BigBoss

Hey South Bend I thought you had received the other Spring I sent because you never contacted me to say otherwise. In all fairness if I didn't know how could I remedy it. This is right after Irma hit and shipping was all messed up in Florida. I know exactly who you are so I'll get a few 4.5# springs out to you ASAP.

Are you sure it's the reach and not the the fact that the 34 comes stock with a - minus connector. This creates longer break Travel but a shorter reset. So If it's taking longer to break the shot the chance of milking the gun is present and if your already off Target consecutive shots could follow the same trajectory. If you were pulling ONLY on your first shot the reach would be a factor. however unless you're slapping the trigger then it could be reach and the minus connector. I would change to a 5.5 standard Connector and a Gen 3 bar. Gen 2 to 4 is a huge difference in feel not to mention Glock changed t he bar and housing Again last year in the Gen 4 platform. Glock will call it an upgrade but why would you change something unless there was a reason/problem. The Gen 3 bar had a few changes all for the better. I don't think many people know the exact reason why gen 4 went to the 3600 bar from the 2 dot.

If I may. Knowing how the firing system functions as a whole is of primary importance. So a (-) connector will give you less resistance at the wall, MORE sponge due to the graduated 80 degree angle and a shorter reset for the same reason. The 6# trigger Spring counter tension against the 4.5# Striker spring is the recipe for a neutral or slow reset as the Striker is at a 1.5# disadvantage. You'll be waiting on the trigger where as with a #5 Spring the 1/2# counter tension will allow for a positive aggressive reset thereby letting the Springs do the work so your finger can relax. If you understand Trigger control moreover how muscles actually function the benefits of what I explained above will be remarkably clear. There's more to this if you exam things clearly and closely.. Or you could buy the prettiest darnd Trigger you can find on Instagram ? BTW in skilled hands those can be reworked into YOUR perfect trigger. It depends on your definition of perfect.

Just wanted to hear if anyone else has noticed the/an incompatibility of the new 3600&3600-1 Gen 4 trigger bars when paired with anything else other than the new Gen 4 trigger housing (I don't believe they changed it's # but it is definitely different). Also the Gen 4 (..) bar seem to not seat in the new housing. Not to mention the new polymer blend of that new housing is WAY different ANY previous trigger housing. Glock is known for it's usage of the term "upgrade" when they are in all actuality addressing an issue. The issue is apparent if enough of them have passed through your hands. However an "upgrade" that makes prior trigger parts obsolete is a new one for Glock. Any one else experiencing any of this?

The company Dasan which is headquartered in South Korea is currently moving from Duluth Georgia to I believe Idaho. So production is stalled. Here's a video of a 17 l lone wolf build.

Have you checked the slide to frame tolerance? These frames go from injection to handling in 90 seconds when produced. Anytime I've experienced what your describing the tabs(that run in the slide channel)either were high on only one side or the 2 forward tabs are bilateral high. This extra play leaves a gap between the lug and the block causing the barrel to rachet. Also make sure that the Slide Lock Lever has the groove facing towards the lug and not the opposite.

It has been my experience that a #4.5 Wolff striker spring will undoubtedly ignite any primer for approximately 5-6000 rounds. Paired with a 3.5 oemconnector that is a 2.5-3.5# trigger break weight is a no brainier if you know what you're doing. It just becomes mushy due to the 3.5 connector angle and transfer bar radius. That's with no set screws mind you. Glock.recommends all upper springs striker, firing pin safety, and extractor plunger be replaced at 15,000 round count. Exception is recoil spring gen1-3 3,000 gen 4 6000. Not all springs are equal. Even if they are advertised at a specific weight tension. Different steel mix, processing, gauge, and coil count all factor in. There are springs companies that are sub par for sure. Now beyond that conceiving, designing, building, and testing a Glock trigger system that functions reliably , consistently, and safety at lighter weights regardless of spring tension is an entirely different than replacing parts for parts. Of course the connector factors in but does not entirely dictate pull weight either. That is if you know how to with knowledge, wisdom, and experience go beyond the parts as is and manipulate and modify them to behave exactly how your customer or self sees fit. Some of the crispiest, lightest breaks I've ever built were with a 8# (+) connector and all stock parts. Now that's the easier part of the action the tricky part is retaining a short reset. The stock parts will take care of the quick, positive, palpable/tactile part. Remember for every modification there will be a compromise somewhere in the system. It might not show up right away but it will manifest at some point. Hence the latest Glock Gen 4 move to the 3600 bar and phasing out the 2 dot (..) bar and the housing has changed as well. That can be a whole other thread. They are PC called upgrades and not recalls. Why do they need replaced if there was nothing wrong. Because even Glock Perfection has 65%of LEO's giving them feedback hence back to R&D it goes. That is if it's a big enough issue. So the holy Grail can exists with a Glock. It might just may need a vacation to the sunshine state in order to find it. I have a few myself. Holy Grails that is.

