johnbu

A newbee buddy came over and we did dry fire with drills 1-6. in an hour he literally dropped 0.3 to 0.5sec on most drills. I didn't par time weak hand index as that was a new skill for him. His turn & draw was 1.5s and he ended up just missing a 0.8 par beep. Pretty excited about taking his 2 day at our colfax wi range in august. It's the week before wi section, so I'm hoping to do well.

Was listening to Steve Anderson's pod cast, and he mentioned a dry fire swinger to get better skills on them. So, i made one. Pretty easy to make from stuff laying around the shop. Used a piece of 3" wide by about 2 &1/2 ft long piece of 1/8" thick iron i had laying around for the bob weight and to hold the target. (A length of 2x4 board would work too). Drilled a 1/2" hole about 1/4 of the way down. Then found a 3/8 bolt about 3" long, 2 fender washers, 2 nuts and a spacer. Then drilled a 3/8 hole in a piece of scrap plywood. The bolt goes thru the bob weight first, then the spacer then a nut and washer. Then the plywood, washer and last nut. the 2 nuts clamp the bolt to the wood, but leave the spacer and bob weight able to move freely. A piece of scrap wood props up the bob weight and is activated with a pull cord. The target is taped on to the top of the bob weight. It's not perfect, but is actually usefull and easy to make.

I thought it was life time to the original owner. And Polymer is correct, don't expect a thing if you modified the gun.

If left covered, the carbon and residue will fill the holes pretty quick. the Durso comp alone is flatter than the tanfo plus v12.

You're welcome.

Yes. Large frame slides fit large frames. The competition or the standard versions are the same.

Std steel frame has round trigger guard, very minimal grip texture on front and rear straps. Competition frame has square trigger guard, decent checkering on the front and rear grip straps and wood grip panels. The grip panels are not interchangable between std and competition frames. Things like dust cover length and accessory mounting varies by model. Big thing is the true hard chrome on the stock 2.

Ouch.

I'm old, slow and not very experienced, but here's a vid showing the 6# recoil spring with 130 pf 135grain bullets.

I don't think you will gain much reach with the thinner grips. There are some plastic "lava" grips you can get on ebay. They are thin and inexpensive. In my opinion, the LOK palm swell are the most comfortable and natural feeling. Boggie pattern gives nice traction too.

Rugar mk 4 will be easiest to break down and will have the most support in aftermarket. Buckmark is nice as is the sw victory. Ive shot the above and all are accurate as heck. Taurus is supposed to have a new one tx22.never seen it though

LOK palm swells or PD palm swells. you may want to sand the pd grips to reach the release easier. Depends on your hand size.

Grief > reward = not doing it.

Polished the rails in frame and slide.

My 2018 vintage dillon 650 will bury primers. 0.008" every time. Maybe they improved things? Winchester primers are waaay easier to light off.

The force is equal, but the time is reduced. Thus the recoil "impulse" is greater as that is force/time. So lighter slides are "snappier" feeling. As I've grown in the sport, the recoil is less of a concern. Getting the dot back on the A sooner and more uniformly is the goal!

Age means little, round count is more important.

The 40 limited is pretty much ready to roll out of the box. trigger will be about 3 1/2 to 4 #. polish parts up following @MemphisMechanic video and it will be a solid 3# trigger with smooth action. Henning sells a custom spring for 40 major. gun will be flatter with that.

Start with an 8 pound std length, try 7 and 6# (they only come in long slide so you need to clip 1 or two coils). I shoot 124 now, but also ran 135 and 145/147. All with 6# recoil spring.

Funny, but I added pre_travel to my guns as I have the touch and feel of an arthritic blacksmith. Too easy to send one past brown on weak hand transfers.

"Yet" Let's hope its a long time too!

You should buy it.

My thoughts exactly. Holes with sharp corners crack. holes also allow flexing which leads to cracks. But slide assemblies from Eaa are "only" $700 so...

Externally, it looks fine. Internally... can't see. Shoot it with GOOD ammo. If it's accurate, it's probably good. Wear items are springs, extractor and magazines. heavy use wear items are sear, hammer, firing pin, trigger bow and barrel. inspect the sear where it contacts the hammer. if it's rounded, it's heavily used. My opinion, for the price it's probably well worth it.

Unless his gunsmith changed things on his new guns, I'd hardly say "sucks". Like 7 and 3# and smooth. stouter than us peasants like, but he learned to not disturb the sights with a stronger trigger. And at that level, even one "light strike" will cost a championship!