johnbu

4As the title says, how to take out the trigger wiggle (and hammer wiggle too). I found a company that makes stainless shims for triggers. Mostly revolver applications. However, i contacted them and got a set of shims to try. Picture of installed trigger shims. I used 0.005" on both sides. You can see the little rascal in between the trigger and frame. There is one on both sides. (Yes, the gun is dirty, sorry! Lol, not) .you can see the shim along side the hammer. I used 0.006" on both sides. Installation wasn't horrid, but i did utter a couple dirty words putting in the trigger shims. If you go too thick, they are a bear to get out without taking both out. I wouldn't want to put them in with a factory trigger roll pin. But, with the canik pin, and a dental pick it wasn't too bad. I thought the hammer shims would be a chore, but they actually were easier. I could go thicker, but it now swings free without touching anything. no reduction on pull weight, but it is smoother and "more direct". i DO NOT have any interest in the company, just found them and since the parts are cheap, i gave it a try. . Company and part info is in the video.

Is the over travel screw set too tight? I remove them

They realize. Problem is many running changes over time from tanfoglio

I wonder if the ammo is too long for the barrel? Have you tested it in the barrel? I would clean it, replace the hammer spring.

Wolff 14# spring came in. ...funny story... i bought some 357 to get the brass, but "blazer" is aluminum case. haha. Missed that when buying cheap. also found out it had CCI primers. But, the smoothing i did along with the wolff 14# had all 50 pop first strike. 8 were SA, 42 were DA. Everything went. And oddly enough, 158gr at 1150fps recoils more than the 900fps 124gr 38spl i was running. However the Houge grips really made it a non-event. Very easy to control.

I'm in the shoot it, inspect it, smooth it a little, repeat cycle right now. Patience, it's a struggle at times, but slow and steady seems to give decent results. Finding and eliminating sources of friction. Too true. I'm starting to think Tanfo machining is industry standard as the ruger isn't any different. Good thing I'm not one to shy away from a challenge.

Ran 230 rounds. same target as before, but i used the upper zone and moved to 15 yards for ease of aiming.

I inserted two pictures of the barrel locking lugs from my primary. it's a fairly new slide/barrel, about 12-14 months and it has a full season of uspsa, steel challenge and practice. Total rounds about 15,000. When i got it, it had an issue where it wasn't locking "correctly", most of the visible wear was from before correcting that issue. there is some rub wear too, but it is still accurate. The OP's gun has similar to worse wear after a couple hundred rounds. Something is not correct and should be looked into. Just my opinion, but if you want it to last the expected 50k+, looking into it might be wise.

Ok, i was dry firing and when my elbow started up to hurting, i switched to playing with the tanfo stuff. Sharpie marked up the cone end and the chamber side. Racked it a bunch and inspected. .pre rack here The post rack cone pick didn't turn out (sorry) but it looked "normal". However i thought a bit heavy on the rub. so i hit the cone with 600, 1200 and 3000 grit, then polished. Post rack. You can see the left side is rubbing more. I think that would push the nose of the barrel right. Naturally, it's even colder today, cloudy and in fact it started to sleet. Next step will be more rounds.

It does NOT. you have a problem. It will eat the barrel and slide up.

What he said. Just "choot eeet" as they say on that gator show.

I run the 15.5 spring and almost exclusively winchester primers. 100% ignition. But it's also 100% with the 14# spring. I just prefer a bit of force.

ON accuracy, here are some thoughts... If the bullets are contacting the rifling it can hold the barrel slightly out of full lock. Plunk test all ammo. What is your case diameter at the mouth? Mine all like as close to 0.3800 for minimum crimp. They also like .356 or .357.

I'm sure you are correct. I've heard good things on the internet rumor mill about his abilities. But... my WALLET may indeed have some regrets about it. LOL I have ordered up some trigger and hammer shims to center up things. Also the 14# wolff main spring to help lighten up things a bit. Should have those things in early next week. Today, I took it down and very lightly smoothed out some of the roughest areas. The trigger pulls dropped a couple ounces which is un-noticeable, but it did smooth out a noticeable amount. Smoothness is more important to me, as long as the pull weight is manageable.

