Sandbagger123
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Everything posted by Sandbagger123
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when i run a stage i look for the most efficeint way to score it. if its a left /right stage then its get scored when finished. if the shooter will finish downrange of start of the stage then most of the time we just score while shooting. I always tell the shooters that we will be be doing so and their right for proxy to watch the scoring. if you elect not to do so then its tough donuts. i also many times tell shooters that if they wish to verify their score before its is finalized to tell the score keeper that you want that. we have club where thye have stages that one runs close to 75 yards with targets from beggining to end. No way in heck am i going to follow the shooter to the end and come back and score. did that once with a ro that insisted in doing so and it took forever .
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the big advantage of 38 is the options on powders . also many say that they are less prone to breakage than 9mm major. 9mm major guns have been so refined these past years that there really is no disadvantage over 38 when it comes to reliabilty. i have put over 20k through my old one and have has less than 50 stoppages of any kind. my old gun can shoot 1 1/2 inch off a bench at 50 yards easily so accuracy with the 9mm is fine i would never buy a 38 just because of the price of brass. 9mm brass is going for 1,5 to 2 cents a peice these days in bulk. i picked it up in the past and have buckets of it ,but when it runs out i might just buy it . you see many of the top dogs in open running 38 . i think it might be that they get ammo or components for free so they don't worry about cost. go 9 and don't look back
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put everything in except for the recoil spring. draw back the slide till it stops. take a marker and mark the slide and frame where it stops. repeat with the recoil spring in and see if the marks still line up. if they are short that means the recoil spring is at full compression before the recoil spring tunnel hit the frame. Also check to see if the spring plug is flush with the slide when installed
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i just used glock recoil springs in my k100 .
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most common cause is recoil spring is too long.
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how to figure out what # recoil spring works best
Sandbagger123 replied to Sandbagger123's topic in Open Pistols
10 feet or so. dot tracks slightly to the right -
how to figure out what # recoil spring works best
Sandbagger123 replied to Sandbagger123's topic in Open Pistols
dot is on target. 8 is pretty low already for major . its could be mashing -
When i used to shoot limited i just did the quick double into a target to determine which weight spring to use. worked well. now with my open gun it seems a little more thought is needed . i tend to hit a lot of A/C usually A first and C low left. i am using a 8 # variable now. So is there a test to determine what weight works best?
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Need advice - troubleshooting 40 loads with coated bullets
Sandbagger123 replied to JayDee's topic in 10mm/40 Caliber
i have loaded a ton of 40 with lead/coated/plated/FMJ through regular Lee dies. i don't even adjust the setting when going between bullet types. here is what i do lube cases set bell at .422 seating die only seats the bullet and closes the bell slightly FCD does the final crimp crimp set at .419/420 been shot through MP/2011/ Glocks with never an issue. i have always found it odd people having trouble with the 40SW. i find it a very forgiving to load. -
ok i must have misunderstood as i thought it meant that they got a mulligan for free on the first try.
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i like the 90 degree mount with my cmore, especially the lower offset. am thinking of trying the delta point . Are the mini style sights as low a 90 degree mount?
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Repairing Targets Before Shooter Sees Them
Sandbagger123 replied to GBertolet's topic in USPSA/IPSC Rules
this, although in the many times i have done this i don't recall anyone every using a proxy -
hmmm this is something new to me. So are you saying if a shooter has a gun or other issue while shooting the classifier they get a mulligan and can do it again?
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where did you find them?
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Should I Collect My Brass
Sandbagger123 replied to anonymouscuban's topic in Miscellaneous BEginners
going rate for 9mm brass these days seems to be 1.5 to 2.5 cents a piece when bought in 3k or more batches. is it worth saving to sell at this price its up to you to decide. i would just save it and reload it . -
no idea. primers in my 173 pf loads look just like my 130pf minor loads. just load them up with a good reciepe and shoot them
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i have loaded and shot over 15k 9 mm major in the year and half i have been shooting it. i use pickup brass all the time. unless you shot the brass yourself or see the guy take it out of the box and shoot it. how do you know its once fired?
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Brass is brass to me. i have some 9 major brass i must have loaded 10 times. i don't really find 9 major really does anything to the brass if its shot from a tight chamber
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i put a sdie mount in place of the original serendipity. i am only using 3 screws. i loctited the screw using red loctite, came back from zeroing it and the mount was loose. so would adding the 2 other screws solve the loosening issue? or it does not matter and the issue is some where else?
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seeing that 6-32 is a lot more common, would there be any issue in using it instead of 6-40?
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5-40 by 1/2" is long enough. Cut to correct size. you can get them at some home depots and specialty fastener places . or ebay and amazon
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So they do uspsa every week? i am thinking of coming down and staying a few months after the summer is over
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Tell Pro Gun Club their web site sucks.
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how do you seperate the rounds and media? i dump mine into my dillion media separator just like i would empty brass and turn a few times and its all good. Also put a few dryer sheets into it help with the static cling that might be holding the media in the HP