BigBoss

Hey South Bend I thought you had received the other Spring I sent because you never contacted me to say otherwise. In all fairness if I didn't know how could I remedy it. This is right after Irma hit and shipping was all messed up in Florida. I know exactly who you are so I'll get a few 4.5# springs out to you ASAP.

Are you sure it's the reach and not the the fact that the 34 comes stock with a - minus connector. This creates longer break Travel but a shorter reset. So If it's taking longer to break the shot the chance of milking the gun is present and if your already off Target consecutive shots could follow the same trajectory. If you were pulling ONLY on your first shot the reach would be a factor. however unless you're slapping the trigger then it could be reach and the minus connector. I would change to a 5.5 standard Connector and a Gen 3 bar. Gen 2 to 4 is a huge difference in feel not to mention Glock changed t he bar and housing Again last year in the Gen 4 platform. Glock will call it an upgrade but why would you change something unless there was a reason/problem. The Gen 3 bar had a few changes all for the better. I don't think many people know the exact reason why gen 4 went to the 3600 bar from the 2 dot.

If I may. Knowing how the firing system functions as a whole is of primary importance. So a (-) connector will give you less resistance at the wall, MORE sponge due to the graduated 80 degree angle and a shorter reset for the same reason. The 6# trigger Spring counter tension against the 4.5# Striker spring is the recipe for a neutral or slow reset as the Striker is at a 1.5# disadvantage. You'll be waiting on the trigger where as with a #5 Spring the 1/2# counter tension will allow for a positive aggressive reset thereby letting the Springs do the work so your finger can relax. If you understand Trigger control moreover how muscles actually function the benefits of what I explained above will be remarkably clear. There's more to this if you exam things clearly and closely.. Or you could buy the prettiest darnd Trigger you can find on Instagram ? BTW in skilled hands those can be reworked into YOUR perfect trigger. It depends on your definition of perfect.

Just wanted to hear if anyone else has noticed the/an incompatibility of the new 3600&3600-1 Gen 4 trigger bars when paired with anything else other than the new Gen 4 trigger housing (I don't believe they changed it's # but it is definitely different). Also the Gen 4 (..) bar seem to not seat in the new housing. Not to mention the new polymer blend of that new housing is WAY different ANY previous trigger housing. Glock is known for it's usage of the term "upgrade" when they are in all actuality addressing an issue. The issue is apparent if enough of them have passed through your hands. However an "upgrade" that makes prior trigger parts obsolete is a new one for Glock. Any one else experiencing any of this?

The company Dasan which is headquartered in South Korea is currently moving from Duluth Georgia to I believe Idaho. So production is stalled. Here's a video of a 17 l lone wolf build.

Have you checked the slide to frame tolerance? These frames go from injection to handling in 90 seconds when produced. Anytime I've experienced what your describing the tabs(that run in the slide channel)either were high on only one side or the 2 forward tabs are bilateral high. This extra play leaves a gap between the lug and the block causing the barrel to rachet. Also make sure that the Slide Lock Lever has the groove facing towards the lug and not the opposite.

It has been my experience that a #4.5 Wolff striker spring will undoubtedly ignite any primer for approximately 5-6000 rounds. Paired with a 3.5 oemconnector that is a 2.5-3.5# trigger break weight is a no brainier if you know what you're doing. It just becomes mushy due to the 3.5 connector angle and transfer bar radius. That's with no set screws mind you. Glock.recommends all upper springs striker, firing pin safety, and extractor plunger be replaced at 15,000 round count. Exception is recoil spring gen1-3 3,000 gen 4 6000. Not all springs are equal. Even if they are advertised at a specific weight tension. Different steel mix, processing, gauge, and coil count all factor in. There are springs companies that are sub par for sure. Now beyond that conceiving, designing, building, and testing a Glock trigger system that functions reliably , consistently, and safety at lighter weights regardless of spring tension is an entirely different than replacing parts for parts. Of course the connector factors in but does not entirely dictate pull weight either. That is if you know how to with knowledge, wisdom, and experience go beyond the parts as is and manipulate and modify them to behave exactly how your customer or self sees fit. Some of the crispiest, lightest breaks I've ever built were with a 8# (+) connector and all stock parts. Now that's the easier part of the action the tricky part is retaining a short reset. The stock parts will take care of the quick, positive, palpable/tactile part. Remember for every modification there will be a compromise somewhere in the system. It might not show up right away but it will manifest at some point. Hence the latest Glock Gen 4 move to the 3600 bar and phasing out the 2 dot (..) bar and the housing has changed as well. That can be a whole other thread. They are PC called upgrades and not recalls. Why do they need replaced if there was nothing wrong. Because even Glock Perfection has 65%of LEO's giving them feedback hence back to R&D it goes. That is if it's a big enough issue. So the holy Grail can exists with a Glock. It might just may need a vacation to the sunshine state in order to find it. I have a few myself. Holy Grails that is.

