FWSixgunner

I agree. Get a 24 oz ball peen hammer, find a big Boulder or stump and wail away. Or a tractor with 3-point hitch and a nice, heavy tandem disk. Then twist that center level adjustment bar (essentially a giant turn buckle) all the way in and out a few times by hand. Talk about something that will work those wrists! I don't have a scintilla the expertise of Vogel, but I do know something about physics and anatomy and totally disagree with his comments about a Weaver-style grip/stance. Force applied perpendicular to the muzzle (Weaver) directly opposes recoil. Lock a 2x2 board in a vice and try moving it perpendicular the jaws, then parallel. The first wont budge (that's weaver). The other would be pressing hands together and allows the board to move. Anatomy-wise, hands clasped together with arms extended is a long cantilever with little muscle and almost no skeletal support. Weaver-ish puts the bones of the arm much more in-line with the direction of the force and working more like a piston, also getting those big pecs, deltoids and triceps into the game. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Any specific suggestions on that? I'm pretty much settled on .45 ACP. It's come down to the Springfield XDS Competition or the Glock G41. Was just about sold on the Glock till I realized its .15" too long for the stupid IDPA box, and I really was hoping to find one for both. I may go with it anyway and pick up a 21 slide & barrel later, though the XDM package is tempting. Also want to go SF as I've been shooting DA revo for so long not sure I can deal with a safety. Plus I now have trouble sneaking up on a trigger that breaks all at one:-) Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

2 years ago my FIL wanted to go out to a waterside catfish restaurant for Father's Day. Nearest we could find was a restaurant/marina on Lake Granbury. The dock was closed as the water was a good 30 yards away with a 15' drop onto rocks from dockside. Now I'd wager the whole place is underwater.

Yep IDPA really irritates me with that rule. A 627 is no larger than a 625. They seem to want to handicap revo shooters even more. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

It's three weeks since this post and I hope you haven't been swept into the Gulf. Granbury is just down the road from me & I'm starting to take bets on when the whole town will disappear into the Brazos. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

+1. My shooting buddy uses a Glock in 40. He is much younger than me, has better eye sight and is more accurate. And still i beat him almost every time with my CZ TS. The reason? My TS soaks up recoil and the muzzle doesn't rise anywhere near as much as his, so my splits are faster. 0.3 sec faster each split on a 10 target stage equals 3 seconds overall. That is hard to beat. For $1400 you can buy a new CZ Tactical Sport with four mags/extensions that hold 20/21 rounds, a FO front sight and a few other extras and be ready to roll right out of the box. Plus you'll get a superb single action, 2 lb. trigger. You'll spend $300 at least on getting the Glock or M&P mags equipped with extended base plates and guts, $200 getting the trigger to work, and a couple hundred more adding weight to the light plastic gun. The TS comes ready to run right out of the box. I'm not an expert on plastic guns. I like single action. That being said, of the modified, competition ready Glocks, M&Ps and XDs that I've shot, the M&P has the best trigger. It is simply astounding (to me) how good someone who knows what they are doing can make that trigger. All that Apex stuff that people shove in can't touch a good gunsmith trigger. If you are considering moving to Open after Limited, the TS is not your best choice. You have very, very limited options. A Tanfo would be a slightly better choice, but not ideal. With the M&P, or the others, you can essentially do it yourself with off the shelf parts. Geez, when I was considering it, Carver Custom quoted $1999 for a full race M&P Open with red dot. So, you're saying an "entry level" USPSA gun should run $1200? I'm reading with interest as well as I would like to shoot USPSA. Been shooting IDPA revolver for a while. The rules, especially around revolver equipment, are really starting to annoy me. So, was looking at USPSA revolver since I'm a revo guy, but everyone says 8-round is the only way to go. I priced out an S&W PC 8-rounder + trigger, job, after-market parts, belt, everything, I'm probably looking at $2,000. Way too much for me for a gun that would be basically dedicated to a discipline I could only shoot about once per month, maybe 18 per year (not that many matches around here.) As a low budget alternative plus a gun I could also shoot in IDPA, I've been looking with interest at the LEO trade-in M&P 40s. However, what I've read indicates the M&Ps have accuracy issues and no aftermarket parts in .40. How bout the Walther PPQ 5" in .40? The reviews I've read of the PPQ have been stellar.

Bingo! Sounds like you're more concerned with ongoing costs than initial. Well, reload. It won't save you money cause you'll just shoot more. The only hobby I've ever done that was not real expensive was running. My chief complaint about USPSA (which I don't currently shoot but am looking to) is startup cost if you want to be competitive. BTW I've shot other disciplines: IDPA, silhouette, service rifle. Gas & match fees are no more or less expensive than those (in fact, IHMSA is quite a bit more since the nearest match is 3 hours away.) I burn a lot less ammo in the last two but since it's pretty specialized, I doubt if cost is any less.

