Ethanolguy

If you buy a Hiperfire 24C or eclipse, you can have either a flat trigger, or put the shoe on for a curved. Damn good triggers also

I had about 3000 rounds on my 1301 and the trigger group fell apart on me. I forget what the name of the part was, but there is a left and right bow inside the trigger, one of those broke and tweaked some other stuff. I couldn't find the specific parts so I ended up putting a whole new trigger group in it which cost about $300. Other than that, the gun ran great.

Not in the works for Beretta yet. Just Benelli so far, and stoeger and Remington in the works

As others have mentioned, doubling up is nice. Having amplification over plugs is nice for RO commands, and conversations. I prefer Decibullz plugs however. Most of the time, I just wear the plugs without doubling up.

I have one as well. These work great, you just have to choose between one of these or a stage burner

There are two main ways to think about shotgun ammo for 3 gun (assuming you are referring to birdshot). You can stick with one choke like an IC, and run different ammo for different stages (such as 1145s for easy stuff, 1200 for most everything, and 1300 for hard knockdowns). Or you can run one ammo like 1200 for everything and adjust with different chokes such as cylinder, IC, LM etc. Or do a combination of the two. I find it easiest to run 1200 fps birdshot and adjust chokes per stage design. I will run 1145 fps if its just clays. What are you running for a shotgun? Not everything runs 1145 FPS reliably.

stuck one once in an 870 when I was younger. soaked it in a bath of penetrating oil overnight, then put a choke wrench on a ratchet and got it out. Since then, I just clean my chokes with CLP or similar product after every match when I clean my guns. Keeps em from sticking.

Like previously mentioned, Loctite works great to keep it from moving. I still had one rotate on me even with Loctite, so what I did on the last one is remove the fiber sight, and drill a small hole and set a roll pin through the sight and through the rib (then obviously put the fiber back in). This will prevent it from rotating. Or you could drill and tap another screw, but I didn't have a tap set that small. Most guys will say its not necessary, but its a little extra step I take to make sure it doesn't rotate.

Carver Custom

HiViz Tricomp and XS rear

I typically zero hoser ammo at 200 yards. But if I have a match with a lot of long distance, I will zero the first hash mark on my 1-6 razor at 300. Rest of the hash marks line up great, and the difference at 100 with my hoser ammo is negligible.

I currently use a bladetech WRS with Invictus holster hanger, but much prefer G code. But they don't make one to long dust covers like my edge. I bought one for a short dust cover and am trying to reform it with a heat gun. I'm 95% the way there, but I evidently suck with kydex

I use IC 50% of time, LM 45% of the time, the other 5% is either C or M

I had a supersport for trap. Maybe shot 3K rounds through it, which isn't much. Loved the gun, but moved to O/U. I'd maybe just replace the recoil spring and give it a good cleaning. Bluing is thin on the Supersports in my opinion, mine started wearing off also.

My M2 is at Hawkeye now getting the full race package. Like MOBRIEN, my gun went right from Arnzen Arms to Hawkeye. I've seen plenty of his work and he's pretty popular in my area. Considerably cheaper than some of the other options available for custom work.

No it has not

Having issues occasionally with my m2 jamming on the shell catch. The gun was new a couple months ago. I installed a welded lifter, +9 nordic tube and spring. I also modified the shell catch a little because it was hard to load when new. I increased the size of the u shaped cutouts a little bit and bent the shell catch just a little bit away from the shell and it now loads much easier. However, once in a while the last she'll from the tube comes out most of the way and gets stuck by the shell catch. the issue is not the mag spring as it is 17" past the tube. I have also tried 3 different flowers with no change, and ammo doesn't matter. It is obviuous at this point it is something with the shell catch and I will likely replace it but I want to know why this is happening. Anyone with experience on this exact issue? I know most people's similar issues are related to a short spring. This is not the case and it does it with the factory spring and no tube extension.

I am the previously mentioned "cousin" with both platforms. I really love shooting my 1301, but couldn't quad load it very well. I like many other people kept hitting the shells on the front of the loading port and bobbled my loading. Some people have no issues, but quite a few of the shooters experience my issues. I welded the lifter, and did some serious dremel work to the loading port which helped. I decided to get the m2 which I can load much faster. Now that I can quad load my m2 really well and can quad load my 1301 better since I have more practice with the loading style, but still catch shells on the face of the loading port occasionally and am consistently 1/2 to 3/4 seconds slower with the 1301. Long story short, the 1301 is a pleasure to shoot especially with slugs, but seconds count and I now shoot an m2.

I have a 24" 1301 with a +7 Nordic tube to give me 12+1. It is about 6" past the barrel. No issues with the length. I prefer 12+1 for quad loading as I like the tube to be a multiple of the loading style (load 4 for me). I started with a 10+1 and ended up adding a +2 extension to the end because I could only do two quad loads and then a load two to top it off. In a match I don't want to have to think that hard. As far as your tube being to long, I would say no as your shot won't hit the tube or anything like that. I don't think a 14 round tube will be a problem in barrels either. My only recommendation is make sure you use a clamp to help hold the tube in place as that is a lot of leverage on the tube and it could break when you throw it in a barrel. my 2 cents...

Another vote for vortex razor with JM reticle. The small bright dot is great for long range shooting. There is a lot less clutter in the reticle than the Burris.

I vote for the 1301. I also did all the loading Port work and welded the lifter. It shoots slugs very well. I have shot the VM comp and prefer my 1301.

I don't think the 18.5 inch tactical has the beveled loading port, which is a must on that gun for 3G

I recently acquired a razor hd 1-6 with JM reticle and love it. I haven't shot any long distance yet but the smaller daylight bright dot is awesome. Couldn't ask for anything better, except maybe a little cheaper...

My opinion is you need low base dies. They size the brass all the way to the end, which is likely where they are sticking in your rifle. Regular dies don't hit the last 1/8th inch or so. If you are getting new dies, try the rcbs low base and I bet that helps

Great article, Patrick