AdamM

It's just a slight radius on the corner and then polish. If you cycle very slowly by hand and it feels like it is sticking when it is trying to rotate where it locks the bolt face into place. I believe that it gets stuck there and when it does finally make it over-the-hump, that is why it bounce back afterwards. Try using some grease, like wheel-bearing grease, on the ramp and pin, and see if your issue goes away for a few hundred rounds. Easy to test before doing any grinding.

I had the same bounce back issue on my m3k. I found the issue to be how sharp the radius on the carrier to the pin was. I also did the slow-mo to see the bounce back. I used a dremmel to smooth it out and now works perfectly. If you work the bolt very slowly by hand, you could feel it hang up a bit at that point. Now it feels smooth when hand cycling very slowly. On thing that worked temporarily was to use a heavy grease on the carrier and pin. If that fixes the issue for several hundred rounds, you have the same issue. I still use grease instead of oil.

Leading like that is almost always caused by a bullet that is undersized compared to the barrel. The first thing you need to do is slug the barrel and measure the bullet. Until you do that, anything else is pointless. For every 9mm CZ barrel that I've slugged, they are all oversized and require a wider bullet. When I switched to 0.357 bullets, all my leading problems went away.

I run my open gun with full USPSA loads for our steel match at Old Bridge. Best way to learn the gun. Just remind the RO so they are prepared before you shoot. [emoji12] I much prefer 115gn bullets in open.

I'm not sure what minimum load is for N320, but I load 2.7gn under a 145gn IbeJiHeads bullet in my PCC. It makes 132 PF with no issues.

https://www.mcmaster.com/cotter-pins Sorry, don't remember exact size at the moment, but is where I got them.

So far the PP has been working really well for me. I use Winchester primers, which it seems are the worst to try to load in filler systems (Vibraprime, DAA Primer Pro, etc.). I did need to swap in the V2 disk (no shims), and have had zero flipped primers. I lubed everything with dry silicone spray before I even started, about 1500 primers in, and so far no issues. To expand on Saul's idea of treating the primers with silicone spray, I believe I have an alternate way of doing this that will alleviate the concerns about contaminated primers mentioned above. The Winchester primers are all neatly placed in the tray with the striking area up, which is probably what needs the lube. What I tried and seems to work very well is to spray a cleaning patch with silicone and gently wipe the primers in the primer tray. That way only the surface gets lubed. Let them dry for a short time and then dump them in the PP. On rare occasions there may be one or two primers that are flipped in the tray, if you don't open it carefully, but they are easy to flip back with your fingernail before you wipe them. This will eliminate any possibility of the silicone getting on the compound side of the primers. I loaded up 200 this way and it filled the tube under 90 seconds.

I filled down the end of the ejector wire that goes into the ram. Make it so it can sits as close to the shell plate as possible. I feel if it sits too high above the shell plate, the angle is harder to overcome and sticks sometimes. It doesn't completely fix it, but is much better.

I'm using the whole JP assembly. I bought the stripped PSA lower w/ LRBO when I got it.

If you are talking about the one with the straight round cylinder that rotates, then yes. That is exactly what I have on my PSA 9mm and it's great. That way my trigger is the same on my JP-15 and PCC.

There is an easier solution. Take some electrical tape and seal the blue cap to the bottle. It won't evaporate then.

Ken is right. Bigger diameter can be better. I run .357's in my CZ's. It will lead up more if the bullet is not tight going down the barrel. Think of it this way. If the bullet is barely touching the rifling, it is not spinning and is shearing instead, which causes the leading.

I checked the trash can. The brass plated steel is made by S&B and not Jag, so guess that's not it.

I'm wondering if that mighty be steel cased ammo that it's brass plated? The name sound somewhat familiar as to what I might be throwing out recently. Take a magnet and see if it sticks?

Ontelaunee puts on some great matches. Check on Practiscore for dates. Think there might even be a range in Easton, but I haven't been there (or the other PA ranges). Definitely a few around that area. Don't bother looking into New Jermany matches. Too strict here and not worth the risk if you don't know NJ's obscure laws.