johnbu

^^^ what he said. If you really want SAO, the "best" setup that can be had is to get the Evolution Gun Works sear and hammer with trigger of choice. 2 flat ones from Henning, mostly flat xtreme and standard SAO. Bolo is not an option with them. But, the EGW sear has no provision for the FP block and requires fitting. no where near drop in. Just so you know. but you can (have to actually) adjust the pretravel amount by the sear to trigger bar leg. it and the hammer are thru hard.

It's normal. you can minimize it with a STRONGER recoil spring.

Gotcha! i was thinking "DPP" !

Standard "heart shaped hammer". I prefer the Titan hammer over the Delta. The bolo from patriot defense with their springs, 1 piece sear (xtreme or unica) and polishing will give you a much better trigger. Follow MemphisMechanic on youtube. He has a 4 part series showing what to do.

Patriot Defense is doing lightening cuts.

I ran that , but polymer cz guiderod and vortex viper and was 44.5oz. your gun must be lighter than mine!

Actually, minor pf, with polished rails in the frame and slide, you can go down lower. 6 or 7 # may yield a flatter recoil arc. Film a bill drill of the gun from the side with a background that shows the relative gun motion with each spring.

@MemphisMechanic is correct. There are some minor differences, but the tension screws on the holster should accommodate them. Heck, i have to adjust screws on different year large frame stock 2s!

Super glue...great idea!

Few here use anything but a single spring. sorry.

The competition guns (square trigger guard) have the good pin and keeper pin. The round trigger guard guns have the PITA pound in roll pin. As MemphisMechanic stated, the conversion is possible, but will require specific machining skills. You can buy the two pins from EAA and visit a good full service gunsmith to get it done.I doubt it will be cheap.

You need the disconnector and it's pin.

Watch the videos from memphismechanic on YouTube. Remove the sear pack and hammer. Take pictures of them and the trigger.

EAA has (or had?) a serial number lookup.

What you are showing is what everyone had told you. At 22 or 23, the follower gets below the interface. Smooth the interface and the follower won't tip.

Depending on what they did, it could be as simple as adding the dissconnector. Or full replacement of hammer, trigger, dissconnector.

I run taylor freelance and get 23 rounds reliably. Initially,similar result... but slight chamfering the extension interface fixed it.

Google "case hardening at home"

Hey, @Apolo can you enlighten folks>?

I saw a while ago a person on EBAY selling a 3D printed copy of the wood grips and they were cheap. You could get a set and mold, file/grind to your preference sizrite and shape then coat with carbide grit. Most grips will be thinner than the wood factory grips and if you want thick, that may be your best path.

Given the gun seems ok and most fails are in SA, the failure "signature" seems to be ammo related. i would measure the primer depth on every round of a box of ammo. My guess is that some will be high to flush. Tanfo's like them 0.005 to 0.008" below flush. Mark all cases high, flush or near flush. Then fire them ALL in DA, that will show the highest possibility of failure.

Yes. i didn't want to be all commercially and only had it in the video. So people that were interested could see it and not bug others. the shims for S&W K-L-N frame fit the tanfo.

Exactly. The shims just make the trigger go straight back without the sideways motion my triggers have a rub mark on the side from the way i pull and it should reduce that. Same with the hammers having rotational rub marks. The "issue" is just making the trigger smoother, more predictable and letting the hammer swing free. I know some guns are VERY wobbly, those maybe should get this. Others it's just making good slightly better.

They were already smooth, so just install and oil was all it required. ^^he's right. I bought a ruger redhawk. If anyone EVER tells you they are "simpler" than an autoloaders .... they are either delusional or fibbing. There are loads of inter-related multi-action parts. The trigger motion simultaneously unlocks and relocks the cylinder, rotates the cylinder, moves the transfer bar, moves the hammer back and eventually releases it. Smoothing out the trigger action, revo guys add shims to keep them from rubbing. And a light bulb went on. While some people think the "as delivered" trigger is acceptable and the wobbly side to side motion is all part of the "charm", i just wanted to see if it would help. And for just a couple bucks, it does help.

I use a small drill bit to catch the sear spring and lift it into the groove. works like a charm and doesn't make people wonder about you! lol.