Darqusoull13

Sport Pistol is about as good as you can get for 9 mm. It's super clean, consistent, cooler for long practices in summer and relatively fills the case more than powders like Titegroup.

It also wouldn't cycle a bunch of factory guns. Remember, there's still folks buying what is known as "Any In Stock Ammo" right now that have no idea what SCSA is. The fact that companies are even branding ammo for the game is a positive step. If you want bleeding edge reliability, you're going to have to reload.

I'm also in the minority of shooters that prefer and shoot a slightly heavier PCC. The ultralights move too much on transitions and don't settle as well on long shots for me. I also prefer a much heavier rifle in 3 gun competitions for similar reasons. In both, I've found minimal gain from a wicked light rifle. Instead my times and hits are objectively better with mid-weight setup.

What if I get all the best advice on the tailgate of an old Dodge with a case of beer at 10 in the morning? To answer the original question, 2-3 training classes a year to identify the bulk of my dry and live fire areas of practice. In season, daily dry fire ~15 minutes with 2-3 live fire practices or matches a week. As far as socks, I'm finding the MAIN TRAIL EVERYDAY NO SHOW SOCK to be ideal for practice but I prefer the PURSUIT TRAIL ACTIVE SOCK, NO-SHOW when I'm training folks.

Honestly, on the hand guard to get questions on social. It's funny that people don't think you can use the rail, much less an index, to aim at the distances you're using an offset most of the time. Running a holo like a UH-1 made me realize I don't really use the offset all that much with such a big window.

I dry tumble with a bit of brass polish and walnut media after the resize and trim steps for rifle. That gets the lube off and makes things nice and shiny. Adding a used dryer sheet seems to also collect any shavings or burrs although I chamfer and deburr after the dry tumble anyway.

A barrel, comp and bolt is usually on sale from JP. Any upper and CH will work. Slap on your favorite handguard and you're in business in a week.

Build a new upper as either a 14.5" Pin/Weld or a 5.5" + Shroud. With a new upper you can start playing the game immediately. I've never had someone regret a JP barrel + internals because with a JP, you know it will run. In the meantime, file a NORMAL Form 1 online to SBR your lower. Not the BS entrapment the ATF is trying to push, but a new build. When you get your stamp you now run the range toy when you want or run it at a USPSA match, sans can because USPSA hates fun. You'll probably end up with 2 lowers to make 2 full builds in the end but who ever complained about building another gun?

Syntech is negligible as far as buildup in the comp. Sport Pistol is also a gift for minor shooters using compensators.

Again, unless you're running Duty or very spicy NATO spec ammo, the 60 degree lock piece is overkill. The lock pieces are not meant to get you to the ragged edge of reliability. The JP-5 is already so much softer than any other PCC that there's no need. Rather, they are meant to be a quick way to tune the gun. A good rule of thumb is the brass should eject 3-5 feet from the shooter. If it dribbles out and lands in your pocket, go up a lock piece. Similar to how a 223 gas system is tuned, one does not close the gas block so the rifle barely cycles only pulling a round out of the mag but not locking the bolt on an empty follower. Rather, the gas block is opened and tuned to lock back and complete a full stroke with additional adjustment of the gas block for the intended level of dirty and use. Another way of looking at this would be Steel Challenge guys running 95 grain bullets at the minimum velocity to cycle. They sure are fun until anything at all goes wrong. Then there's not enough energy to overcome the dirt, debris, marginal brass or whatever. Give yourself a wider operating window than the minimum.

What you read is correct. I would ignore anything regarding 147's and a 60 degree lock piece unless it's Duty Ammo or similar spice.

I'd agree, it will cannibalize about that much from CO and other divisions without increasing membership numbers at all. There's a lot left on the table with the 50% turnover currently and I don't see how LO is even a drop in that bucket of retention.

