kneelingatlas

I'm interested in this, any updates? I'm running an RL1050 with a P/W drive to load 9 major and thinking about making my own index arm which starts turning the shell plate sooner since my rounds are so short. Obviously just buying a longer one would be much easier

The new CZ promo video for the Shadow 2, features a sweet slow mo flip/catch at the end https://m.facebook.com/story.php?story_fbid=1221526074544249&id=1085752781454913&_rdr

At the 0:58 muzzle flip comparison it looks like it's stroked?!? I love the slow mo flip and catch at the end

I use Loctite #271 for comps. To disassemble I wait until dinner comes out of the oven, put the barrel/comp in and crank it up to 500, as soon as it hits that temp I pull it out by the barrel with oven mitts on, clamp it in the vise by the comp and back out the barrel by hand.

Wipe it down and apply more motor oil

On scales: if you drop a charge, weigh it, adjust, repeat you will become frustrated quickly and spend a lot of time chasing your tail. Here's what I do: when I put powder in the hopper, I remove the failsafe rod, hold a short cup under the powder funnel and manually cycle 15-20 charges; I then dump that powder back in the hopper and manually drop ten charges, weigh, adjust, repeat. Once you're getting a ten round average of charges you increase the effectiveness of your scale tenfold and mitigate the effects of any inconsistencies. I used an RCBS beam scale and it works great. In regards to reloading presses: I learned to reload on a friend's 550, bought my own 650 and recently picked up a used autodrive 1050; if I didn't have 3 1/2 years reloading experience I think I would be lost with a 1050. Dillon machines hold their value very well, so trading up is relatively cheap. Whatever you choose I recommend you find a local reloading mentor. You can offer to trade components for reloading lessons and offer chrank the handle for both of you. The most important thing is trade value for value, don't think you're entitled to instruction, but at the same time don't assume you have nothing to offer

How much did it cost to ship?

Tok, the disco rotates around the trigger bar as the DA shot breaks, if the inside corner is square the pull weight stacks up as it binds on the trigger bar.

Excellent work!

Is the tip of this index arm on my RL 1050 worn to the point it should be replaced? The index is a little rough and is knocking over bullets. Also Dillon only has a part number for the assembly, I guess that means I can't just replace the tip right?

The V12 GT is a special animal, so even someone with 40 Open experience on a 2011 is going to have little to tell you you don't already know. When it comes to a 40 GT you're the expert! While I imagine 38 V12 shoot flatter to one degree or another I know from experience it's not "soft" by any stretch of the imagination and the difference in feel will likely be small. So if you're going to make the switch to 38 I suggest you build a custom with a better comp and fewer holes.

#1 25-26 rounds in a big stick vs 29-30 #2 minimum bullet weight for major is 112gr, but the lightest available in 40 is 135gr, they cost more and aren't as accurate. The real question is: what's drawing you to 40? Do you want to make major with factory ammo? If so stick to Limited.

I've never shot a 40 Open gun, but what I know about Open guns I can't imagine a reason to get the 40 over a 38.

That's great stuff TJART! You should re post it in the tuning thread

Awesome! Thank you

The website has one in Spanish, but not English, only super 1050.

Looks good, how does it shoot?

I don't think it can be said it's objectivity better or worse to add seven ounces to your Open gun because the extra weight may do something different for your shooting than mine. I started Open at the other end of the spectrum from you: a CZ TS I turned into an Open gun, tipping the scales at 54oz empty. Your G17 probably weighs less than 40oz, am I right? For me, draws and transitions are much faster with a gun in the 42oz range. Balance is also important, a big steel comp may help the gun shoot flatter, but it also transitions like a turd on a stick; I prefer Ti or aluminum comps. Before you spend the money on a steel grip I suggest you shoot a steel gripped Open gun for a stage, a Limited gun is a different animal altogether.

No, I have no idea why the 9mm has it and the 40 doesn't, it doesn't even allow the barrel to pull out the front of the slide like a 1911 reverse plug.

How about some Gans style flats?

CHA-LEE taught me it's best to take equal amounts of weight from the front and rear of the slide: Real testing and feedback on Slide Lightening This was the first slide I ever had cut up, 1.8oz all from the front: I felt it increased the muzzle flip, later I did this one with weight taken from the front and rear which turned out much better:

On a frame mounted application, the battery is sandwiched between the optic and the mount, the switch is digital so if you lose contact with the battery even for a split second you lose the dot and have to scroll back up through the brightness settings. The biggest issue for me was that the body of the optic is right where the dot used to be; I imagine if I came from an upright slide ride I would have loved it (smaller body and lower glass), but I started Open with a horizontal slide ride and don't even notice the body off to the left.

I tried one, then went back to the horizontal slide ride: It looked cool and saved weight, but it was enough to make up for the smaller glass and the dot higher off the bore. Plus mine would turn off randomly.

I'm overdue for some experimentation on the spring weights.