pskys2

It depends.? It seems to me that most of "Snapping to the next target, and then moving the gun there" is actually Mental. It seems more about "Mentally" processing the shot, accepting or rectifying that shot and forgetting about it. THEN Moving to the next target, keeping your concentration on the the present target. Depending on the Target exposure, distance and/or props you may be able to use recoil to drive the gun, or not. The important thing is to "Drive the Mind to the Next Shot". If you think about it as you're doing it, you're probably losing time. At the top levels I would surmise the color of ones' shoelaces can be important, if it affects the competitors mental state. At the top level it is so tight (other than Revolver and Production where us mortals haven't figured out that gods do roam the earth!) that anything can help/hurt. But, for most of us it's more about being able to let ourselves perform. Pushing too hard only hurts. More importantly "HAVE FUN!" Dave

I've found that 1 or 2x fired brass to be more consistent in both accuracy and PF. Think it has to do with being "fire formed" to your chamber versus new brass which usually will have more to expand. The average "usually" comes out close to a few times fired, but sometimes not. Many times fired brass usually gives me lower PF and unless sorted, wider veloctiy variations. But an occasional load will give higher PF with old brass. Proably due to an undetected variable in loading. Powder lots, and age, can also impact velocity enough to change PF 5 or 6 points, depending on needed velocity. Of course Temperature, Humidity, Barometric Pressure, Sunlight/Cloud Cover will all make a difference. The only safe thing is to take many chrono readings at different times. Dave

Here goes (if you want more details send me an email address): 150 LSWC Behn (Fired in a 6" Accu Comp .45acp in the 1980's) 1230 Trap 100 7.50 WLP Mixed 1.250 0.468 Taper 1170 Trap 100 6.90 WLP Mixed 1.250 0.468 Taper 1180 231 7.40 WLP Mixed 1.250 0.468 Taper 152 LSWC National (Fired in a 5" Match Barrel .45acp over last 5 years) 989 WST 5.54 WLP Starline 1.250 0.470 Taper 1047 WST 6.00 WLP Starline 1.250 0.470 Taper 1112 WST 6.54 WLP Starline 1.250 0.470 Taper 1018 AA5 9.40 WLP Starline 1.250 0.470 Taper 1046 AA5 9.90 WLP Starline 1.250 0.470 Taper 1082 Bullseye 6.54 WLP Starline 1.250 0.470 Taper 1090 Bullseye 6.54 WLP Mixed 1.250 0.470 Taper 1134 WST 6.54 WLP Mixed 1.250 0.470 Taper 1120 WST 6.54 WLP Remington 1.250 0.470 Taper 816 WST 4.85 WLP Mixed 1.250 0.470 Taper 891 Clays 4.20 F150 Mixed 1.250 0.478 Taper 842 Clays 4.20 WLP Mixed 1.250 0.468 Taper 774 Clays 3.90 WLP Mixed 1.250 0.468 Taper 739 Clays 3.90 F150 Mixed 1.250 0.468 Taper 152 LSWC National (Fired in a 5 1/4" 625 .45acp this year) 809 Clays 4.00 F150 Remington 1.225 0.469 Taper 736 Titegroup 4.30 F150 Remington 1.225 0.469 Taper Accuracy is hit and miss, but never as good as a 200 LSWC. Probably average 3" @25yds, whereas the 200 LSWC averaged 1 1/2" @25yds. Out at 50 yards the spread usually seems to widen at a faster rate. Hope this helps, Dave

So, Mike all I need to do is "Airgun and rehearse" a little more to get under your skin and get you out of your game? Another trick to learn. I like to get going pretty quick after the LAMR, the longer I wait the more confused I get! HA! Seriously on the more complicated stages, it sometimes helps to find a spot to see the "WHOLE" course (though sometimes it's impossible). The other trick I use is when it gets too complicated, too short of time to figure it out, then K.I.S.S. Simplify and try to concentrate on shooting, not gaming. Easier to do with an Open/Limited gun though. It's real tough on us Round Gun guys. But, then I'm not trying to win, or keep, a sponsor. Make a living off of this, nor impress a girl friend. I've seen all of that screw with a perfectly good competitor/person. The best are the "TRUE" Surprise Courses. Went through one in a semi-lit indoor range where they set up several targets with T-shirts on (before IDPA). Only 2 or 3 guys, out of 40+ engaged the "WHOLE" Target. Most like me took head shots, even though told there was no hardcover or Hostages. Just saw clear cardboard and went for it. Pretty interesting. LOVE IT! Make this stage my B***h, but then if you're not careful you may be the B***h! Dave

I knew Mike would be good for something. Now we find he's "Round Gun Yoda" in disguise! Training the new Luke RoundSHooter! Watch out Obe Wan Miculek. May the Force Revolve Around You. Young Sam seems so attentive and respectful, quite a pleasure to compete with. But, will the Dark Side lure him away to the bottom feeders before he has been able to raise the consciousness of the masses? Congrats to Sam (and Mike) on his newfound celebrity.

