Alphamikefoxtrot

Good looking gun there. 9mm or 40? you never know these days with 3 gun becoming so popular.

Yes, mine is happening with my finger riding the trigger guard. It also has doubled twice in the same situation. In run and gun it's great and has never given me problems. I used to run a rock river nm 2 stage and it just wasn't fast enough. I like the speed of this one and I know that it isn't the best practice and that there are probably those out there that may never fail, but I love this trigger so much that I can deal with it acting up when I am sighting it in. If it starts acting up in matches I will have to consider other options.

I have two Spartans. One in 45 and one in 9. I have had front strap checkering, trigger jobs, a custom super skinny front sight, magwells, ambi safeties, and nitro bond coatings on both. Even with all of that I am under 1k and they both run, are accurate, and look great. I would recommend them wholeheartedly.

I called geiselle today about MY issue which sounds similar to the op's and they told me that when slow firing and when I am not moving my trigger finger from the point in the pull where the hammer falls the first time, the trigger is resetting and falling again before the bolt is back in battery. Basically that it is bump firing but faster than bump firing where the hammer falls once the bolt is forward and goes bang. I explained to them that when shooting from bags, for precision, I ride my finger along the trigger guard and break the shot as gingerly as possible. They said that was the issue. Break the shot and pull to the rear, or take my finger off. Quit leaving it in exactly the same place.

Sorry, didn't mean to hijack, but it seems like we are having the same issues. I will let the OP respond to your question himself. If my issue is the hammer riding the bolt down, how do I fix that and what is causing it?

I am having both issues. I simply attributed the doubling to bump firing. I still think that is the issue with the doubles. The trigger will not reset if you push it forward. You have to pull the charging handle back an inch or two to cock the hammer and then it will fire.

Dan, I can't argue with what you are saying. I have had the double situation happen before with this trigger. I thought that I was making a clean pull but you are presenting circumstances that have happened before and I can't help but think that you may be absolutely right. I will let you know after further testing.

Following through??? Meaning not bringing the trigger all the way to the rear? Why would I need to? I am taking my finger off the trigger between shots, so it has the opportunity to go all the way forward.

Gentlemen - Here is my solution for drying my brass. A few tosses in a towel, then into my custom brass dryer. It has two drawers with two compartments per drawer. An hour or so in cold weather and my brass is ready to load. I hot weather, even less. If I could only get my helper to load instead of just supervise!

I have posted my slightly anal brass perp routine before but here goes again. 1- separate brass by caliber 2-wet tumble and during drying process, I separate brass and nickel 3- run clean cases through press, deprimimg, sizing, and swaging 4- load. When I am in a hurry, I have skipped the first tumble and just run the sorted cases through the press and wet table only once. That way probably makes the most sense, but as I said, I am slightly anal. That moment when I open the wet tumbler after the second tumble and the brass (including primer pockets) looks like golden treasure takes me back to childhood Christmas mornings.

Boxer- Why not decap and resize your dirty brass, then as tumble and load? It seems like you have way too many tumbles in there.

Gas holes were lined up under the gas block. Bolt carrier wouldn't slide down on the bolt when I performed the test mentioned above. Key is properly staked and firmly mounted. Gas tube retaining pin in the gas block was there and firmly mounted with the hole in the gas tube facing the right direction. I am really miffed now.

Yes, I built it. This is my fourth build. The others were flawless. I will check the gas system again after dinner. I didn't leave a gap at the gas block. I will remove it and see what the gas ring looks like. the bolt only has 20 or so rounds on it. I can;t believe that parts could be worn out yet. Those rounds were the Hornady factory zombie rounds. I also tried some handloads and they did the same thing.

I like mine. The eyebox isn't an issue for me.

Benny- Don't you build the benelli factory 3-gun models?

I will step up and show some love for the Accurate Iron M2. I shot mine for the first time this past weekend and It was flawless. If I was as fast as it, I would be on top of the world.

Benny- How do you get it to 8.5lbs? I built one with a mega upper and lower. Jp light contour barrel, carbon fiber hg, Jp light bolt and a prs. I am at 10 lbs q/o optic. I know the prs is heavy but really only a lb heavier than a skeleton stock. Where are you shaving the other 8oz?

I would swap the JP gas block for a syrac and the comp to a SJC.

Don't know why it hasn't been mentioned before more often, but N-230 should be your first and last answer to this question. It is even good with scrambled eggs.

Depends upon which one you are talking about. Most are, but some are made in both configurations.

Hits on paper don't matter. Go fast so the video looks awesome and you get your "hits" on YouTube. And don't worry about the little stuff. It can be fixed in post.

These groups that y'all are talking about are stupid. 4" at 10 yards??? That should be a 1-1.5" group. And 2 shots in a 2-3" group? 2 shots ain't a group and a 2-3" group isn't anything to be crowing about until you are at or over 25 yards. Glocks are notoriously hard to be accurate with, but it should do way better than that. Of you are going to stick with that platform ( which I don't suggest) stop practicing everything and learn to hit what you aiming at in slow fire. There is no point in having a .5 draw if you don't hit the target. You can't miss fast enough to win.

I would not deal with palmetto right now. They are very busy and are having trouble keeping up with demand. Too many stories of zero communication and lost orders. Mine included. If you think they are all the same go look on YouTube at what all is involved in machining a simple forged receiver. There is only slightly less machining involved with a forged receiver as opposed to a full billet receiver.

Gary does build a great gun. He is also amazingly fast. I'm not sure that even he is fast enough to build guns as fast as Brandon flip flops divisions though. Keep trying Brandon, I'm sure it was only the guns holding you back the last two-three times that you tried open.

It's difficult to go from a bad gun to a good gun then back to a bad gun again. Even a tricked out glock is still a glock. No amount of guide rods or magwells is going to make it a CZ or an STI.