johnbu

I use 1/16" for the ambi safety and sae sizes for all other pins. Ones that are just slightly small. (obviously) I'm sure metric would be "best", but these work fine. Hot tip, replace the trigger pivot pin with the canick pin from CGW.

This is IMPORTANT... Look at that red box. Look close. ONLY REMOVE material from the BOTTOM of the curve. NONE from the front of the point. Plan on assembling, testing, disassembling then removing a SMALL AMOUNT of material and repeating that process 10, 15, 20 times! You can take off more, but you can't take off less.

It sounds like the notch in the slide is rounded over so the slide slips off the release too easily. Just a guess.

from the henning link "Henning Tanfoglio 9mm 23+1 USPSA Magazine Extension with Follower Kit" The link was for tanfo mags.

https://patriotdefense.com/patriot-defense-tanfoglio-cz75-base-pads-small-frame/ or this? Patriot Make them for both large frame and small frame magazines. Many polymer are small, but some large ... so you have to double check

https://www.henningshop.com/Detail.aspx?PROD=1292071&CAT=10208 are we talking the same thing?

don't know. have you contacted the companies that make them? Taylor Freelance and Henning come to mind. Both top notch makers.

What hammer spring? By the way, 2nd strike ignition is a classic sign of primers being too high. Ideally, they should be 0.005" to 0.008" below flush. This is Vital with weak hammer springs. And verify oal is good and crimp is consistent. I test every round in a hundo.

For me (a lowly A class slob), just taking more time to move the trigger helped tremendously. 15yd splits of 0.75 weak hand get me pretty reliably in the A zone, 0.5s splits are 50/50 A or close C. Rushing it even a little or losing focus on the trigger just kills the accuracy. This and more da dryfire too.

File or dremel the "lip" below the groove that the mag slides into. Just did this for a buddy. he was limited to 20 before to be reliable, instantly went to 22. once the springs set, he will be 23 reloadable.

Spend a (very) few dollars and buy a patriot defense firing pin return spring (robs less power from the hammer) AND a patriot defense firing pin. That will light off cci primers in otherwise untouched guns (that don't have other issues). Also, the EG Medium spring should be good for a full season (20k or better).

Call up PD. There is a holster company across the way from them. They might be able to make one. or check your local holster companies to see if they will mold one around your gun. I'm pretty sure you will need a custom holster as that is not a popular combo.

I have not. but, my "stock" of springs is 18 months old. I get a pile at once to reduce shipping costs.

My son is left eye, right hand.he taught himself to shoot pistol left handed. A work around is Scotch tape on the left lens to force right eye. Just a small piece.

Interesting drill. But, i bet the order of the drills affected the result. For the OP, try shooting metric targets at 50 yds. 5 shot strings, 100 rounds. I did that every day for a week and had tremendous improvements daily. Then 35 became much easier.

Can't comment on the sr9 specificly, but low 2nd shot is potentially you shooting twice with one sight picture. Just throwing that out. The real fast M/GM shooters have iron grip strength and perfect trigger action that is fast yet doesn't move the sights... at all. And they actually are seeing the sights aligned on each shot. This is what I'm working on now, so its hitting "close to home" as they say.

Little update... Put in wolff 12# spring and had da light strikes on cci primers. (Duh) Shaved 0.025" off the face of the hammer (which gives a harder whack to the transfer bar, but doesn't touch the firing pin at rest). That gives 100% da ignition on cci primers. Not as light of sa as a sw gun, but very good.

4 springs should be changed. PD optimized; sear spring, trigger return, firing pin return and hammer spring. If you want to RELIABLY ignite cci primers with no polishing, EG medium. Then lower strength wolff 16, pd15.5, wolff 15, wolff14, pd14. Be aware that newer guns seem to have shallow cut hammer spring pockets and they might require a coil trim of the longer pd 15.5 Just that will give around 8-10#da and 4—5#sa. Hard to tell exactly. Then use a thin grease on the sear to hammer interface and the trigger bar lifter (all of it). Synthetic brake grease works well as does enos slide glide.

Exactly!. I just didn't want to get into the "mv" vs '1/2mv2" thing. But your discription said everything i would have wanted to, only you did it better.

Paradoxically the lightest bullet gives the harshest recoil (when power factor is held constant). Shoot them up practicing!

First off, are you competing where a minimum power factor is mandated? if so, i wouldn't go below 124gr bullet. The "smoothest" recoil will be 147gr at 130 power factor. Recoil spring rate is a relationship between the smoothness of the gun's action, the ammo used and the shooter's grip. my ideal spring may be 7# and your's 10. Test by filming the gun from the side, while firing a 5-6 rounds as fast as you can pull the trigger. literally. Watch the video and see if the gun climbed or sank. climbing needs a stronger spring. Sinking weaker. ideally minimal up/down motion is seen.

None. Polish away!

Won't fit

The bolo is very "fat" compared to the factory disconnector, about 2x on the inner curve.

It should work just as well but! The amount of fitting may be more. (I'm not sure, delta is not one ive fit)