Actually the only thing I found a positive on the PC 625, is the Interchangable Front Sight. I can change the front sight and it makes me feel "Good", then I want to practice. Does it help my shooting, Not this year. And a lot is to be said for concentrating on one thing. The action, fit and finish on my PC625 (Just wanted one Pistol that I hadn't "Umm 'SMITHED"and that didn't happen anyway) were all pretty ordinary. The action work I had done by R Lee was impressive. I finally have the thng settled in and am happy with it. But, could have saved some $$$ by going with a stock 625. Could have used that $$ to practice, or buy a fancier holster (using a Safariland 002 - 4"), but hey it gave me something to do for the last year. What I wished I had done now, was keep looking for a Blued 25! But, then patience is not my virtue. Check with D. Carden, he has one that fell apart. Maybe he'll donate it to you? Dave

Sounds like a plan. With my old eyes getting fuzzy, I filed one of the FO fronts down to .110" and it seems quite a bit easier to see. Would like to find some already done at .100". Tried that size on a Limited gun and they felt great. The fuzziness of the front sight didn't matter. Dave

Hey Dan, had the same thing happen to my M29 and a M28. Impossible to fix correctly, the pistol will never shoot well again. If you wish to forward it, I'll pay freight, to me I will install it in the "Revolver Informational Plot of my S&W Historical Cemetery". I'm sure I can give it the proper and fitting services. Seriously, send it to Randy and have him rebuild it completely! You know new Ti Cylinder, fancy Barrel, programable smart chips, for bullets, interfaced with a stealth heads up display. Then we can listen to Carmoney on how none of it's needed... Just point, close eys and jerk trigger. Wait, maybe he already has those things, I thought I caught him squinting at the Area 3! Dave

They're the same. Dawson/Awsome Arms. Just wondered what they'd do to get your business. May be looking next year, too. Dave

If you ordered a Dillon 550, and have Dillon Dies, DON"T cut them down. If you're brass is "Hugely" oversized throw it out. You will see a VERY noticable ridge just forward of the extractor groove after sizing if the brass is that bad. Things to watch: Make sure you're not shaving lead when seating the bullets. You must adjust the Powder Die down enough to bell the case mouth so the bullet will sit in it and not shave off lead from the side when seating the bullet. Make sure your Sizing Die rests on the Shell Plate. I use the following procedure, without using any cases run the handle all of the way down as if sizing a case. Then screw the Sizing Die down until it rests solidly on the Shell Plate. Make sure your Crimping Die is set and that all dies are Locked Down. From what you're saying I wonder if you're not "Short Stroking". Make sure you get solid pressure at the end of each stroke, for each case. Sometimes, especially when cranking out 5 or 600 rounds in an hour, it's easy to anticipate the bottom stroke and not actually complete it. That can lead to long rounds and cases that aren't sized well. If your gun isn't springed for light loads, that could be your problem. When using a 200 grain bullet and a 16# spring, or less, you should have no problems as long as the loads are over 830 f/s. WST will take 4.6 grains, or more, to make this. Since you had fired some previously reloaded ammo, I doubt that your problem is gun related. But to be safe, check the following: Take your Barrel out of the Pistol, clean the bore and chamber. Take a loaded round, that has no lead shaved at the case mouth, and drop it into the chamber. It should drop in easily, kind of with a "Thunk", and come to rest with the rim even or slightly under the the hood of the barrel. If the rim is above the Hood of the Barrel, lightly push on the cartridge. If it then seats flush with the hood, you may have a problem with lead in the barrel/chamber or a chamber that's not finished (unlikely from EGW). Try a factory round, make sure the chamber is clean, if it fits flush, or just below, you don't have a chamber problem. Dave

