FWSixgunner

That's really nice, I have heard that the Silhouette shooters loved the Dan Wesson barrel set up. Something about the tension on the barrel making them more accurate (better harmonics). Yep, I wish S&W would bring back the 620 and 66-7, with some extra barrel lengths.

They already made me turn off the TV/Radio. But then I heard the old fart on the radio the other day claiming marriages that started with his web site were so much better than with people who meet anywhere else, including church. How freakin arrogant, even if that was something that could be measured.

Are those Herret Shooting Star grips?

Buy a 627 and run both as desired. Does Maryland allow you to own more than one revolver, or classify 8 rounds as a high-cap assault weapon:-)

I had a competition action job done on my 24-3 back in 1985. It was 10 years & over 5k of CCI 300s before I ever heard of hard/soft primers. It's never failed to go bang.

+2 on the parts. I not only dropped the trigger lever, but the hand spring did a, well, hand spring. I was lucky to find it. I can see where the bias against MIM parts comes from. Their appearance doesn't exactly scream quality, but it doesn't matter to me.

Welcome Scott. We'll try not to hold the Massachusetts thing against you:-)

Stacking & staging? You sure that's not a Ruger? The absence of stacking is what I love about S&Ws, or Colts with leaf mainsprings. I'm no engineer, but I don't believe it's possible to eliminate stacking with a coil spring. It's resistance increases with compression. I don't believe in staging for the very reason I like DAs: shooting rapidly, I cannot sneak up on a 5+ lb trigger that travels maybe 1/8" while gripping tightly to control recoil. Staging defeats the whole purpose and causes me to get "chicken-finger". I can perform what Jeff Cooper described as "the nudge" with my old Hi Standard Supermatic Citation, but that's a .22 with a sub-2 pound trigger and no perceptible over-travel.

This is my first time working on a 21st century revolver with the new lockwork. For the most part things are the same, but the trigger surface that contacts the cylinder stop is no longer flat and has that little lump in the middle. Is the lump the only thing that contacts the cylinder stop? On an older model, you'd square & smooth the part and bevel the bottom edge. But what can you do on this one besides simply buff everything?

I've never used plated/coated bullets before so I'm going to try the Bayou 160 RNs and want to use Clays (not Universal). This will be for IDPA SSR so I should need around 800 FPS from a 4" barrel. Also, do I need a taper crimp die for this bullet since there's no crimp groove, or will a gentle roll crimp work? Thanks!

Well, if it helps, it's really decent of you to help him out. I find myself doing similar things for some of my in-laws. That said, it doesn't sound to me like he's ready to change. Is he on some sort of probation and taking drug tests? If this is going to be a long-term deal that you're willing to put up with, have a come-to-jesus about the rules, like no audible texting and no sexting at all in your vehicle. He needs to give you gas money and he needs to adhere to YOUR schedule. So when you say it's time to go, it's time to go, or he can find another ride. You like to listen to the radio, so please keep it quiet. This is not being an a-hole, just asserting your rights and making him change his behaviors. After some experience with addicts I can tell you you cannot make things easy on them. They need tough love or they'll walk all over you. Set boundaries and put responsibility on them, or there is no motivation to change. Let him know your help is contingent on him helping himself. You want to hear a real plan for how he's going to get to work because you're not going to do this forever, and then keep him to it. Or just set a date like "I'm going to help you 3 months, then you're on your own". He is probably not going to do anything unless forced. And no BS like "my girlfriend's uncle was going to give her his car but his ex-wife stole it.". Too bad. Maybe the best thing for him is to lose his job and hit rock bottom before he is ready to change. Anyway, if all that makes you feel uncomfortable, maybe you should just tell him you can't do it anymore.

You're still wet behind the ears (I'm 54). Be grateful that big prostate. It doesn't stop growing until you stop breathing

I checked out the Scotch Brite wheels and they do look pricey, which means my parts will be safer:-)

I just watched the Jerry Miculek "Trigger Job" video and have a multitude of questions. Most concern whether the techniques, tools, etc are applicable to MIM parts since the video is pre-MIM. I have worked on my own revolvers in the past and know my way around K through N frames. Please, unless you have worked MIM and Forged and can speak objectively about one vs the other, can we keep things debate free? Opinions on MIM parts run strong and it seems few of them are based on actual experience. I haven't seen that on this forum, which is why I'm posting here. That said: 1.) Most of the work in the video is done with a Norton Fine India stone. Is this the proper tool for MIM? Does anyone know (approximately) what the grit of this stone is, as compared wet-or-dry silicone carbide sandpaper? I keep a large supply of wet-or-dry on hand up to 2500 grit for honing tools and was wondering if this could be used for light smoothing following stoning. 2.) Jerry mentions polishing on a buffing wheel to further smooth parts. Has anyone done this? What wheel material, size, speed, and rouge do you recommend? Again, is this applicable to MIM parts? 3.) Jerry mentions flash-chroming to harden parts and achieve an even better surface after smoothing. Has anyone tried this? How were your results? Would it be applicable to MIM? Thanks and any insights will be much appreciated.

Thanks for the tips. I ordered a trio of Comp IIIs from Midway today and a Wilderness Instructor belt.

Does Blade Tech make carriers any more? I can't find any in their site. Midway lists them but status says discontinued.

Sorry, searched but couldn't find it: I'm gearing up on a budget but don't want to buy junk, so I'm trying to go minimal on SLs & holders. I never would've thought SL holders would be the most expensive piece. The much-lauded North mountains are $35 each. That's $105 if I need 3! Will the Jet SL fit the same holder as Comp Iii? I'll be running an S&W M-66. Also, am I reading the rule correctly that weak-side SLs must be behind the hip bone? Does that mean where the pelvis protrudes in the front (on skinny people, at least) or behind the love handles? If it's the latter, it makes no sense, if you can have 2 in front of the holster. Oh, sorry, that's three questions disguised as one:-)

Ah perfect! Clays is what I want to use. I have an unopened lb from when I loaded 7/8 oz 12 gauge. Yes it is super clean! For some reason Clays gets slammed as a pistol powder on other forums. I wonder if the detractors have ever tried it.

What discipline are you referring to where you need to make minor? I thought IDPA SSR was 125, pretty easy to do with 158s in .38 spl.Tanks for the Bayou referral, the bullets look perfect and they're very responsive to my questions.

I can probably count on my fingers and toes (and yes, I have normal amounts of each) how many rounds I've shot indoors. Some of my guns haver never tasted copper. So I'm looking for suggestions for an inexpensive plated or FMJ for IDPA revolver as most matches are indoor. I looked at Berrys on Midway, but a lot of reviews indicate variances in diameter. Many thanks.

No. Even if it were possible, you'd be into that GP100 for well over $1200. I've long thought Ruger could and should make a 7-round GP+. What kinda revo do you want to shoot? A stock 4" GP100 with some action work is fine for IDPA SSR..

Ha, it's going to be cheaper to sell it & buy a 4", even though selling handguns is a royal PITA!

Thought I'd jump in this thread with a question: what division(s) would the 6" GP100 be legal in? I just bought a 6" SW 66 thinking to compete in Idpa Ssr, then read today 4" is the limit in Ssr. The only other option in my safe is a 4" 24-3 Thankd