those # have nothing to do with upgraded parts. Glock uses a few different companies to manufacture there parts the #1,2 denote the origin of manufacture not newer part. There are slight differences in the polymer mix that can be distinguished by feel when drilling and tapping these housings but for the most part given the tolerance range of these mass manufactured parts they are one and the same

Can you explain why and who makes these decisions

This is interesting because I personally speak with Every shooter that I build a group for as well as keep performance/function records,safety records,and configuration&calibration notes for possible reorders.I don'the have you Adam in any of my data bases. which means you are either being dishonest when you stated you have"tried them all" or you got a group of mine 2nd hand. In which case I did not build it for you specifically. so maybe you can explain your claim? Plus I have 3 different generations of triggers out there now. First was the boss 2nd the level1-3 for edc/ccw and Comp beyond now I have my NEXT GENERATION. So which trigger group was in your Glock?

you can keep the stock connector and reduce the pull weight 2.5-3# as well as shorten the reset by two-thirds. it's all in the knowledge of how to re radius the transfer bar to lessen glide resistance.Of course this will give you a ton of creep so if your a fan of the rolling break you're good to go however if you like a crisp tactical glass rod break then you have to know how to re angle the seer to accommodate for that.my 42kit is just a bar with an adjustable set screw for pre travel a five pound spring because it's the only one that will ensure primer ignition and a reduced power safety plunger spring.it will transform the 42 from a staple gun trigger feel to a beautifully refined tactical trigger with amazing feedback.

I sent you a PM. My new NEXT GENERATION GROUPS have some amazing refinements and over a year of solid R&D. These Custom groups are mechanically flawless, functionally reliable, and consistently predictable. If your looking for no "MUSH" how does 1/16th wall to glass rod break travel with matching 1/16th reset sound- did I mention 2.25# break weight with a 4.5# striker spring and if your a Federal only loader 2# with the 4# striker spring. Even though I love Glock think of it this way a Lotus turbo engine dropped into a Chevy. Check your messages my friend

If you were just taping the safety tab and it hung up/ did not pop back out then that sounds like a problem with the trigger safety tab itself or if your running a 6# trigger spring that's a lot of counter tension against your 4.5# striker spring but still it should not really have this issue other than a dragging reset which just means slow. Also make sure your trigger spring is seated correctly if it's not it can add some extra tension to that springs function. I have no idea how you were even able to install that striker with those cups backwards!!!THAT'S CRAZY Sounds like you got it up and running. Quick question Was the trigger safety actually going into the frame of the gun or after tapping was it still sitting neutral?

If that is a pic of the malfunction then the reset tab is indicating that the beak of the transfer bar is definitely in a pre-reset position. Look at the rounded tab at 3 oclock see how it's a bit away from the slide material- that's the give away. Now where the drag or pinning is coming from is another thing. Since it does work most of the time I would say in my experience with zev triggers it is the trigger safety tab hanging up on the frame. That's a pretty powerful little bugger and because your finger is not depressing it when you rack the slide for the first time it does not have the counter pressure of your finger to keep it from hanging up. And BTW I am a Glock registered advanced armorer with current certification. If you PM me I can tell you how to fix it or I can tell everyone in case they run into the same issue. And as stated back out the pre travel it will give the trigger a little more return inertia. Only bend the seer if you have to heat it to a glow and just a tad if force will do it but then you need to re-polish and honestly if you haven't done this type of mod it at least =30/50 times you will more than very very likely be buying a new bar.

Sorry I need to edit a few things it should be if they are running a tab controlled reset ghost have or a set screw control reset.I forgot check the connector as well

You need to run a diagnosis. 1st put an armorers half backplate on. As stated before if too much surface area of the seer is visible under the striker then that definitely has to be fixed. Glock allows one third of the surface area to be visible. next make sure the striker has a 90 degree angle and it is engaging the seer flush. Even a few degrees oblique can cause the striker to re-release. If this person is running they tab Controlled reset for a set screw control reset they may have maximized their tolerance on which case the gun will fire when you attempt to reset the trigger. Also if they are running enlightened striker check for burs concentrations on the shelfof the striker and/or safety plunger this is sometimes caused those two parts to stick positioning the seer forward enoughposition it could just catch and then re-release but thats a long shot. Generally check slide to frame fit if the gun is not fully in battery as well as the window in the trigger housing. These issues usually happen due to something called stacking tolerances so it's probably not just one thing. A little bit here a little bit there and off she goes

If your worried about the ejector and extractor issues have a Glock certified armorer or pistol smith order them and show you how to switch them out. It's quite simple less than 2 min tops they cost 5 for the housing w/ejector which you can just pull out and 10 for the LCI extractor.