Hey Randy Lee how goes entry into the Guild? Saw a mention in the last Handgunner. As to the original question. A hearty "!HERE! HERE!" (Hear loud banging on the table) to what Mike and Hop said. Randy's work is sweet. But, you need to work out the kinks first. Sides if you butcher the work on your own Randy can install his really fancy Hammer and ?Trigger? That is if you need any excuses for perfection. It helps to know how things work, just in case. Just keep it simple and do only 1 thing at a time. Clark will do a good 7# Trigger, but Randy can get you down under 6, 5, 4 whatever you want. Randy's turn around "WAS" great compared to any other Smith I've dealt with in the last 25 years. Randy, one of the first things you need to do to be more effecient is to quit encouraging us to fiddle with our own guns. I'm sure it is more effecient for you, but less fun for us, to have someone send you a clean pistol, rather one that's been "Umm, Modified?". Seriously, I sent a M29 back to Smith & Wesson twice to have the Firing Pin Bushing replaced. They actually sent it back to me "COCKED!" with over .020" exposed and on the rotating side. I couldn't believe it. So I hesitate to recommend them. Clark did a good job, but took them much longer than they had estimated (like 3 months longer which still isn't bad compared to some others). But, they only did what they were told and didn't look at anything else. Randy will check yours out and he came in under his time estimate, plus he kind of looks the thing over. He is to be highly recommended. Welcome to the "Order of Circular Logic" we only seem to be running in circles. Dave

CONGRATULATIONS! Or not? Is it better to have a spouse that shares your interests, but uses ?HALF? your reloads? Or one that doesn't care? Seriously, you are lucky to have a wife who not only wants to shoot, but wants to "BUY" a pistol. Awsome Arms, claims they won't be undersold on STI Pistols, let us know what kind of "DEAL" they will give you to get your business. Dave

Berry's list a 180 RN, but no pix. I've tried both Precision and MasterBlaster Moly Bullets in .40 (1911) and in 44 and 45 with Revolvers. In an auto they're great, in a Revolver (PC625 & 29) they leave a hard to clean coating I don't like. Use National 240 Lead RN for my M29 .44 in Russian cases, they lead but it's never been a problem(I feel your pain at not finding RN bullets in .40 as it's the same with .44, has to do with Lever Action Rifles and Cowboy Shooting I think). I Taylor Throated both Revolvers, it helped the 625 but didn't make as big a difference on the 29. Use the Laser .40 185 LRN SWC in a 1911, it's a very accurate bullet. Definitely try some in your 610. The shoulder isn't really one, but it is enough to cut a little better hole in targets. I shot IPSC with the above .44 with lead for about 2 years pretty heavy and it never caused problems. Ran a big bore brush through the cylinders after every session. Actually had more problems with Titegroup in the 625. Left a hard coating that would drag on the case rims and ratchet. Real tough to clean off too. Clays doesn't have that problem. It was so bad that I thought I had a bunch of bent clips. Titegroup doesn't seem to "Stick" to the Blued M29 though. Best idea is to get a Lewis (Hoppes) Lead Remover, you'll need it for the forcing cone. Then just clean, clean, clean. Dave

Way Cool! Gotta Luv the ZEN! It's like a premonition of the "RUSH". Hey any word on the IA SS Classic? Kind of the last minute thinking of going, sent an email to the listed sight but nothing back yet. Do you know if they take walk ons? Dave

Kind of what I thought. So, if I get this straight on fitting an Extractor. 1) Fit the Star ends so all 6 (or as many as possoble) kiss the cylinder cuts when the flat of the shank is bottomed ccw onto the cylinder bore. 2) Fit the Ratchets to set the final timing lock up of each individual chamber. What happens when a star breaks, does it usually snap off or just crack. Heck, I have a 1911 with BOTH sides of the Dust Cover cracked about 1/2" or more, and the darn thing keeps plugging away. Dave

Anyone interested in one of Masterblasters Ammo cans full of their 200 .45 RN? Used only 200 out of the can (had 2000+ in it). I can't get comfortable with them. Dave

Gee, Patrick do you have gold plated or diamond tipped "FANGS"?

YMW CONGRATULATIONS! It gets confusing just when you think you know someone (forcefeeding brewskis to you, so low), they do something GOOD! Now if we can just get more local activity and start pressing each other, maybe Jerry M. will have to start looking over his shoulder. He is a Senior Shooter Now!, Damn I will be next year, too.

Very deifintely the ratchets. Each had to be filed down slightly. Actually used a 1911 Slide File, has a safe area underneath it so I didn't hurt the ratchet boss/pin hole. Relieved the base (where hand rides over). 2 of the stars would hang up after ejection. They would always pop back in on closing, but thought they might bend. Actually shortened very little, did more beveling underneath. Had an old 94 Hand that I slipped in. If I made an error could always go up as the window will take one thats 98. The part was only $25, or so, from Brownells. It's not something to do if you're not used to working on small parts (and have a lot of patience). But I've built a few 1911's and the screw up factor with a new part seemed small. Remember the 25 and 625 (at least the newer ones) time on the Extractor differently. It is said to be a MAJOR Pain to do a 25. Probably the best would be to adjust the legs of the star, the flat on the extractor barrel will only allow so much turning. Then fit the ratchets to the thinnest hand that will work. Note I AM NOT A GUNSMITH. I've butchered more than a few items in my time. I just enjoy working on my toys, well actually it's that I just can't stop myself.

