by St Marks in Florida. While I do not know what powder AAA is using it could be WSX170 (three digit number?) which is Winchester Super Field in you’re local store.

now that was funny

I don’t believe that anyone can make a Hi Point work.

any news about the 9L or 40L

I think S&A has an aluminum magwell, I have heard that they do but I’ve never seen one. That alone should get you under the 41oz limit. You can put a plastic short government guide rod in. Lighten the frame under the grips. Loose the grips, (probably save you more then the Ti parts do and its free). I’ve seen plastic rear sights that replace the factory rear sight. That’s all I can think of right now

I’m with Flex on this. I remember hearing about Travis running an 180pf in limited because that’s what the Army got him. Didn’t seam to slow him down.

Thanks for the update. I wish there were more 25yd head shots; we need to be tested on everything.