alma

I put Dawson LPA adjustables on mine. I am partial to their fiber optic rear sights. https://www.dawsonprecision.com/CategoryProductList.jsp?cat=SIGHTS+REAR%3APara+Ordnance%2FLPA+Cut+Rear+Sights:LPA+Cut+Rear+Sights

5.11 has a new tactical "covert" vest that doesn't look like the traditional "shoot me first" vests. The pockets are all internal and the chest pockets work with the backup belt system. It has two large zipper pockets for your hands where I temporarily inserted some large cardboard panels to improve the rigidity of the vest for draws and reloads. It even had two one inch pockets on the inside of the vest on either side of the zipper in the front that as far as I can tell are purpose built for adding weight to the corners of the jacket to help it to swing out of the way when you toss them back for a draw or mag change. I haven't shot an IDPA match with it yet but so far I am very happy with the purchase and pretty impressed and think they must have had IDPA in mind when they made it. Here is one review that has a picture of the vest: http://www.thefirearmblog.com/blog/2013/04/14/5-11-tacticals-covert-vest/

I suspect at the local USPSA level that no one would question the legality of shooting on of these guns in Production division even though technically it isn't legal. Walther likely never submitted the paper work to USPSA for this gun since it isn't idea for USPSA competition because of the magazine capacity. To be competitive in standard USPSA competition or IDPA you would generally want at least 10 rounds in the magazine. IDPA occasionally runs "bug gun" matches that cater to guns similar to the PPS (barrels under 3.8 inches). That being said there world be nothing wrong with showing up to a USPSA or IDPA match with your PPS to get a feel for competition add their unique styles. I would approach the match director, let him or her know that you are a new shooter, and ask which division you should be shouting in. Division really shouldn't matter for your first matches anyway as most new shooters have some ground to cover before they are competitive. I started shooting USPSA Production with my carry gun which was a Glock 19. After awhile if you like the game chances are you would be shopping for a gun with a little more capacity and a longer sight radius for competition use.

Wishes I could help with specifics but I imagine that the old standard rule "you get what you pay for" would be in effect.

Pay attention to trigger reach. Getting your finger where you want for a consistent triggered pull can be helped by changing the back strap. You may also notice that the gun may naturally point in a slightly different direction when holding it relaxed in you strong hand depending on the grip size. Make sure that you leave enough room on the weakhand side of the gun to get a good grip with your other hand.

Check here http://www.czfirearms.us/index.php?topic=55988.0

I tried the gun rack on stroller method and picked up a lot of fine dust on a windy day at the range. I switched to hanging a Safariland 3 Gun bag from the handles. It sits well in the center of my kids double stroller leaving me one seat for my pistol range bag and a second for an ammo container.

Looking again at Terry it looks like part of your problem with not being ready to shoot when you arrive at your new position is that you are not starting your reloads soon enough. There is a big difference at where Zach starts to reload versus Terry. I think Terry would have no problem getting those reloads in but needs to be dropping that old mag as soon as he starts moving towards the next target versus a step or two along the way.

More for Terry, I couldn't tell why at first but for some reason you looked very stiff while shooting. I think you are locking up your entire upper body including your head when moving from target to target. It's causing your transitions from one target to the next to be very abrupt and its taking you too long to get your shots off on the next target. You need to ensure that as soon as you shoot one target that you start moving your head and eyes to find the next target. Since your eyes will be on the spot you want to shoot it makes it much easier to bring your gun onto that stop quickly without over swinging, which is something that is easy to do if you follow your sights while transitioning which is what it looks like you are doing. It's hard to say given that I can't see the angles through that window but if at all possible try to minimize the number of times you have to move your feet to shoot all of those targets.

That's odd. Not sure how to correct that problem Guessing it is set as to not allow viewing while embedded from another website. It should be a checkbox on the settings

For Zach, that stop on the first target looks like a huge time drain. Getting into and out of positions can really eat up the clock and having to do it for one target like that which looked to be at medium distance will definitely hurt. I think I would have tried to advance on the move slowly and hit it on the move with moderate split times. As someone else said it didn't look like you were ready to shoot at any of the positions. At that second stop you should have already had the gun up and should have been squeezing off shots while you settled into position. If possible get that gun up a step and start aiming a step or two before you get where you need to be to ensure that you can start shooting as soon as the target becomes visible and you stabilize to the extent that it is needed. I also agree that I would have shot the targets after the window in the opposite order since it would be easier to index on the right side targets going in and I could start my momentum moving backwards while shooting the last target on the right. As for Terry it looked like the biggest problem you had was getting your magazine changes done in time to be ready to shoot at the next position.

DAA Belt, DAA Race Master pouches, Ghost Stinger Holster. I have used CR Speed, and currently have ELS for 3 Gun. DAA is slightly better than the standard CR speed and much better than ELS. The ELS belt seems like it twists much easier than the DAA or the CR speed but it is really easy to attach things and the modular nature is great for 3 gun. If I was doing a 3 gun set up over again I think I would build it on DAA with Blade Tech TMMS just because it would be a bit more solid. Race Master pouches was because they got good reviews, looked great, and had a lot of options for mounting at different angles and cant. I have used various handmade kydex pouches (Kytac, Comp Tec, CoM Kydex) and these are vastly better. With my Kytac it was always a struggle to keep tension just right to allow for swift reloads without risking having an impromptu yard sale on mags when running was required. Race Master's retention and release both are wonderful; no more yard sales. The only issue I have had (which may be specific to the aluminum version) is that when I grab magazines and pull at a more extreme angle instead of straight out I would sometimes have the magazines hang up where the mag release slot on the magazine made contact with the edge of the magazine pouch. I have addressed this problem by taking a little bit of material off of the inside of the pouch to ensure the mag doesn't hang up in that area on the way out. I would have purchased a DAA holster as well but at the time the only model available was the one with the suede lining. Instead I opted for a Ghost Stinger holster. I really love the hanger on the Ghost. I have a BladeTech DOH for 3 Gun and don't like the way that it hangs off the belt at an angle giving you no other contact with your body to help stabilize the rig. The Ghost's hanger runs down the belt parallel with the rig and has a large circular area that rests on your leg. The holster itself is also attached to the rest of the rig much lower when compared to the Blade Tech. To me this makes the DOH on the Ghost feel much more comfortable improves the stability of the hoster and consistency of my draw since it doesn't have the same type of flex that a BladeTech DOH has. The kydex holster itself on the Ghost is good overall but the one I got didn't have as much clearance for my front sight as I would have liked. I had to work on it a bit with a file. I think Ghost has now resolved this issue and the newer models have more sight clearance.

