FWSixgunner

Those look good but Midway says discontinued. I'm not very inclined to spend $70-$100 on grips I've never tried.

Like Toolguy said, some appear integral but are actually pinned. Examine the sides of the base closely with a magnifying glass and you might find it. Also research the "dash" of your gun. You can find an online reference on date range of manufacture. Although I've never seen one that included pinned vs integral, I bet it exists somewhere. That would probably be the most reliable way to find out whether it's pinned, short of de-bluing one side of the base. My 24-3, manufactured early 80s, appears solid, but close examination shows a feint, half-circle outline of a pin one one side of the base. Also check out Toolguys forum for a fiber FS.

Leave it to a "ZombieHunter" to notice the topic was risen from the dead:-)

Thanks. Already bought a 568

IIRC, it was a lot more than 2 bottles of magnesium citrate, and that was 2 years ago. It wasn't that bad, but don't wander far from the oval office once you start it! On second thought, maybe it was 2 bottles, but they weren't that small. And my kidneys are fine. I had to have a lower GI about 25 years ago. Now that was intrusive. Barium enema with a balloon to hold it in, for about 45 minutes. No possibility I was ever gonna turn gay after that.

OK, I see we have another "it can't happen" without even an anecdote to support the opinion. BTW, there is such a thing as "little bit pregnant". It's called a tubal pregnancy. Conception occurs, but it does not result in a baby.

I'd recommend starting with something a bit more robust, like an SP101.

LOL! My gun club has an unattended check-in shack just inside the gate. There's always a stack of flyers for CHL training with a banner that is a picture of a young woman holding a Taurus PT-92 as if in prayer, with the front sight against her forehead. I finally couldn't resist and marked on the banner "I hope the first lesson is NEVER to do this!".

Welcome. Yes, there is a wealth of knowledge around here, and friendly people who share it.

[quote name="jhgtyre" post="2054700" The springs cannot affect accuracy otherwise. -ld That statement reads like an un-proven dogma: "Experts say...." therefore, it must true for every gun, load and spring. Have you ever confirmed this with your own testing? I am only saying in this one instance, it did affect accuracy and turned me off to wolf springs, at least for rugers. A consistent flaw in technique still produces a group. The extreme vertical spread of the "groups" would be caused by breaking the wrist or lightening my grip very inconsistenty. Changes in grip pressure with a 2-handed hold would also result in some windage deviation, too, but it didn't. The vertical stringing was so bad, it would have been obvious with the factory spring if I were heeling or breaking my wrist. I'm not defensive about my shooting, I just know what happened with this gun/load/spring and am satisfied that spring weight can affect accuracy. I'm not saying it always will or slamming lighter springs (notice in the OP I'm looking for one.) If anyone can refer me to an exhaustative test of the effects of a lighter spring on accuracy, I will gladly read and reply, but not anymore "it doesn't" or "it can't" statements, and NOT in this thread.

Then feel free to quote from my post when you're on. Do let us know how it works out for you:-)

I have seen several posts recently from people who seem to think that lighter mainsprings can somehow be detrimental to a gun's intrinsic accuracy. It is simply not the case. A primer does not ignite "better" when it is struck harder. It either ignites, or it does not. Now maybe a spring kit could create a mushy trigger and cause an individual shooter to not shoot the gun as well. I guess that could be possible. I did not "think" vertical stringing occurred with lighter mainsprings, I absolutely witnessed it. The load was 21.8 H110 behind a 280 cast GC bullet, WLP primers. This was an exceptionally accurate load from that revolver, and my SA shooting skills with the .44 mag were well above average at the time. Following my standard accuracy testing, each spring got 5 5-shot groups from the bench at 25 yards. Vertical stringing got progressively worse as spring weight was reduced from 14 down to 12 lbs,. A friend was able to visually observe the slower hammer fall. Groups returned to their normal 1.5" average with the factory spring. I suppose it could be attributed to follow through with the extended lock time. But if that were the case, the majority of shots would have landed in "jerkers corner". With the exception of a couple of called fliers, windage was constant while elevation varied dramatically with the lighter springs.

I've searched the forum but can't find a lot of feedback on spring kits. I'm eyeing Jerry Miculek's. I tried a Wolf kit once to reduce the abominable SA pull on a Redhawk and ended up putting the stock spring back in when groups started looking like they were fired from a BAR. This was with WLPs. I guess while on the subject, I haven't bought primers in the past decade (took a hiatus from shooting.) Where can you find Federal small pistol, and is there a "next best"? I've still got a thousand or so CCI 500s. Yes, I know, it's probably the worst possible time to start shopping for Fed primers.

Sorry, I'm still not getting it, so here's a pic of what I have:

Thanks Warren, A couple more dumb questions before I order: Are "pinned" for guns with the cross-pin through the sight base? One of the pictures showed a pin from the muzzle end, which I've never seen on a smith. How do I measure my rear sight to ensure the right height? Is it the height of the blade and depth of the notch? Thanks!

That was it Pat. Muchas gracias!