It works fine as long as your first round is major PF to overcome the spring pressure. Also, don't drop that mag on the ground after you filed the base pad so thin. Definitely clean both the mag and rounds so they feed that magical last 24th time with so little spring pressure at the end of the stage. Back on topic, Open is more reliable now from what I've seen in a short amount of time. Guys still push the operational window but to some extent that's the nature of Open. Having shot a few historical pieces that were quite well made it seems like there are more options for similar or better quality as knowledge grew and spread over the years. If you want something that's easy to keep running and will be a pleasure to shoot get a 38 SC with minimal holes in the barrel and run 124's with 3n38. Can't remember who made that suggestion. Some old timer that had seen a thing or two.

Can't say fore sure on the P320 and 124's. I haven't had a sig. Probably around 3.6-3.8 of N320 but you might have to mess with it.

Get some red Dykem and mix that in with your lube on brass before you size. Open guys have been doing it forever and it works really, really well. I bought mixed brass for a few years when it was cheap. I gave pops all the 45, kept the 9 and 40 knowing eventually I'd run a 40 in limited. Ended up with a massive supply of 40. Even nowadays a bunch of guys just get factory 40 and leave the used brass on the ground at matches.

Limited Major (40) is as close to 3 gun (irons) fun levels of pistol shooting as I've experienced in USPSA. It's insanely enjoyable. A fudgecicle nobody but a few crayon chewers and winder likkers want for locals is also spectacular practice for 3 gun (irons). Is it cool? Absolutely. Is it popular? Not like it once was. Could it grow in popularity again? I think so. With Irons being separated out Nationally, CO being early in the year and Open being paired with PCC I think a lot of guys that used to run Limited will come back to it at the high end. With more major players making power factor ammo it's easy to switch to limited for fun for a while without the investment in a caliber for reloading. 40 is relatively easy to load as long as you know you have access to a roll or push through size.

Regarding running light loads on the ragged edge of a lock piece performance (e.g. light 124's in 70 degree lock): Any time you try to get to the edge you're reducing the operating window. I ran an 80 degree lock piece with 20+ types of ammo totaling multiple tens of thousands of rounds over multiple years. There IS a reason JP ships the JP-5's with the 80 degree lock piece. The 70, 60 and other angle lock pieces are optional for various goals. The 60 degree is a more duty ammo specific item. The 70 degree is more for factory loads, but can be used for ragged edge performance for USPSA power factor loads in some cases. Don't expect any lock piece to defy physics. If anyone needs help building out anything but wants specific advice, shoot me a PM.

The JP triggers are designed to work with the ejector on the JP-5. That's the major consideration on physical space limitations in the -5. IMO there's no point in really dealing with anything else. The JP trigger works extremely well and it's already installed when you order one.

Yeah. Ask me about coated with Titegroup haha. Soaking to clean just got too involved. I switched to Sport Pistol for PCC and that made a world of difference. Running either jacketed or sealed base loads also keeps cleaning down.

Coated also become a PITA with comps. 124's will be solid. If you find yourself wanting to tune dot movement a 70 degree lock piece might worth a test.

Hopefully with at least some sanity and realistic discussions returning, and the lack of biased input, LO is now further and further from being ramrodded through. Both T-Rod and I are shooting Limited until at least July. You and T-Rod should have comparable times outside of stage 6 where you shot like a potato instead of an 8 shot revolver at falling steel (read, I've seen you crush stages like that). Looking at the results and remembering some of your runs, could you stay after the March match to practice? Once the time changes in March we will be doing more weekday practices for Limited if you were up to join us there.

I think both myself and Mr. @kurtm would agree that the time spent discussing, tinkering and otherwise not focusing on dedicated practice provides orders of magnitude less return and improvement in skills than actually doing the work to build those skills. From my perspective, you're welcome to do whatever. I know what made me a better competitor.

@DukeNiemand I'm sure you've got something on youtube or wherever as your "controlled study." It's neither statistically significant, nor sufficient to encompass the wide array of variables in play. At matches the consensus most effective has been and continues to be the Recoil Eliminator.

JP Recoil Eliminator is still the most effective. 2/3 of Open seems to be that brake. For 1"x3" rule divisions I like the 3 JP 3 port. Very effective without the borderline brain damaging concussion on some brakes nowadays.

@Makicjf had some great advice for me when he let me borrow his. Easiest pistol caliber I've ever loaded to be honest, once I knew the trick for bullet diameter selection