I used to have a cmore slide ride on a Glock which might not being a good comparison. I ditched it for frame mounted due to the weight that it added to the slide and the fact that the dot would ride more during recoil. Some are concerned about longevity of the micro dots on slides but I know much progress has been made in durability.

That's the Vortex HD Gen II (1-6) on a Vortex mount. Great scope. Only down side I see is it weighs a lot since it's built with 3 Gun abuse in mind.

It says video unavailable when I click from my mobile.

Not necessary for Shadows but required on tuned B series guns.

Perhaps, but I think it much easier to learn tactics than it is to become an expert shooter. Both are examples of key skills that would be combined in combat scenarios and strength in one should help you to successfully execute the other.

Apparently being very competent with the manipulation and use of a firearm is the type of stuff that will get you killed on the street.

So what are those additional skills that USPSA shooters need to learn to avoid getting killed by all of those dangerous hardwired skills like the ability to move, shoot accurately at speed, and react dynamically today changing environments? I think that there are certainly some important tactics that should be followed assuming targets are shooting back but feel that those tactics are not at odds with the raw skills developed by USPSA shooters. Just because you can shoot an El Presidente doesn't mean that a USPSA shooter would fall back to that in any given situation. Despite emphasis on cover I think IDPA shooters might be worse off since there is much more dictation of stage procedure and fewer opportunities for shooters to solve the problems and react to changes in a dynamic way.

What was his class? Guessing either way he would have been shooting for points and speed. I was the 2003 USPSA National Production Champion in C class but that doesn't mean that I know what I am talking about or that my strategies reign supreme.

Mag tube spring is about 3 months old. One thing that leads me to think that this is not the culprit is that the malfunctions don't seem to be dependant on how many rounds are in the tube. Given that this is a Browning Gold there is a significant deficiency in design for running longer tubes in that the spring tension of the mag tube puts direct rearward force on the bolt causing gun to not lock up. This also results in a "bang," then "click" but in that case the fresh round is in in the chamber, just not far enough in the chamber. This new issue is not even sending the round onto the lifter as far as I can tell.

My Browning Gold had always been very reliable running bulk Federal from Walmart but at last month's 3 Gun match my the gun functioned perfectly during the first half of the day but started to malfunction on my last two stages. I wrote this up to range dust, cleaned the gun thoroughly, and tried it again last Saturday at another 3 Gun match. Unfortunately the issues have continued so now I am trying to diagnose and resolve if possible. The gun was firing and ejecting shells but was sporadically not loading a new round into the chamber. This would result in me trying to engage a target, pulling the trigger and getting a "click" on an empty chamber, and having to manually cycle the action to get a round loaded in the chamber. The match required slugs and during the course of the match I never had a failure while shooting Remington Low Recoil slugs. After speaking with a few shooters about the issue it was suggested that I might be an issue with the gas system that is restricting the flow and causing a short stroking issue. I try to keep the gun clean so I removed and examined the piston assembly to look for broken springs or other issue and couldn't see anything obvious. I did notice the two gas rings inside the assembly rattled when I shook the assembly but otherwise looked to be in good condition with very little build up on them. I will try to clean them out as best as possible but I am wondering should be shopping for new gas rings or perhaps even a new gas assembly? I noticed that for around $100 Briley sells a steel gas piston option that would accept the internals from my current assembly. Also, I can get a new OEM assembly for around $75. Would it be worthwhile trying a new one if I can't see anything physically wrong with the current one? Thanks in advance for the advice.

For performance priority goes to trigger first and muzzle break second. Miculek break is by far the best value. Optics would be next in line.

SLR Sentry 7 is a very nice adjustable low profile gas block. A bit expensive but comes with a lifetime satisfaction guarantee. I just put a Seekins SP3R 15" Forend and Seekins ATC comp on mine and am very happy with the results. The SP3R given you a nice flat bottom to rest on barricades and the comp is very efficient without being as loud as the Miculek which holds the title of best value. Otherwise I have an 18" Nordic barrel, JP low mass BCG, JP silent capture spring, JP speed hammer, JP trigger, JP oversized anti walk pins, and JP tensioner in place of a rear takedown pin. Magpul MOE rifle stock, trigger guard, and Magpul MAD grip. Might switch out the grip for an ergo grip. Lower is from my old A2 bushmaster and the upper is an STI A3.

Here are some screen caps in order. Look at the difference in positioning of your thumb. Also, from the angle of your weak hand thumb it looks like your weak hand isn't high enough on your gun but I would have to see another angle to confirm. See if you can get more of your weak-hand palm into that grip and move that left hand a bit higher. It should help a lot in addition to practicing draws, sight pictures, reloads, and transitions.