RigPig

I like assembling, others will pay to have a complete. I've fixed enough factory guns for buddies that had loose barrel nuts that I don't trust someone's assembly just because it has a name on it. With assembling yourself you have control over the quality of your upper and get to choose each component. For me, I wanted a JP GMR-13 but didn't like the upper receiver or handguard options and wasn't going to pay a premium for their billet .223 receiver. Instead, I purchased an Aero slick-side upper, JP bolt and barrel, Seekins 15" NOXs handrail and AP Manufacturing brake . I have about $640 in my upper using quality parts by catching sales and buying the barrel in SS. Leaves enough left over for the red dot.

I bought a KVP initially to save some dough, but returned it after looking it over. Machining was very rough, the rails had sharp burrs and the bolt face had tooling chatter pits in it. The "QPQ" was also horrible on it. Went with a known quality in JP and DSG has a sale ending tomorrow for 15% off all in-stock inventory, making it $206 shipped to my door. Ordered yesterday at noon and on the truck hours later. https://dsgarms.com/jpbc-9mma

Good to hear ETS is going to stand behind their mag, even though it was a casualty of what looks like a design flaw of the lower. I run exclusively ETS mags in my competition Glocks and have a dozen of the 31s for my PCC.

I ordered the Hiperfire 24c from Optics Planet last night for my home brew using a JP bolt. I noticed Optics Planet will give you a discount code if you have a page open on certain items for a few minutes. I was mulling over the Hiperfire vs Rise RA-535 and when I clicked back to the Hiperfire page, there was a code on the screen to save $35. Made the 24c $188.75 with free shipping, so I ordered two on separate invoices to get the deal on both. That's the best price I've seen, and I'll put the other one in my 3-gun rifle.

This has been what's kept me from ordering a JP GMR-13; that antiquated handguard and no options on their build page. I went next-best and ordered a JP barrel and bolt, and will be using the Seekins NOXs m-lok on a AP slick upper.

Like others have said, practice practice practice. I started in 3-gun with an FNX-9. Went to a M&P 40L within a few matches, and to a G17L soon after. The very next season, I bought 3 2011s and shot them in various disciplines for 3 years. I've since had 2 kids and prefer to stay home over shooting every weekend, so I've downsized to a G34. I've practiced enough and competed enough at this point that the Glock isn't holding me back. I shoot it just as well as I did $4k custom 2011s. I wasted a lot of time and money chasing the dragon, when all I needed was practice and experience with one platform.

OP, we must shoot at the same clubs. We've got a local who smokes the biggest, stinkiest (sp?) cigars during the entire match. Like your local smokestack, he's got to be right in the middle of everything, and he doesn't even put it down to shoot. There's actually two I can think of, but I only shoot at the one's local club every other month, and thankfully they don't shoot the same matches. It'd be nice if all stogie smokers would leave it on the golf course or in their cars/homes.

I've been using the Nordic 12rd tube on my Vinci Speedbolt now for almost two years. I haven't had any problems with it, I do use a barrel clamp with the extra length of the +9 tube.

I buy powder and primers whenever and wherever I find it. It isn't hoarding if I use it. Blaming others for one's own lack of foresight does no good. I bought more than I loaded before the bust, only buying what you shoot up is dumb. Buy 4 or 8lbs at a time, powder's available a lot more frequently now. Buy primers by the case, buy bullets by the case. Buy up any and all the reasonably-priced once-fired cases you can find a place for. Those of us who bought more than we shoot are doing so twofold now, I don't want to ever run out.ETA: it's just like those who shoot factory ammo, and only keep enough around for the next outing or match. Keep at least 1k rounds of every caliber you shoot on hand. For .22, keep 10k. It isn't hard or expensive, prices are coming down fast. I've known guys who bought guns and bought guns, but only kept a couple boxes of ammo around. When things dried up, they couldn't shoot their guns

I'd move to Texas Hill Country regardless of whether I shot or not. It just so happens to be the most beautiful place on Earth AND has a lot of matches in the area.

