Action Pistolero

Yea, I can do 12 hours in my sleep. 18 hours starts to get to me. I hope to make it to Columbia for the weekend. Then it is off to TX. That's a long drive.

Drive? Not flying? I'll be there on Thurs. afternoon. I need an extra day to get my fill of Mud Bugs.

The only red dot on the market today that I am aware of that has a reticle that can be used for a mover lead is the Pride Fowler Action Scope. The Stick Shift works much better.

Hello Lofty, My youngest daughter graduates from high school on the 18th. I wouldn't be able to make it to MI until Sunday anyway so I might as well just go to KC instead of 8 hours out of my way to go to MI. Russell should be there so you could always play the birthday trick on him. We'll make up for lost time in Columbia.

sorry lord kev, cant afford to row the dingy across the ocean this year, besides, have to give you one more chance at the cup before i come over and take it home. not sure immigration will let me back yet, has it been 5 years Your immigration people or mine? Looks like you started something with this Lord Kev stuff.

I don't see why but I hope that I meet your expectations. seems you have achieved cult like status, do you prefer sir or lord kev. Oh brother! Lord Kev would be fine . You going to make the trip this year? Al, I was hoping you would get there a few days sooner. Newlyweds, they just can't separate very long. Ah, the good ol days.

I don't see why but I hope that I meet your expectations. When are you getting into Columbia? Looks like I will be shooting the regional in KC this year. Mark, You may be mentally there now but once you get there, you'll be mentally somewhere else.

Of course!

0.355 (bullet diameter) barrels come short chambered. It means that the chamber is not long enough to chamber a 9mm round. They do this because the same barrel can be used for 9mm, 38 Super, 38 Super comp, and 9x23. Chamber reaming is the easiest part of the barrel fit. I do it last. The barrel hood needs to be fit to the slide as well as the front of the barrel where it fits into the slide. Once you get the barrel to go into lock, The feet can then be cut. For the longest time, I didn't fit my own barrels. I watched my gunsmith do it a bunch before I attempted it.

The only one that I can think of is the Hogue Avenger. It locks to the frame like a Marvel conversion.

Brass is cleaned before reloading because the dirt on the cases will scratch the carbide insert in the die. Once scratched, it will scratch the cases. These scratches could cause the case walls to thin and prematurely split. The only thing to worry about on the inside of the case is gravel or other debris that can brake off the decapping pin.

As you should know, I'm just giving you a load of crap. As long as it goes bang everytime it will do well for a beginner. Afterall, the only reason for a super accurate gun is to allow the shooter to make small mistakes and get away with them. By the time a beginner finds out how much fun we have and can out shoot the gun, they can sink more money in a better gun. I wish I could have put my first A/P gun together for that price. By the time I figured most of this stuff out on my own, I had $4000 in it. My current guns aren't that much.

1.0005" at 25M, not good enough! It needs to be better than that.

The 48th. You gave up. You know why I don't like the 9 in a 1911.

He's still got another .7" to go. My Ron Power revolver will do 1.2" Not bad for a parts gun. Richard is just trying to stir up the pot with the crack about Grant's gun. The only disadvantage Grant has now has to do with him being a southpaw. The gun runs fine but the thumb gets in the way now and then. The empty cases tend to hit his thumb and bounce back into the ejection port. Notice he is using the gun as a backup. Even he knows the 9 is not as reliable in the 1911.

I was loading for a friends P9 on my 1050. I had the same problem that you are having. I finally determined that it was the crimp. I had the crimp die set too low and it was bulging the base of the case. I backed off the crimp die and from then on, all the rounds were fine.

I'm blaming my latest problems on the scope. It's sure not the ammo. Shot a 31x barricade with a hole in the left target that you could cover with a 50 cent piece. Too bad they were almost all in the 10 ring. Mover and Prac were a sad state of affairs. Finished under 1900. Hopefully it is fixed after some modifications to the scope rings.

Ed, According to the Zero website the #160 is a 121 gr JHP not 125. I tried the 121 HAP years ago and never had any luck with it. That doesn't mean they won't work for you. The only bullets that I have are the #135 and the #161. If you want 50 of each send me a PM with your address. I just buzzed through you state today. Thanks Kim. We may have handle it.

Mine used to shoot .356's better, until I shot the new HAP Style 115gr .355 (sorry, don't know the #). 135

Okay. Let's stick to the product numbers to keep things straight. Since the #136 125 gr shows to be a 9mm bullet I think you are right. It would be a .355. #161 is the 125 gr 38 Super which is .356. I found them at Shooters Connection.

I tried Autocomp when it first came out. I didn't like it. As the name implies, it was developed to make the comp work. It is real snappy. I can't remember the load but I started out below the listed starting load.

Try 4.6 of WST with the Zero 125gr. OAL should be about 1.230. WST is reverse temp sensitive so the shorter the round the less sensitive it gets. When testing the load for groups, shoot 200 rounds. The Zero's like a fouled barrel.

Glad you are okay. This is the reason that I have the swage rod in mine. When the handle gets springy I know I have a problem. I had some cases that, when de-primed, left the sides of the primer cup in the case. I felt the handle get springy but ignored it. I set off a few primers because of this. Scared the crap out of me.

You were getting light strikes because you weren't pushing the grip safety far enough in to push the plunger out of the way of the firing pin. I have the same gun and the same problem. I left all of the parts in mine. I put my slide in a vise, pushed in the plunger and used a punch on the sides of the plunger to stake it in place. I believe what they call the firing pin block safety is a Schwartz safety. The series 80 uses the trigger to push up the plunger and the Schwartz uses the grip safety to do it.

Valley hell. It's in a bowl! The Mover barricades are not steel. They are WOODEN!!!!!!!