It's awesome to do it this way!! Also you can gather from my custom calibrated and configured trigger systems I'm not into the cookie cutter 1 size fits all model !!

It's either a 2-56 shoulder set screw the uses a .035 hex key or a 3-56 that uses a 0.050 hex key. I would definitely push for an entire new shoe w/trigger bar. If there's a problem getting a new one, which I highly doubt as ZEV has always done right by me then PM me and I can get you sorted out. I have all these types of screws at hand reach. Good Luck- pre travel setting would have nothing to do with it. If it was TOO tight the safety will just not pop out and rest on the gun frame. The pre set calibration is the "average Setting" You can push that trigger quite a bit.

Adam,Just bring your gun up to Sarasota and I'll create a custom Masterpiece right to your EXACT prefered grip. 3.5 hrs max and we can pass the gun back and forth till it's just how you want!!! I primarily do triggers as you know but I've done well over 300 reductions and a variety of stipple textures.

Every Glock that leaves the USA factory is shot if I remember correctly 5x. It looked more like 12 yds. I think they take fire arms randomly to ensure calibration standards by testing more throughly

I agree nicely put DK! I know this post got totally hi jacked but it's all good stuff. As DK and BoyGlock stated already it is all about safety. I know if I read a post and it seems off then I question for safety sake and knowledge . I feel if someone knows better and says nothing out of fear of being misinterpreted as a know it all or better than then they are not doing there due diligence to prevent a possible fatal AD. I have witnessed first hand catastrophes that just wreck life's and tear communities apart that could have easily been avoided had someone who known better said something. The reason I love this forum is because there is a lot of experience and knowledge here. It can get heated now and again but when your passionate about what you do that's part of the turf. Most of the time it's so mistaken because it's really hard to decipher tone from the written word on a screen. And DK if I may add -I don't know if any of us would really want EVERY customer out there. It would more than likely take all the fun away from our chosen profession. You know you've arrived when your job never feels like a job. Until tax time that is.

Boom try it yourself but ifyou depress the firing pin safety even halfway you'll see that it will not disengage. that little sucker really needs to be fully pressed in to allow the firing pin to pass through the breach face. and like I said on my edited post the bigger problem is taking too much off the top and following up the shelves on the safety itself. Everyone reading this post would be wise to firing pin safety out and inspect it especially if you're using lightened strikers.

Z

There you go Roosteryou got your answer from the horses mouth.The scalloped mod that thd group you questioned me about uses was originally designed by ZEV. Most assume it's "JUST" for safety but if you study the Glock system it's nearly impossible to achieve fire pin push through until your at the complete zenith of that vertical extension. My take is that since ZEV sells their bar as a standalone unit. They realized that the stock firing pin safety or plunger as some call it is a bevel instead of a radius. So therefore to reduce drag due to unnecessary surface area friction they replaced the bevel to bevel engagement of the stock glock system with a radius thereby reducing potential drag. Now what gets me thinking that it may have just been a cosmetic change so the consumer feels like they're getting something different is the fact that ZEV's aftermarket firing pin safety is rounded. Which puts them right back to two matching surfaces.All and all and the geometry absolutely back my claim is that it is not really necessary to take anything off of that vertical extension.more concerned with that modification is this at that maybe too much was taken off the very top of the vertical extension. This is something that would not be evident only after a weekend of screwed memore concerned with that modification is this at that maybe too much was taken off the very top of the vertical extension. This is something that would not be evident till after maybe 500 to say a thousand rounds but sometimes full show with as little as a hundred. And especially with lightened strikers it becomes more of an issue. What I'm talking about is burrs or serrations on the top shelf of the firing pin safety due to lack of 100% depression. If you take you are firing pin safety out and examine it if this dysfunction is present you will see exactly what I'm talking about. It happens most often with lightened strikers springs and the scalloped vertical extension modification. When this happens it will trap and prevent the striker from returningto resting position immediately after ignition. Therefore the firing pin tip extrude through the breach face and the next round that is stripped will hang up on the firing pin tip