It appears there's an acceptable bullet throat fit. I'm not sure how you're going to measure the barrel. They're tapered. Smaller at the muzzle end, larger at the forcing cone end. I've never heard of the barrel being tapered, but you can drive a slug from the forcing cone end just up to the rifling to measure FC diameter. You can go a little bit past the FC to get groove diameter on that end, but I have never been able to measure it on an S&W due to the 5-groove rifling. Throats & forcing cone are the critical dimensions for cast revolver bullets. Commercial cast bullets are usually undersized. If they are requiring a little push through the throats, I would be concerned that the throats are too tight. I would next slug the forcing cone as described above. If you've never "slugged" a barrel or chamber before, you drive an oversized pure lead bullet in and measure diameter using a micrometer to at least .001. 50-caliber muzzle-loader bullets would be good for your .45 if you can find some. You really should slug the throats, too. The forcing cone diameter should be smaller than the chamber throats. "Hard" cast commercial bullets are the worst offenders when it comes to leading, because they're too small and too hard. The base won't expand and seal the throat. This would be my prime suspect for the leading in the chamber throat.. As someone mentioned, if the throats are too tight, they can be opened up. I don't see any mention of accuracy. Issues with timing, excessive cylinder play, or, with cast bullets, throat/cone dimensions will cause accuracy to go to pot. If it shoots jacketed bullets OK but not cast, this, again, points to an issue with throat/forcing cone dimensions. Are you getting lead on the butt of the barrel? This would point to timing, especially if it's on one side. Good luck.

What do you expect? They're discussing a gun for shooting zombies!

+1 on the Hogues.

Yes, it is pinned from the side. Do you have a recommended blade for IDPA, or one that is most popular for it?

Are all of your sights still available? Sorry, but the posts are awfully old. I'm looking for a 1/10"-wide partridge for my M-66. Thanks!

I've found some old posts about folks running this holster in IDPA, but nothing recent. I also noticed their web site does not have the "IDPA aproved" stamp next in the details. Anybody currently running this holster?

My action job on my 66-6 went well, but I felt a little roughness at the start, pointing to trigger/CS engagement. So I went back in last night and re-cut a bevel on the CS ledge and the lump on the front of the trigger (very carefully) and polished both to 2500 grit wet-or-dry. On a flat surface, this stuff leaves a finish you could shave with. While inside I removed the bolt & took 3 coils off the spring. I couldn't resist additional polishing on the DA hammer sear, so I slipped a card scraper loaded with more 2500 grit between hammer and sear and worked it a little more. The sear should really be removed so as to follow the contour, but getting it back in with that flimsy spring in place is a pain. So I was lazy. The pull is good, but with an audible click about 1/3 through where there shouldn't be one. I can detect little, if any, change in the pull. It feels like it may be a hair heavier past that point. My first thoughts were the trigger/CS engagement. But in my experience,,the pull gets lighter, not heavier, when the trigger breaks the CS ledge when that's rough. Plus the CS is still down past that point. It was eliminated completely when I cocked the hammer SA. No click. To me, that points to the DA sear, possibly I cut a slight ledge trying to polish it. Thoughts?

Well, what can I tell you, family comes first. Shooting competitions will be around, but the window in which you can prepare your children for adulthood and spend time with them closes extremely fast.. Sorry if this comes across as preachy holier than thou, but here's the lessons I've learned raising kids in two different households (not concurrently.) My last child at home is my 11-yo son, and I love spending time with him. He is crazy into sports: tackle football, flag football, wrestling, basketball, baseball, plus scouts. He played select baseball for two years (fall and spring seasons.) This mean't at least two practices or two games during the week and tournaments on the weekend, which consisted of two games on Saturday and at least one on Sunday, sometimes out of town, sometimes three games in a row on 100-degree days. We discussed it the other night and decided Boy Scouts was too much. He wants to focus on sports and spend more time with his Grandfather, who has cancer and moved in with us last year. Add there's private school tuition. It's all worth every penny and every second. Until my FIL moved in with us, my wife and I attended every single practice and loved it. He has learned discipline, the hard work required for success, leadership, and how to work with others. By the time he graduates HS, I will have spent 35 years raising children. I have two grown daughters who turned out very well, but I regret not spending more time with them when they were young. I was crazy into hunting back then and wish I had made the investment of time and guidance I am now giving my son. We joined a gun club earlier this year. Our first range visit,(the day after we joined) we took a cooler with drinks and snacks. As we sat at the picnic table eating sausage & crackers, I told him how I used to travel with my dad and we would stop at roadside picnic tables and eat lunch the same way. He said "now I'm living the dream with my dad." I think some dust blew in my eyes right then, and I had to blink a few times to get it out:-) Life just doesn't get any better than that! BTW, kids are absolutely fascinated with reloading. One look and they're asking to pull that ar. So to satisfy my competitive urge, I'm taking up IDPA and Service Rifle matches. Neither requires much monetary investment and are local. There's a local IDPA every weekend, mostly Friday nights. If you take the view that your children are "killers of dreams", you will live in unhappy resentment (been there!). My family deserves my best.

My condolences. I know the feeling, we lost my Brittany when my son was 4. He took it very hard. He's 11 now and we have a Blue Lacy who is a perfect dog for us. She's a hoot. Very protective of the family and still playful as a puppy at age 5.