Action Pistolero

I have one if anyone is interested. Glock 20 with a Barsto barrel.

The grip safety is going to be disactivated while you're holstering, so this doesn't seem like a good analogy. A grip safety on the 1911 does not block sear movement or really do anything to prevent the sear from slipping off the hammer hooks. It merely keeps the trigger from moving. The grip safety is not a safety and I would not allow it to "count" for gun abandonment. The thumb safety is the only safe way to make a loaded single action pistol safe. I dont have a dog in the fight, but in many cases this is wrong, quite a few 1911's the grip safety blocks the firing pin. Alla series 80. The Series 80 safety works by the trigger. As the trigger is pulled, there are 2 levers that work together to push up the plunger mounted in the slide. The schwartz safety uses the grip safety to push up the plunger. The only safety worth a darn on the 1911 is the thumb safety. The grip safety is not to be trusted. Rather than require a functional grip safety, have them abandon the pistol either at slide lock or hammer down on an empty chamber with the mag out?

You and I seem to be in the minority on that one. Richard, Where in the hell is this coming from? It's not NRA. Back before we changed the target there were some who wanted to make the x a 10 and the 10 a 9. All that was put to rest.

Mine came with an outlet installed and a cord out the back. It also has LED lights mounted in the channel on either side of the door. There is a spare receptacle for the de-humidifier.

That VV burn rate chart is a mess. I would also not trust it as it shows HP-38 as being faster than 231. Same stuff. I trust the one from Hodgdon much more simply because they now make Winchester powders. I made up my own load for 9x23 and also use it in 38 Spl. I don't like it in a 9mm because of case capacity. If you aren't compressing the powder it's damn close. I believe it needs a little air space in the case.

If you are going to use it for A/P, don't get the remote. Get the one that is hard wired. I know of 2 clubs that have them. The one that is in PA works okay. Once the speed is set correctly, it runs smooth. There is another one in Charlotte, NC that is pretty herky jerky. I don't know if it is the way they have it set up or what. They claim that if they lengthen the cable so that the target can start behind a barricade, there isn't enough ass in the motor to pull the target.

I'm interested how this could happen unless you have no half-cock notch... Half cock worked. When the trigger is pulled the sear is out of the way of the half cock notch. I have only seen this happen to one shooter. Once he disengaged the safety before he went for the trigger the problem went away.

It sounds like your pistol checks out the way it should. Next we have to look at the operator. You didn't specify this but, did the hammer follow after a draw or the first shot after the thumb safety had been engaged prior to the shot? If this is the case, you may be pulling the trigger and then disengaging the thumb safety. When a shooter does this it slows down the hammer enough to not set off the primer. Make sure the thumb safety is disengaged before you touch the trigger.

Sounds to me like you have a reset problem. With an unloaded gun, rack the slide and pull the trigger. Hold the trigger back and rack the gun again. Release the trigger slowly. You should hear a distinctive click. If you don't, put some more pressure on the trigger bow and disconnector by bending the middle finger of the sear spring inward. You can further test it by locking the slide open, hold the trigger back and drop the slide on an empty chamber. The hammer shouldn't follow. I don't recommend doing this often as it is an unnatural act and beats up the breechface and barrel hood.

I believe match pressure comes in different strengths. Once you have experienced a certain level you can overcome it. Several years ago I was at Bianchi shooting the Barricade as my last event. If I cleaned it, I would have scored my highest in a registered match at the time. I told myself that all I needed was 48 tens. After hitting the Barricade several times with the muzzle I threw an 8. Mike Flagler got the whole bloody affair on video. The next year I learned from that and finished up with 48 x's. So I have learned another lesson. I may get the nerves a little but the next time I should be able to shake them. I sure won't be nervous this weekend when I shoot the VA regional and state matches.

Wow! Nice pictures. The only complaint that I would have about the match was the lack of communication. I'm not talking about the language difference. The program had a few things but it would have been better if there was a shooters meeting held the day before to explain things like a sight in range and side events. Other than that, I had a great time and met some great people.

Yea. Yea. Actually, it was more of what was about to happen if I cleaned the mover. It didn't hit me until the last mag and then I couldn't shake it.

Top 3 in Open shot a 1916 separated by x count. Doug, Me and Bruce.

Enter it in the promo code area at checkout.

Graf's is okay. Go to Mid South and check them out. They are running a deal with no Haz Mat now. Forgot to add use promo code FREEHAZ. Has to be an order of $250 or more.

Pretty much all I shoot these days is 9x23 with Starline brass. My fired brass falls right in the chamber. Will the case go into the chamber at all? It would seem to me that with your spring set up and the power factor, you may have a timing issue. In other words, the slide is unlocking before the bullet is leaving the barrel. The case is still expanding as it is being ripped out of the chamber. The reason that the bulge starts 7mm up the case is because the web of the 9x23 case is very thick. I would suggest upping the mainspring to a 17 and a at least a 9lb recoil spring.

You could do it to a blued gun but a little cold blue would be needed. There are some shooters that just cannot deactivate the safety no matter how light it is set. When the rules state that it has to work building up the pad is the only fix. There are two ways to fix your safety without welding. You could put it in a mill vise and squeeze the arm to make it longer. You can also give the arm a good whack with a brass hammer.

You can try tuning it or build the "memory pad" up. I've seen guys use JB weld to build it up and then trim it back down until they can disengage the safety with their hold.

In 20 years of shooting the only case head separation that I ever had was with a friends 40. I believe it was a PMC case. My suggestion would be to only use quality cases. My friend received a 1000 new Starline cases for Christmas that year.

It looks as if the extractor is too tight. Before you loosen extractor tension, make sure the feed ramp is polished like a mirror. A weak recoil spring can also cause this. The extractor tension needs to be just enough to hold a loaded round. Remove the slide, guide rod and barrel. Slide a loaded round under the extractor. Install the barrel and push it up into lock. Push the barrel down and out of the slide. The round should stay under the extractor. Also be sure that there is a relief cut on the bottom side of the extractor where the round starts to go up under the hook.

My 6" is set up for minor. When I put it together I didn't know that the 6" needed a longer spring. I like a heavy muzzle so I installed the tungsten plug and use a 12lb spring. Works fine.

Cominolli makes one for a 5". Brownell's #213-103-001. I use it in my 6" and it does fine.

This is not good. You have done a very good job of helping us feel easier about getting all the paperwork, ammo and travel arrangements.

Thanks, Dirk. Are we going to be able to take our guns from the airport to the hotel? It won't be long now.