Cuz

I got mine in late 2020 and it does not have the new shell plate. I was also looking hard at the one from FW Arms. The groove on the underside for the ball intrigued me.

Can some of you smart folks out there tell me why I might want to replace the Dillon shell plate that came with my RL1100 with one of the other brands out there? It’s the #5 shell plate for 9mm. While we’re on the subject, who are some of the other shell plate manufacturers I might want to consider? I know that FW Arms and TNT make them, but who else, and why is it better? Thanks.

Boy, I would like to see Tapatalk working again, or at least a change that has the mobile version of the forum working like the desktop version.

Yeah, I have to start looking at it that way. It’s definitely true.

I totally agree with what your saying, but my biggest problem is how it affects me when I have to DQ someone. It totally wrecks my mindset and I can never seem to regain my own composure for the rest of the match. I wish I could just DQ them and move on, but I can’t. it’s definitely something I need to work on.

For me I would say it’s relaxation and stress relief therapy. At least the practice and random range sessions. Matches are a hot mess of nerves and anxiety that requires more stress relief therapy to get over. It’s a vicious cycle.

Thanks, I ended up going with a Carver rod and adapter. I’ve had good luck with his stuff. I also sent the slide out to get milled for MOS plates so I could put an optic on it. That didn’t go as well as I’d hoped.

Yes, thanks, the last 3 replies confirm what I’ve always believed. Basically, the U die is best only used with jacketed bullets. And, sorry for the thread hijack, but I thought it had some pertinence to the topic.

The Lee factory crimp die is only not recommended for coated bullets, right? I’ve used it for years with copper plated, and now jacketed bullets with great results. I have read in multiple places that you shouldn’t use it with coated bullets. Also, regarding crimp, is it true that over crimping is only an issue if it breaks through the coating or plating which could cause the bullet to separate? Are there any known drawbacks to a slightly tighter crimp with jacketed bullets like Precision Delta or Montana Gold? I thought they both had pretty hard jackets.

So once you get the press all taken apart and you have the base of the press left to clean, what do you use to clean the funk out? I’ve been spraying it with M-Pro 7 Gun cleaner, but I figure there must be something that may work better. Anyway, just wondering what you all are using. Thanks, Cuz

That’s pretty much what I was thinking. When you get a new custom gun, you dry fire it a bunch to see if it appears to function, then run a bore snake through it to make sure there’s no excess anything in the barrel then head to the range to make sure it’s working ok. I would do this BEFORE I took anything apart and started mucking with it. Especially since you said you had no 2011 experience.

I ordered and received their popper decapper and swage hold down dies last month.

Whoa, way to go Llando88. You got a topic pinned. I been around here almost 20 years and never achieved that. Nice job, and thanks, the cards are great.

Psst, so… er… how much you want for your small pistol primers???

You guys are both right. I actually made the discovery myself a few minutes ago. I noticed it was missing. I have a Dillon sizing/decapping die in station 7 of my processing tool head and that's where it came from. When I pulled the die and took it apart to inspect, I also noticed that the end cap that holds the decapping pin secure had stripped the center part it attaches to (see attached pic). I just submitted a warranty replacement request to Dillon. Thank you all for the quick responses, I was searching everywhere on my press, and in the manual for about 30 minutes before posting here. Very much appreciated.

Ok, so I was processing brass, at a rapid, but manual rate, and a case spit out of the case feeder sideways along with the part in the picture. No, not the dime, the other part. I can’t find it in the manual, can anyone help identify where it could have come from??? thanks.

I’m not a fan of the C&H plate, the screws are too thin and weak. I’ve never heard of the springer, but I just checked it out, and it’s an RMR plate that won’t work with Holosun optics?? I would wonder what else it won’t work with. I’m a Glock guy, and I have 2 with the Glock MOS plates, and 2 with C&H plates. I prefer the stock Glock MOS plate. But, I also have a Brownells slide that was milled specifically for RMR and that’s the best of them all. The multi-optic plate system is good marketing for the gun Mfg but it’s no where near as good as having a slide milled for the optic you want. I doubt I’ll ever buy another plate system again. From now one I’ll buy the non mos version and get the slide milled.

Has anyone had to wait more than 2 weeks by simply going to all 6 or so retailers listed on the Trijicon website and signing up to be notified when the one you want is back in stock? I will admit you have to act fast when notified, but they do appear to be getting small batches on a regular basis.

I read the very short manual, and have some questions regarding the Armanov Round Counter. 1) How is the rounds/hour “pace” calculated, and how often is it updated during a session? I want to use it to help me maintain a consistent pace when I’m loading. Does it calculate based on the time between two consecutive rounds? Or is it recalculated every 10-15 seconds? Or over the last 10-15 rounds loaded? What happens to the currently displayed pace if I stop loading for a minute? Does it drop down to zero? Or remain where it is until I resume loading? 2) In the different counters, what is the difference between “processing” and “depriming”? Thanks, I also sent an email to the Armanov website, but figured I’d try here too.

Lol, it’s too funny how differently people think. The rounds/hour display would be the most valuable thing to me when I’m loading ammo. I’ve recently resolved a powder spillage problem by learning that I was cranking the handle way too fast. Using the rounds per hour counter would be great to force me to stick to a pace that keeps powder from spilling all over the shell plate. Currently, every so often I have to set a 15 or 30 second timer on my phone and count handle cranks during that time to check my pace. I have a tendency to keep ramping up the speed. The displayed loading rate would help keep me at the desired pace.

/sarc mode on/ Ok, two things: First, you can’t really blame the light strike on your open gun. Generally speaking, it was more likely an ammo issue where the primer wasn’t fully seated. How dare you blame your new open gun for something that was clearly not it’s fault. Who loaded that ammo? Second, if you really trusted your gun 100% you wouldn’t have to clean it before every match. Personally, I trust my Glock 100% and only clean it every other year or so. But, for many people, cleaning their gun is something they really enjoy doing, and it relaxes them and brings them inner peace. I am definitely NOT one of those people. I agree, there’s nothing like having confidence in your gear going into a match. My problem isn’t my gear, it’s me I lack confidence in.

After all, isn’t the Mark7 auto drive the ultimate case counter for the RL1100?

You are right. When I’m loading ammo, I use the empty primer tubes as a count, since I pretty much always finish a tube once I start it. I was actually more interested in counting the cases when I process brass, more to keep track of what I had, and how many rounds have gone through the machine, for tracking the big maintenance items. And most importantly, it’s a cool gizmo that I hope will distract me long enough to keep me from buying an auto drive now that they are starting to become available. This “gadget” is a whole lot cheaper.

I don’t think there is much to “read up on”. I downloaded the manual to get an idea how it worked, but it didn’t have a whole lot of info.

Thanks, those pics were very helpful.