Alphamikefoxtrot

The adjustment bar is in the right position, as it checked 500 or so perfectly before it started doing this. It is almost all the way out actually. The tip of the bar that pushes up on the blue part is going in behind the tip of the blue bar that it is supposed to be contacting.

When I forst got my 1050 i bought it with the powder check die. I never could get it adjusted correctly so i put it in the drawer. Well I decided the other day that I would run an entire case of MG124's so that I would have a pile of open loads ready and waiting, so I threw the powder checker back on. It used to work, i guess, once it was dialed in. Now it is just too lazy to make the full stroke and doesn't check anything. See the vide for a better explanation.

I still do the one eye thing. I have several moments in a match when I realize that I have both open and that I can see a whole lot more, but it is usually at the expense of a sight picture. I have done extensive dryfire and practice with both open and as soon as that buzzer goes off in a match, there goes ole lefty, straight back to sleep. Do what is natural for you. Both open s better, but not necessary.

I know guys who will only shoot 165's. it is a snappier feeling recoil impulse for sure, but the sights do tend to jump back on target if you can handle the gun. Keep them for practice rounds.

Be sure and go with the silent captured buffer spring.

sounds like a swaro to me.

I use folgers cans all over the place in my reloading room. Sams sized ones for rifle brass, regular gallon sized ones for pistol brass storage and for all brass in various stages of my cleaning process. And the small ones 3.5dia 5" tall for bringing loose rounds to matches. They are very sturdy and have good sealable lids. I prefer community coffee but buy folgers for their cans.

You will see an advantage by going to an optic with a better reticle than the tac30. The center dot is 2.4 moa iirc. I always had trouble on shots over 250-300 with that reticle. I went to the bushnell elite 1-6.5 and not only is the magnification a plus, but the reticle made tons of difference. It is a bit cheaper and lighter than the vortex 1-6. I think it compares very favorably with the swaro, as long as you keep in mind that the bushnell is 1400 or so cheaper.

I have never removed my comp and I have never cleaned it. I only have about 10,000 rounds through mine though. Still just as good on accuracy as the day it was born. Bedell titanium comp and a Scheumann barrel What is your load? Leading/carbon in the barrel maybe?

The 6x is the only thing holding you back from winning every match you enter. Go for it!

I put empty cases in them as they come out of my wet tumbling system.

I recently built a maten from their matched nickel boron set. Really awesome.

Yet another reason to use the STM wet tumbling method. I found a few of those when I used to use a dry tumbler. I'm sure that I shot some too. Never had a squib.

Those loads that you listed are for long loaded (STI mag length) rounds. I would start really low. like 6.0 and work up slowly checking for pressure signs.

I bet your pocketbook can... :-) I don't keep up with reloading costs. I also do woodworking and the best advise I ever got was, " use sandpaper like someone else is paying for it". I use the same philosophy with reloading. Use what feels the best. Availability and price are distant 2nd and 3rd on the list of importance.

You are talking about 250 for a slide, 250 for a Schumann barrel, 150 for sights, 80 for another aftec, 50 for a guide rod, reverse plug and springs 800 or so in parts plus labor. 1500 ain't far off

Don't ask. Get the 1050 and never look back.

Any time you are doing something out of the ordinary, let the RO know. Other than that, if you did it without saying anything, would he say something? I guess he might have an issue with your finger in the trigger guard, but that would only be if he doesn't know the rules.

My buddy uses a race master for his.

I use unique and n320 for minor. I honestly can't tell the difference.

I load h335 in my 1050 and with it being such a small ball powder I have no issues. I also have a load for TAC but they are my accuracy loads and I load them on a single stage to make sure everything is dead on.

I'm with flex, don't worry about lightening an already light weight slide.

It's really hard to get a drop in kit for a 1911. The frames are all just so different.

Just buy a new mag.

I have to disagree with parts of your statement. Different powders are going to feel different for a given power factor. I have plenty of loads with a larger volume of powder that feel softer than others with a lower volume of powder. There is plenty of advantage in tailoring your loads to your particular recoil tastes. I started out liking a slower, softer recoil and since I learned to watch my sights and call shots, I tend to gravitate towards a sharper, quick recoil that seems to keep the sights on target better. With 40, in USPSA. I think that N320 is going to be the most common powder. That statement is based upon research that I did a few years ago when I was setting up my limited gun and working up loads. To the OP- there certainly isn't a magic bullet/load. Pick one that you like and shoot 10k of them. Then the other guys will think that YOU have the magic bullet.