johnbu

Pretty sure ... ..... i don't know ! I suspect it's in the sear, sear cage, sear cage pocket (in the frame) relationship. The same reason shaving the BOLO nose reduces pull weight while lengthening hammer swing.

7-8# is normal with the EG medium. I'm actually INCREASING trigger weight for the off season to work on trigger control. FYI - wolff makes a 22# spring. Oh, you should test trigger pull with each mag you own. There can be rubbing on the trigger bow that changes the character of the gun.

Coated are great for PCC. as long as you keep speeds under 1600fps. (Some say 2000 with newer coatings!).

I ran 5000 of the acme 145 grain round nose this year. They were very consistent. i ran 3.3 - 3.4 gr of tight group. chrono'ed 137 at section. Discount code "54730" will knock off 10% on all but the biggest volume

Joe's concern is valid. But, imho, the risk is minimal if using true soft loaded rounds, a cone fit guide rod and set up correctly. If factory rounds are used, i can certainly see cumulative damage occurring. Remember, these guns are set up to "CIP" standards for the hotter nato rounds. (Which is why we need to throat the barrels to run SAAMI spec rounds). those lighter, hotter rounds need a stronger spring. A "fix" is to stroke the slide and add a buffer. But that adds cost and complexity, neither are popular! I've been running 6# in my 9's and 10 in major 40 or 8 in minor 40. guns are 2015 vintage and still running strong. Obviously, with the olde world charm these guns have, your experience may be different! And the shooter's skill level will give different results.

I check springs in action with the camera and it shows (for me) the lighter spring is flatter. And with a decent rail polish, the splits are still fast. There is a 2nd "test". back off to 3 yards. Aim at the actual letter A. Rip off a pair as fast as you can. Do that 5-10 times. Record the location and separation (makes you feel all science-like) of the 1st and second hit. the position of the 2nd hit tells the tail. 2nd low = spring too strong. 2nd high = spring too weak. That test is hard to actually do and not pause slightly to correct the aim. So track the split time too. For me, the gun running fast and flat really helps with confidence and shot calling.

I agree ! PD makes the best stuff out there right now. BUT !! Not every gun will be 100% with light springs. The "Italian Charm" that these guns possess means some are going to be cantankerous ! Those guns will need a stouter spring.

I would say a standard (non-competition) steel frame gun. Those are 350-650 depending on used or new, etc. then buy a 6" barrel and have that cut and threaded. That would be under a grand, including machine work with a new gun.

They are NOT. There is long slide and standard. The low poundage long springs are close to 2# heavier when used in a standard gun. BUT around the 8# level, they may coil bind and cause short stroking and a whole swath of freaky problems. I use 6# recoil spring with a coil cut. The cut side goes into the cup. I found that weight to be the flattest when filmed from the side running a bill drill / mag dump. But that is contingent on the bullet weight, loading, grip, stance, etc etc etc. as well as personal preference. "Springs are cheap, buy a large selection and experiment"

Here is a picture of one weighted and tight sprung practice mag. it replicates the weight of and force required to seat a full up mag. I've been concentrating on doing reloads (hour a day) since early September. thousands of drops on cement . large frame mags are pretty tough! There is a spot where the trigger bow can rub on the mag. its on the "funnel" area and if it is over inserted or something, it will drag on the trigger bow. Could be the bow, the mags or the mag release button. close inspection should reveal the culprit.

The mags could be over inserted or the top could be distorted (dented) and be rubbing on the trigger bar. I don't think its caused by the extension.

I hope you are correct. More gun is more better.

Is the dpp and R1 pattern the same?

^^ You're welcome! I used to be pretty haphazard about my reloads as I was positive they were all perfect, because they passed barrel plunk. Then i bought a hundo case guage. YIKES! My ammo stunk. Fixed a lot but finally found that the "bulge Bust" trick was the last thing to really have GOOD consistent ammo. Roll sizing would also be a solution,but $$$$ ! Using the DIY lanoline lube works great when bulge busting. Needs dry tumbling to get it off, but no biggie as that's what I do anyway.

A small soldering iron works with less chance for collateral damage. Heat it to melting solder temps, wipe clean with leather or thick moist cloth, press it on the screw for 60 seconds. loosen quickly. Works.

I use the Makorov die. Processed and loaded 12000 without any sort of issue. well other than the time on s single stage press to do it!

Interesting point on heavy. The Tanfo approach seems to echo that with a "mv" mass * velocity inertia bias versus "mv2" or mass*velocity squared kinetic energy bias. The newer generation heart shaped hammers weigh more than the older. Titan hammer added and moved weight up in the swing arc. The Unica is solid and weighs even more. Efficiency of energy transfer seems to be higher with higher inertia vs kinetic energy. At least in this platform! As you said, no free lunch. All the shiny go fast parts are small incremental improvements. Nothing will make a 10# hammer spring 100% reliable on hard primers. But they can get you a reliable sub-4# da on soft federal primed ammo.

This ^^. X100. Very few are actually "too good" for their current gun and require a "better" gun to win. Choose the one you like the best and practice like crazy. It's not sexy or fun, but it seems to help.

Yes, the gen 2 firing pin is 0.020" longer than xtreme and PD gen1

The "performance" hammers have shorter hooks that mate with the sear. That gives a lighter smoother SA release. They also have altered geometry to tune the swing length and force progression in DA. The unica hammer has more swing arc than any other hammer. That makes it hit harder. It also has the lightest SA release when mated with the unica sear. I think the sear/hook engagement rules there. My opinion is that a hammer change gives better trigger feel and lightness. SA can be 1 -2 pound less. Possibly better ignition reliability with Delta and Titan. Definitely better with unica solid hammer. But its only like a spring weight 1/2 to 1 pound more.

the titan hammer

The new PD pin is better. longer than the factory one now.

To me, the S2 and S2 are extremely similar in feel. If one fits good, the other will too. And if one feels "goofy " the other will too. But, the tanfo wood grips are noteably wider than the shad2. those with glued grit might be to your liking.

The trigger bar and lifter can be out of sync and cause a bind. But Cha-Lee is correct. at some point a trip to the tanfo doctor is required.

Polish, yes. Lots and lots are needed. But .... You will want the PD optimized trigger return spring, sear spring and firing pin return spring. You will benefit from the PD firing pin. The "ultimate" trigger will need the bolo along with the titan or unica hammer. AND you will probably want to change sight and grips.