Info on Shoot for Life?

OH! LORD! and NOW the LEGEND starts to grow! Did you actually say it to Jerry, or just some of the guys on your squad? If you said it to Jerry, he probably would have been Rooting For YOU! I can still hear him at the 2004 Area 3, they had a Texas Star set up to spin really FAAAAST, and you could only shoot it thru a port on the bottom. Open guys were taking double digit times. Well I got 4 of 5 and the last whizzed by the port like a just weaned steer towards a corn field. I was standing there waiting, counting in my head 1001, 1002 then I hear a Louisiana Drawl behind me mutter "LEAVE IT, LEAVE IT!". Well who am I to argue with greatness. Ended up being 4th Ltd 10 on it, one of my best stages, even with a "Mike". Man, I have GOT to start hitting more of the matches you go to.

R112mercer, thanks. Back in the '80's I shot NMSS, civilian version of PPC, Bianchi Cup and for many years pre-IPSC clubs shot the Points-Time scoring system. Which put a grand premium on Points. Even shot a little with a M28, but mostly it was stock 1911 in .45 acp. My questions to Randy was meant to querie more on the lock up expectations, and longevity, in relation to the various disciplines. I notice a lot of guys who shoot IPSC with a Revolver talk of their pistols being out of time (not locking when slowly cocked, before hammer fall). I was curious as to Randy's experience with this. In my case when shooting at speed it isn't a problem. But, then you'll run into a course where you need a 20 yard Head Shot (may not be PC but that's what it WAS called). Or maybe a long 8" plate. Then you will have to slow down which is still not a problem, as long as the timing isn't too off, as long as you don't stop the squeeze. Note to RogerT, you inspired me to go home and actually work on installing a new extractor in my 625. It is quite a procedure, but came out good just needs a little light polishing to smooth it up a bit. It does now lock up great, but the new extractor had to have 2 of the legs beveled and the lengths adjusted a tweak so it wouldn't hang up on closing. Haven't shot it yet, probably will tomorrow night (tonites NCIS) since I have a range out back I can sneek out pretty easy. My questions still remain, and what of longevity? I've only played with a few Wheelguns, someone like Randy sees hundreds. Dave

Gee Mike does this mean you'll soon be shooting a .357 magdanimity? Forgot you're an ex Bowler, so it'd be a .44. Good show Mike, being that kind of stand up guy I'm sure will stand in the memory of those who really matter, your kids, especially Sam. Course it might make it hard for him to be cut throat in the Corporate World. But, I was always taught that selling out may help your wallet a little, but scar your soul forever. Let FNG Carmoney forever now be known as GG Carmoney. Dave

Yea, right Mike. The scoring error is more of a Stats error I'll bet. They need to change that class "A" to "M". I have noticed your Bowling Pin experience really pays off on Plate Racks and such. When you hand it to Jerry M. at a Nationals Event, it's pretty impressive. Good Luck at the Fall Classic.

RogerT, I've noticed the same thing on my year old PC 625. I agree with your thinking that if your Ratchet is worn enough at the star ends it can affect the timing. Of course the limit will be the barrel of the Ratchet itself. On my 625 I haven't messed with the chamfer at all. Yet the Ratchetis loosening up pretty badly. I also notice that when SLOOOWLY stroking the trigger about half of the cylinders actually won't lock up. When firing though it isn't giving any trouble. Course the faster I shoot the less problem. As long as I don't try to finese the final let off of the trigger it isn't causing an accuracy problem. But, I may try to fit a new Ratchet just for the fun of it. Another option is an oversized hand being fit and "Filing" the Hand Window in the frame. Which is pretty scary for an average guy to think of. But, the top flight Revo Smiths do it. I also would like to hear Randy's views. Guys, we need to keep him in business just for the free advice he keeps giving out! Another question for Randy, have you noticed a difference between the requirements/requests of IPSC, ICORE and BULLSEYE/BIANCHI/PPC shooters. IPSC shoots a wide variety of styles, but mostly fast with heavy loads. ICORE shoots light loads at ?Fast? speeds, or do you slow down to get good hits? BULLSEYE/PPC/BIANCHI would be light loads at very methodical (slow) speeds. I shoot only IPSC and I try to go Balls to the Walls, unless forced to slow down by demented course designers that think a 20 yard head shot is fun. Like I wouldn't willingly shoot innoccents!! wait I shouldn't say that, besides I'm one of the few that keep setting up 50 yard courses. It's kinda funny watching Open Guys sweat cause they don'[t know where they hit past 25 yards, or find out too late. Ha, Ha.