those # have nothing to do with upgraded parts. Glock uses a few different companies to manufacture there parts the #1,2 denote the origin of manufacture not newer part. There are slight differences in the polymer mix that can be distinguished by feel when drilling and tapping these housings but for the most part given the tolerance range of these mass manufactured parts they are one and the same

Can you explain why and who makes these decisions

This is interesting because I personally speak with Every shooter that I build a group for as well as keep performance/function records,safety records,and configuration&calibration notes for possible reorders.I don'the have you Adam in any of my data bases. which means you are either being dishonest when you stated you have"tried them all" or you got a group of mine 2nd hand. In which case I did not build it for you specifically. so maybe you can explain your claim? Plus I have 3 different generations of triggers out there now. First was the boss 2nd the level1-3 for edc/ccw and Comp beyond now I have my NEXT GENERATION. So which trigger group was in your Glock?

you can keep the stock connector and reduce the pull weight 2.5-3# as well as shorten the reset by two-thirds. it's all in the knowledge of how to re radius the transfer bar to lessen glide resistance.Of course this will give you a ton of creep so if your a fan of the rolling break you're good to go however if you like a crisp tactical glass rod break then you have to know how to re angle the seer to accommodate for that.my 42kit is just a bar with an adjustable set screw for pre travel a five pound spring because it's the only one that will ensure primer ignition and a reduced power safety plunger spring.it will transform the 42 from a staple gun trigger feel to a beautifully refined tactical trigger with amazing feedback.

I sent you a PM. My new NEXT GENERATION GROUPS have some amazing refinements and over a year of solid R&D. These Custom groups are mechanically flawless, functionally reliable, and consistently predictable. If your looking for no "MUSH" how does 1/16th wall to glass rod break travel with matching 1/16th reset sound- did I mention 2.25# break weight with a 4.5# striker spring and if your a Federal only loader 2# with the 4# striker spring. Even though I love Glock think of it this way a Lotus turbo engine dropped into a Chevy. Check your messages my friend

If you were just taping the safety tab and it hung up/ did not pop back out then that sounds like a problem with the trigger safety tab itself or if your running a 6# trigger spring that's a lot of counter tension against your 4.5# striker spring but still it should not really have this issue other than a dragging reset which just means slow. Also make sure your trigger spring is seated correctly if it's not it can add some extra tension to that springs function. I have no idea how you were even able to install that striker with those cups backwards!!!THAT'S CRAZY Sounds like you got it up and running. Quick question Was the trigger safety actually going into the frame of the gun or after tapping was it still sitting neutral?

If that is a pic of the malfunction then the reset tab is indicating that the beak of the transfer bar is definitely in a pre-reset position. Look at the rounded tab at 3 oclock see how it's a bit away from the slide material- that's the give away. Now where the drag or pinning is coming from is another thing. Since it does work most of the time I would say in my experience with zev triggers it is the trigger safety tab hanging up on the frame. That's a pretty powerful little bugger and because your finger is not depressing it when you rack the slide for the first time it does not have the counter pressure of your finger to keep it from hanging up. And BTW I am a Glock registered advanced armorer with current certification. If you PM me I can tell you how to fix it or I can tell everyone in case they run into the same issue. And as stated back out the pre travel it will give the trigger a little more return inertia. Only bend the seer if you have to heat it to a glow and just a tad if force will do it but then you need to re-polish and honestly if you haven't done this type of mod it at least =30/50 times you will more than very very likely be buying a new bar.

Sorry I need to edit a few things it should be if they are running a tab controlled reset ghost have or a set screw control reset.I forgot check the connector as well