Head, arms then legs with pistol. Won't hardly move at all. With shotgun, I shoot one of the bottom plates off to get it spinning fast, keep aimed at where the fallen plate was and keep pulling the trigger, matching your cadence to the speed of the plates, and dump all the plates in a nice little pile.

Entry is in the mail. I've heard good things about years passed and I'm looking forward to this year's match!

Is Springfield still offering 3 free mags with purchase? That'd give you a total of 5. The answers to your last questions are "red" and "I like using motor oil on my 2011s and 1911s. One quart will last you a lifetime." I personally use 15w40 Rotella synthetic, because I buy it by the 55gal drum for my diesel trucks.

Thanks for the info! I've got a 4lb party keg of AutoComp on the shelf I've been wondering what to do with.

My minor load is 3.2gr of TG behind a 165gr Berry's FP plated and CCI 500 or Win SPP at 1.17 OAL. Shoots really flat and soft. Use this in both a 5" and 6" 2011.

I'm still "hoarding" powder of any kind I might remotely use or keep around for trade fodder. I'll buy a couple pounds whenever I find it, usually TiteGroup or Varget. I do the same with 22LR, it's about the only factory ammo I buy anymore. I'm sitting on a respectable stash now, but I still don't feel comfortable with what I have. I may have a hoarding problem.

Doesn't Freedom use panel cuts as well? Looks like a nice build!

All companies say to start the exact opposite way. Go fully closed and slowly open. I find this way to be much more reliable.

For the money, I'd invest in a Springfield Range Officer in 9mm. Not much more money, but a whole lot more gun.

This thread is worthless without pics!!!

Another vote for getting into reloading first. I started shortly after putting together a custom 17L to squeeze as little recoil as possible out of that gun, and to afford myself to shoot more often. Don't let anyone lie to you and tell you you'll save money by reloading. You're money will go further buying components, but you'll end up shooting more and therefore, spending more. I can typically reload pistol cartridges for about half that of buying factory loads. I have been buying reman Freedom .223 because it's a penny or two per round more than me buying rifle cartridge components.

I think the best way to dial in a low mass bolt carrier is with the adjustable gas block. Starting with the gas block all the way open and using the lightest .223 load you have, shoot a few rounds and dial the gas block down until the rifle quits cycling, then open it back up a couple notches. I run a JP LMOS in the comp rifle, with the lightened BC, JP tuned rifle spring and JP low mass rifle buffer. I run these behind a Nordic 18" rifle barrel that has a gas port that is supposedly tuned to run a low mass system with a fixed gas block. I haven't had any reliability issues. I can't "feel" any reduced recoil, but my Vortex Razor HD 1-6x staying on the target at 6 power doesn't lie. I notice less reticle movement even at 1x. I use an Apex brake as well.

I installed an EGW tungsten rod in an Eagle I have since sold. I shoot an Edge in USPSA and was trying to make the Eagle more muzzle-heavy like the Edge. It made a noticeable difference in the muzzle weight of the pistol, and I felt as though it made the gun shoot that much flatter. Was it real or perceived? I couldn't tell you but I did shoot the gun faster and more accurately after install. I beveled the head of the guiderod with a bench grinder and that is all that was needed to "fit" it to the gun. I used the stainless bushing it came with. The head diameter on the STI guiderod is smaller than the 1911 head, so get the STI rod so you don't have to file down the head to fit in the STI frame. It was worth the $100 to me, made the gun more fun to shoot anyway. I hadn't heard of any failing. Tungsten is more brittle than carbon steel, so it could happen I suppose.

Camo is a lot uglier on a shotgun than most anything we do to them. I run a 12rd tube on my 24" Vinci and the funny looks and questions at the trap club are interesting conversation starters, to say the least.

The shotgun portion of 3gun is more about the loading than shooting, IMO. Most everyone can shoot a shotgun at least halfway accurately, not everyone can load fast on the move. The shotgun is the great equalizer in our sport. Those who curse loading tube guns generally suck at it, and pull their skirt on one leg at a time to go play in open. Everyone has those two or three guys/gals at their club that can kill it on rifle and pistol, and then the shotgun knocks them down a few notches on the match results.