Initial Accuracy. Using the PD barrel, shot 6 rounds of Acme and pasted with BROWN. Then switched to the Tanfo barrel and shot 6 rounds of Acme and pasted with WHITE. Then shot 6 rounds of DG 124 bullets. Then switched back to the PD barrel and shot six rounds of DG bullets. Those holes are unpasted. You can see the average point of impact is shifting more towards the center and tightening. At this point, I decided to shoot a bunch and see how the point of impact might change. This is after about 30 more rounds with the PD barrel and Acme bullets. Sadly, after 45 minutes of 31F temps my ability to shoot tight groups was diminishing and those "fliers" were on me. Not the gun or barrel. Here is the target after 94 rounds of Acme thru the PD barrel . You can see the point of impact has shifted both up and left from the initial 6 rounds. The target eventually was shot out just to the right of the center. And yeah, there are some fliers. But remember that I'm using a 6moa dot and that is about the size of the shot out spot. And it was 31F, windy and after the 90 minutes this took I was COLD. This does tell a story. That there is about a 0.001" to 0.002" somewhere that is holding it out of perfect lock. But the shift in POI is telling me that it is self machining and getting better on it's own. So... the plan right now is to shoot it a bunch and see how it improves. Yeah, that's a bit slower but I think it will result in the tightest long term fit. This is the last picture from today. you can see the hole in the snow on the berm from all the rounds. The distance to the back berm is just under 40 yards. A pretty small zone for 40 yards. Summary: I'm not 100% satisfied with the fitment of the barrel to the gun. I chalk that up to my inexperience, but it should be close enough to "break in" or self machine and tighten up as the last bit is worn off. To be honest, It's at the point where I'm afraid I may take off too much from the wrong spot. A good cleaning, an inspection, probably sharpie mark it up and then shoot it another couple hundred rounds and see where things are rubbing will be the next steps. The difficulty of fitting the barrel wasn't too bad. The hardest part is being patient and avoid trying to remove too much all at once. BUT ! it isn't a "15 minute job" for the average person with common tools and a roll of sand paper. So, don't even THINK it's that fast.

I used two different bullets, Acme 124grain "new profile" and DG Bullets 124 grain. The Acme is a narrow ogive and the DG is a wide profile. First... i like to "sneak up" on a barrel fitment. it's not something I've done much and as they say, "removing metal is easier than replacing it". So, as can be seen a "tweak" maybe needed, but probably just self machining by shooting may work out. Chrono results: PD -Acme 1101fps, StDev 16 six rounds PD - DG 1112fps, StDev 12 six rounds T Acme 1075fps StDev 5 six rounds T DG 1087fps StDev 19 six rounds PD Acme 1096 StDev 13 - 94 rounds Difference: Acme PD - T 1096-1075 =21 fps faster DG PD - T 1122-1087 = 25 fps faster Consistently 20+ fps faster. PF 2.6 to 3.1 points higher. The variability in StDev is approximately the same between the barrels.

Sorry for the delay. "stuff" got in the way. Prep and overview of the gun. Standard prep and a vortex venom 6MOA dot. The shooting area from a rest on a bench. distance lasered to 31 yards. Note the white stuff on the ground... we got 12+" in the last 36 hours! Temps were right around freezing.

I'd want to drop test it to see if it could fire. of course, actually DROPPING it wouldn't be good! is there some shock test like whacking it with a rubber mallet? I dunno. I wouldn't be concerened at 1 1/2#. But my center fire da/sa guns are about there in sa.

I ran 100 with 100% ignition, mostly DA. made 293 more 38spl this morning, but want to wait for it to warm up. We got 12" snow yesterday and its 31f. (yeah.... wimp) plus, i ordered a houge grip and it should be here monday. the wood looks good, but is slippery. Heard from the ruger CS. They showed pictures to the head of the redhawk mfg line. He confirmed that it looks "normal" for the current process. They no longer polish out any of the parts. Also, said there was no safety concern blah blah blah. So if i want it smoother, i guess it needs to visit a smith. i don't like messing with sear angles as i don't have a fixture. but are there "safe" areas to polish to smooth it out?

I'm not sure. will see if it can be pinned to a block or something and check tomorrow. I checked the cylinder to frame and firing pin to cylinder gaps. The "hammer down" pin exposure is 0.037 - 0.040". I'm Assuming that is a little on the light side. (Yes?) And an extended one may be needed to use the lighter 14" spring? Its the new style. That's just a screw out and replace job, right?

New redhawk. Zero rounds fired. 13# da 8#sa. Disassembled, inspected, cleaned, oiled. noted hammer engagement surface is ground crooked. see picture. Is this "normal"?

The front slide serrations are ...diferent.

Simple method of clearancing the barrel hood. on the bench, under the towel i place self adhesive sand paper. 120 and 320 grit. holding the barrel vertical it's pretty easy to slowly remove material. I use a super high tech method to derermine rub points ... sharpie pen. Lol. the dance was, sand, polish, sharpie, install, cycle the slide, remove inspect ... repeat. Here i "thought" it was about done, and it is really really close. But needs more finesse to be where i want it. It is nearly there! sadly, i will need to put it down for a week while other priorities occupy my time.

Adding pictures and posts so i don't lose a big post (Like yesterday) Measuring locking lug engagement. You can use the "tail end" of your caliper to measure the distance from slide to barrel. Measure just barely unlocked and fully locked and subtract. or mount in a vice and use a precision dial indicator... Needle spun once around plus 0.007 for 0.057" total Initially, i had 0.045" and thought the hood area was holding things up. Joe at Patriot Defense said to double check that the barrel was loose enough to allow it to pivot. Any "springy action" indicates there needs to be more clearance. I also had some binding going into full lock /battery and coming out. Odd as it seems, the SLIDE is flexible and the ramped barrel can easily wedge it wider. So there needs to be a bit of clearance. Once i gave it a bit more, it really smoothed out.

Ok. More progress today. a few more pictures and probably too many words. Lol. Picture of how i set the barrel in the vice and 3/4 wrapped the sandpaper.