Whatever it says on your state-issued ID. In that context, sex & gender are one in the same.

Your avatar doesn't seem to share your fashion sense And who doesn't want to buy more gear? That's more a reflection of my shooting. Lee Marvin as Kid Shelleen, the gunfighter who missed the barn. Uh, folks with limited time and funds. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

You mean there's other types of handguns? Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

It's also not uncommon for Rugers to have some thread choke just in front of the frame, where the barrel go squeezed when screwing into the frame. If buying new, I'd go with the flat top but my preference is Old Models (pre-transfer bar) AKA "Three Screws". BTW has Ruger returned to the SR3 grip frame? If so, I might seriously consider a .45 convertible. CASS looks fun but a: I'd need at least three more guns and b: I couldn't bring myself to dress in the cowboy garb. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Was that Wichita Falls? I'm in FW and shoot locally, but Cowtown isn't very revolver friendly. One of these days I'll make the trip to Houston for ICORE and IHMSA. They need some grizzly threats for that cannon. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Steer them away from the snub noses. No reason to do that if it isn't for carry. Not necessarily. In the close confines of your home, your assailant is likely to be very close. More barrel = more for him to grab & more leverage to lever it out of your hand. A 2" revolver is near impossible to do that with, even when the bearer is a petite woman. I'd go with a 2" K-frame S&W, .38 special, for the extra round. Make sure to get a modern one rated for +P. For budget, there's tons of LEO trade-in S&W model 10s & 64s floating around for under $400.

I'm with toothguy: a LEO trade in K-frame .38. There's tons of experienced Model 64s out there that can be had for little investment. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

A big LGS advertises FS replacement, $65 to cut the dovetail + cost of replacement sight. I took in my 64-5 today. The FS is integral, so it would need to be milled for a new FO FS. The smith looked like he was going to have a fit of apoplexy. He carried on saying he would have to almost completely reshape and refinish the barrel, and fitting an FS of the correct height would be trial and error. The reshaping, according to him, would be milling away the rib. So I asked three times but never got a straight answer: why in the hell can't he just mill away the existing ramp FS and cut a DT there? Am I missing something? It doesn't look that difficult. If he can't get an FS to the correct height without trying a bunch of different ones, how can they offer the service at a fixed price?

Nothing wrong with MIM parts in revolvers. Not a thing. I dunno why people are so convinced forged is superior, unless it's the appearance.

Yes, I'm aware of the limitation in USPSA. But ballpark on gearing up for it with an 8-shot is $2,000, then I've got a USPSA-only rig, vs 1/2 that for a gun that can shoot both. Plus I've already got a ton of .45 ACP moon clips, de-mooner and holders from a 25-2 I used to own. Eventually I'll likely have both, just not at the moment. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Unless I'm missing something, the 625 is going to have the fastest possible revolver reload in IDPA. Since there's a lot more IDPA than USPSA in my area, and I can't currently justify the cost of a dedicated USPSA rig, I figure 625 can do double duty, at least for a while. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

What's the differences in the two? Is the PC worth the extra money (which doesn't look like much more) Looking at it for IDPA & USPSA. Thanks! Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Az is correct: a bobbed hammer allows a higher grip. I go way high with my stubby fingers. Recoil control improved as your hand gets closer to the bore. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

I'd be especially wary of Harbor Freight stones. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

True, but after flattening one face, you need something to index the flat face against that's 90-degrees to the surface you're flattening on. It serves the same purpose as a jointer fence. You'd have to hold the flat face flat against the "fence". Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

I don't know that I'd use Harbor Freight if you only need one or two. I use these. This company also has great prices and lightening fast shipping: https://www.zoro.com/norton-sharpening-file-sq-ao-orangebrown-med-61463686145/i/G3378112/ Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Another $.02 worth: I've got pretty stubby digits and shoot my S&Ws precision (SA) finger over TG and thumbs locked. Finger over feels natural to me and faster to acquire from the holster. I started using that grip for hunting/silhouette after reading Ross Seyfried many years ago and it works well for me. Locking the weak hand thumb & extending my index finger over the trigger creates a natural tension that gives a very steady hold and good recoil control. For speed, I go the same way but slide the finger below the guard. This also creates a lot of tension and reduces the load on my shooting hand. I run JM grips on a K-frame. I must've missed the memo about them not being for small hands. High & tight does it for me. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Does he need a forged sear? MIM sears are quite a bit less: https://www.gunpartscorp.com/Products/315990.htm Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk